michaelmaxim

I have an LQ4 setup with the GoatBuilt accessory drive brackets and relocation kit for the PS pump in my Jeep. During a recent test drive after having the Jeep tuned the belt came off the motor at around 6200 RPM. I noticed while it was idling in the garage the tensioner was bouncing up and down just at idle, which looked weird to me. I never paid much attention to it bouncing around but it didn't look right. Every other tensioner on any other motor I've seen stays pretty stationary at idle and while revving the motor for the most part.

Is there a lipped idler pulley that I can use in place of the tensioner pulley to keep the belt tracking straight? Or should I be focused on the tensioner not having or keeping enough tension on the belt under load? Maybe swap the tensioner out to one that's more stiff? I don't know... any input would be helpful.

It just seems to me that the section of belt from the alternator to the bottom of the crank is really long and it's flopping the tensioner around more than it should. When there is tension on the belt, it's as tight as it should be. Maybe even a little too tight. Could it being too tight cause this?

I'm using this setup.

michaelmaxim

Or does anyone know of a manual style tensioner for the setup shown above? I can't find one that will work for these style of automatic tensioners...

jeffs55chevy

im not familiar with goatbuilt, but if you have i.d. and o.d. of the pulley i can see what i can find through napa. but i dont believe theres many smooth pulleys that have lips on them. but it does sound like the tensioner has a weak spring.

33willys

iTrader: (1)

The crank pulley, power steering and alternator all have lips which SHOULD keep the belt from coming off. If the tensioner is bouncing around something is causing it. First, are the number of ribs on the belt the same as on the ribbed accessories? Does the alt, power steering pump, tensioner or idler have a "flat spot" where it hangs a little causing the belt to tighten/loosen a little thereby causing the tensioner to jump? When putting the belt on do you have to use a wrench to unload the tensioner?

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Sounds like a bad tensioner to me, but that does look like an awful long part of the belt between the alternator and crank so that may have something to do with it. Katech sells a manual tensioner that works great on my car, but I have F body accessories, so not sure it would work with what you have.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

If you can put the alt down on the lower left you can get rid of the tensioner and the idler if you get a ewp.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Your pic doesn't say much.
If the accessories are supported in triangulation, (support brackets) they should be unable to bend forward. A lot of aftermarket setups lack this. If they have bend happening, the belt will walk forward. A lip on idler and tensioner shouldn't have to be there. But, the farther away from the engine, the more they will bend.

michaelmaxim

Here is a quick Youtube video of the tensioner moving around just at idle. The motor has a cam in it and you can see it moving up and down as the cam lopes. When I give it throttle it bounces all over the place. All my alignments are correct and the belt isn't showing signs of wear.

G Atsma

That is not an abnormal amount of movement. If it is a concern, there is a chance this tensioner might be getting weak, and it's an easy fix.

michaelmaxim

I bought a new Dayco tensioner last night. I'm going to toss it on the Jeep tonight and see if it makes a difference. If it still throws a belt with the new tensioner then I'm not sure what else to look for. Everything seems aligns. No wear marks on the pulleys or the belt. I'm at a loss.

G Atsma

How old is the belt? Even if not showing signs of wear, some of the cords inside might be fractured, causing to creep around

michaelmaxim

Brand new. It's only been on the Jeep for a day.

G Atsma

Oh alright. Let's see if the tensioner solves it!

michaelmaxim

here is the new tensioner installed. The belt looks fine. It’s still has too much movement in my opinion. What do you guys think?

G Atsma

The only concern I would have is whether or not the belt comes off again. You said it came off at about 6200RPM. Was that steady speed or accelerating?

michaelmaxim

It's come off 3 times total. Once was at 6200 RPM on the initial test drive. Then two times just farting around my neighborhood at 2500-3000 RPM just cruising in 2nd gear. I was coming to the stop sign when I noticed I lost power steering as this big bitch doesn't turn at all without the hydro-assist pump pushing these 200 lb tires.

Floader

iTrader: (32)

Talking out my *** here, but thats a long length of belt between the crank and the alt. Maybe putting another idler in just before the tensioner would help?

michaelmaxim

I just bought this bracket kit which comes with everything and this style tensioner to see if this will fix it. I also bought the belt that they recommended to use with their kit. We shall see...

http://www.ictbillet.com/5-3l-ls-tur...or-ls3-wp.html

G Atsma

All that does is put the tensioner where your idler was. Not sure there will be improvement.

michaelmaxim

It uses the OEM truck style tensioner which is a lot more stiff than the one that is used with my Goat Built brackets. The one that I have now uses a Jeep tensioner from a Jeep Wrangler 00-06 4.0 and the arm is a lot longer. I think the shorter style gives more resistance to the belt.