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iTrader: (1)

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iTrader: (1)

Started first try, still waiting to get my driveshaft back from being shortened and its time for a test drive.

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iTrader: (1)

Installed 42lb injectors and tomorrow I have tune and dyno time finally. It will be 80 degrees here in NC the rest of the weekend. Finally gonna get some driving time in. When I look back almost a year how much I didn't know about an LS swap all I can say is thanks to all of you guys for the knowledge I have picked up on this site and to Brendan at Lt1swap for the great wiring info.

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iTrader: (1)

One last quick update. I searched forever and kept hearing that the cheap 4th gen F body headers fit the 4th gen Nova's so that what I initially used. They fit like crap and interfered with everything except the front bumper. When I backed my car off of the trailer at the tuners the exhaust drug terribly. Just replaced them with Speed Engineering swap headers and they fit PERFECT! so easy to slip in and bolt on and tuck tight to the floors well above the subframe rails. http://www.speed-engineering.com/ls-...2-ls3-ls6.html

G Atsma

Internet wisdom strikes again....

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iTrader: (1)

Yeah I was so interested in saving $100.00 that the "it fit but I had to bend them with a pipe and beat them with a hammer" part didn't sink in until I was bending mine with a pipe and beating them with a hammer. The speed Engineering set has so much clearance. I installed the drivers side is 15-20 minutes.

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iTrader: (1)

Its funny when you add HP other issues come to the forefront. With the new engine if I tried to launch the car anything above half throttle it would drive the pinion up into the rear floor. So last weekend was out with the 41 year old springs new leaf springs and Caltrac bars. That's fixed now and it rides amazing. What's next?

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I have a few hundred miles on the 6.0 and I LOVE IT!!! I have so much more power and crisp throttle response. The overdrive and cruise is sweet on the highway. Way more HP than the 255R tires can hold but so fun to drive.

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I forgot to mention I changed out the truck alternator/PS bracket for ICT Billet and hydro dipped my intake, inlet tube and valve covers. It needed a little color but not too much.

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

Looks good! What numbers did you put down?

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413 at the tire. Its a blast to drive but I'm looking at ways to get a little more tire under the rear. I have inboard shocks and an 8.8 narrowed, It shouldn't be too hard.

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I carried her back to the tuner today for a little touchup on the tune. Im in love with this thing. Runs like a scalded dog and a new car at the same time.

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I've been driving it all over and love the swap. Its like having a new car. I have a couple of issues to deal with. 1st I have to change my stat, I went with a 160 degree and I'm running 165 to 170 on a 99 degree day with the AC on. I'm thinking the engine needs a little more heat in it. Not a bad problem to have. 2nd I have Speed Engineering long tubes with their X pipe kit but Summit oval mufflers and tail pipes. I have a NASTY drone at 55-60. Other than that is sounds amazing, especially at full throttle. I keep reading about the Borla mufflers not droning. What does everybody recommend to have a deep throaty sound but less or no drone?

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iTrader: (1)

So after much research I made the change to Borla XS Pros. What a difference. From cheap turbos I am about a third quieter and absolutely no drone. I had a nasty raspy mid range note during gear changes and that's gone. One unexpected advantage was going from a turbo style to a straight through well made muffler is I can feel more HP in the seat of my pants. I definitely have to feather the throttle more through first and second to keep the car straight.

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iTrader: (1)

I went and drove a local Christmas parade today and noticed one the way home under decent acceleration I'm hearing a squeal or something like that in any gear or in neutral. I jacked it up and looked at anything under the rear and found nothing loose. It seems to be coming from under the front seat area. ?? LQ4 with a newly built 4L65E just over 400 miles on the build. I had to get home and park it because it was starting to rain. I hope to drive tomorrow and hear better what's happening.

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Well its still a blast to drive. I hooked my AC back up over the summer and installed a new evaporator, condenser, lines and compressor. I have good cold AC but it seems to lug the engine down idling. At times on a good hot day it will not idle at a stoplight with the AC on at all. Any ideas what could be changed in the tune? I'm running the factory ECM but my tuner tuned it in closed loop.... so is it not compensating for the AC?

Pulse_GTO

iTrader: (2)

I'm wondering if you are letting the computer know that the A/C is on so that it can compensate. Do you have the following hooked up:

A/C request signal (+12V) going to the computer? I believe this is C2 (Red) pin 17. This +12V could come from the cycling switch on the accumulator.
A/C low pressure switch? This should go to C2 (Red) pin 55. If you do not have a low pressure switch you could just ground this pin.
A/C clutch relay control? This should go to C2 (Red) pin 43.

I believe if you hook up these wires to the PCM then the computer would know when the A/C is on and can compensate in the tune for the load the compressor puts on the engine at idle and add the needed airflow to keep it from stalling. Your tuner may also need to change the tune in the A/C section, Type fitted, to Analog.

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iTrader: (1)

no, this was my first swap and I blindly went by internet directions to rework my factory harness. All of those pins you mention were on the list to delete. My ac is connected to my factory dash control directly to the compressor and then the ground runs to a low pressure switch. The ecm controls my fans and I added a relay to start the fans with the compressor on. So. If I go back and replace those pins the compressor will be controlled by the ecm as well as the cooling fans?. I'm on my phone at the moment and will have to sketch it out. Or is there a diagram available somewhere?. Thanks for the detailed reply.

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I just drove her again and noticed that when the engine is cold it will drop RPM when the AC is switched on but catch back and run, As soon as it gets to temp its hard to even keep it running with the AC on.

Pulse_GTO

iTrader: (2)

I would think maybe a diagram from a 2001 Yukon? I'm sure it would be the same for a 2001 Tahoe or Silverado.
I believe that if you make those connections to the PCM that it will control the compressor and the fan. The PCM can only control FAN #2 for the A/C, so make sure you have that wired up as well. Is the PCM currently controlling the fans in regards to coolant temp? If so, just make sure that FAN #2, also know as high speed fan C2 (Red) pin 33, is connected to a relay that controls that fan. Once all this is done, you can take it to your tuner and have him change the following in HP Tuners:

- System>Fans>Hardware>Fan Type>2 Fans
- System>A/C>Hardware>Recirculation Fitted>Fan #2
- System>A/C>Hardware>Type Fitted>Analog (If this setting does not work try Analog Cycling)

Then make sure that the enable and disable pressures are also set in the tune, the values for F-Body and 04 GTO are:

- System>Fans>Fan 2 (Second Stage)>Enable AC Press>248 psi
- System>Fans>Fan 2 (Second Stage)>Disable AC Press>208 psi

Once the wiring and tune changes above are complete and tested to work, then your tuner can adjust the idle tables for A/C. Maybe see if he or she can also hook up some A/C gauges and monitor the high side to see if the fan comes on and off when commanded. If they do not have any they can be had at Harbor Freight for around $60, don't forget they often have a 20% off coupon.

Good luck and keep us posted!