LS1 TJ

That's what I did. Just removed wires, labeling them then once you get the Jeep engine and trans out decide which ones can go or stay. My TJ was just a base 4 cylinder 5 speed. No AC. I kept the start wires to the starter. Oil pressure sender wire. Trimmed back and taped up all the Jeep fuel injection wires. Left all the head light, horn front harness as is. My LS harness from Howell has the wire to alternator so the stock Jeep wires can go.
I kept the Jeep PCM to run whatever it needs to run. I mounted the LS PCM on the shelf under the brake booster.
For the start run 12 volt signal I tapped into a fuse in the fuse block. I did wire it thru a relay to the LS PCM.

vooduchikn

I guess that is the plan then. I will label the main harness runs and then delete them all the way up to the harness connector and pull the pin as well for the things I don't need and then run a stand alone harness/PCM for the GM stuff. I wish it were easier but it is what it is. Thanks!

vooduchikn

Having some serious indecision now that is cam selection time. I have been indecisive between 212/218 or 216/220 113 or 114 LSA. I want low end and to keep my stall stock or as close to that as I can,. My gut tells me 212/218 low lift but since it is a 6.0 (LQ4) I think I can get away with 216/220 and the stock stall without sacrificing any torque and get some benifits if I do get the motor spinning hard.

The semi-sane part of me says that its a 6.0 going in 4500ish pound vehicle and no cam is needed - but it's on the stand, crank pulley, valve and timing covers removed and just begging for it.

Any inputs or suggestions would be welcome - I have read too much at this point and have thoroughly confused myself....

LS1 TJ

I'm no cam expert but I think the second cam and 114 LSA would be fine. Run your combo by the folks on the cam forum here and see what they think. Also get their opinion on the lift I don't think a higher lift will hurt low end torque. Either cam should have plenty of vacuum for brakes.

vooduchikn

I have a thread going over in the GENIII internal section. Will see what comes out of it... I am ready to order a cam now, but will be patient to see if I can nail this down better.

TJ/LS3

Did you purchase the motor mounts yet? I had Novaks and didn't like the way the motor sat. Too close to the firewall, despite following instructions to a tee! Got Daves Customs mounts and am very happy. Mine is a 97 and I had to bring the mounts forward an inch or so. Now it sits perfectly and my headers actually clear. With the Novak mounts, the headers would not clear. The headers are Sanderson brand, matched for the LS3. I'm getting ready for the exhaust fun. I'll follow your build!

vooduchikn

I haven't purchased the motor mounts yet and now I am glad I have been delinquent in doing so. What was the specific issue with the Novak Mounts? Did you use headers from Novak or source your own?

I have seen Daves mounts before and they look like a quality product. Do they have an offset to the passenger side like the Novak Mounts do?

Do you have a build thread on here?

TJ/LS3

The Novaks were too close to the firewall. The Daves customs mounts sit farther to the passenger side than the Novaks do. The headers were from Sanderson, I don't recall if I bought them through Novak or from Sanderson directly. I'm just getting back to work on this project. Still have things to buy, like the transfer case shifters from AA. The ones they sent are for a T/C that sits farther back than mine. My build is on here.

Afowles

Great write up, I have a similar set up and was thinking about buying a stock tj for the Jeep side wiring and other bits and pieces. Is this a waste of money? I'm new to swaps and not sure if I would be better off buying the parts I need as I move through the build. What are your thoughts?

LS1 TJ

When I did my LS swap Novak mounts weren't available. I just kind of moved the LS back until it was close to the firewall on the passenger side. Maybe 1/2" clearance. I used typical 1 3/4" block hugger headers.2.5" tubes. Brought the left side tube around the front of the oil pan. Then a merge with the passenger side tube and 3" all the way back to the bumper. The Jeep side wiring has not impacted how the Jeep has run. Totally reliable after more than 10 years.

If I would do it again and wanted a totally custom TJ I would scrap all the stock wiring and use a Painless type chassis wiring kit. It would really clean up the engine bay wiring. Kind of depends if you want air bags to work other stuff that come with the stock wiring.

vooduchikn

I am actually thinking about selling everything I have ready for the swap and going at this later. Not because the swap is going to be too difficult, but because I have decided to go back to school (already started) and I just will not have the time until I am done (14 more months). Not to mention college is very expensive ($250 dollar book - shameful!). college and family are absolutely killing any free time I have, but that is okay because there is a reward at the end of it all.

I am at the point that the only thing needed are the specific adapters (tranny/tcase, motor, mount, radiator) and the parts I do have are not just jeep swap specific work. Maybe someone who needs a tow motor or wants a 6.0 for a race motor may take it when I post it up. The other option is to put the motor in layup and wait until I am done and then go at it then. Here is what I have acquired and built thus far.

2004 LQ4 – ~100K on the motor
Painted with POR-15 engine kit (aluminum finish).
317 heads
Trail Blazer SS intake with 36lbs injectors, 90mm (gold blade) drive by wire intake. New gaskets.
Texas Speed CAM Specs are: 212/218 114 LSA .550 lift with LS6 (blue) springs
New cam cover plate/gasket.
Holley high clearance oil pan with cooler block off plate.
New intake/oil pan, timing set, and water pump gaskets.
Holley high mount A/C relocation bracket kit (truck spacing) with brand new R4 A/C compressor (gets A/C compressor up out of headers and control arm bracketry)
Coil pack relocation brackets (allows use of shorter plug wires)
Novak/Sanderson near center dump headers – Silver ceramic coated.
4x4 4L80e wiring harness (unmolested –no broken connectors)
ECM (green/blue) factory (not reprogrammed)
4L80E flex plate
New Crank bolt
Valve covers, Timing Cover and accessories brackets primed and powder coated “textured black”
TAC, harness and pedal (for drive by wire)
Transmission: 1998 4x4 4l80e (parallel cooling lines, not horizontal), stock stall. Donor truck had 125k. Was going to rebuild during the conversion output shaft swap but this transmission still has plenty life in it and shifted fine if you wanted to mate it up to a 205 or other compatible xfer case and roll.

The crank pulley is still removed (new bolt included) in the event a different cam is desired.

Spare/Additional parts :
3 Additional complete intakes (all throttle bodies are DBW):
1. Stock truck intake and 85mm throttle body and injectors (fuel return on rail)
2. Stock truck intake and 85mm throttle body and injectors (return-less)
3. Dorman truck intake (the oem purple unicorn) and 85mm throttle body and injectors and gasket set (return less)
4l60E flex plate
OEM take out stock truck cam and springs from cam swap.
OEM truck oil pan – has cooler block off plate and low oil sensor block off.
OEM A/C compressor and brackets
OEM power steering pump. Was planning to use PSC but this pump/pulley works.
Stock flex fan
2 spare water pumps.
2 extra belt tensioners
4 extra coil packs
Holley high mount Alternator/Power steering pump kit truck depth kit (spacer only).
NV-241C transfer case and adapter (was mounted to the 4L80E)
Engine stand it is on.
Roll on the ground shorty LS engine stands –great for drivetrain mockup.
Take apart AC DELCO 2 ton rolling hoist in excellent condition.

Afowles

Yes, I keep going back and forth, Im looking to do a 70/30 rig/ trailer queen. Like I said I'm new to this and trying to also learn, but at the same time I'm not sure I want 18+ year old parts. Hopefully I'll figure it out. Thank you for the reply