5.3L in a 89' Caprice 9C1
06-20-2008, 10:40 AM
#41
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I just used a Stock 1998 Trans Am Engine (Oil Pan), Harness, and ECM. We notched the engine crossmember, and the rest basically dropped right in. (I have since added a $7.97 "Home Depot" Cold Air Intake so I am waiting to take it to the track to see if it helped or hurt me. I would like to improve on my 12.7 @ 104 from last year.)
09-19-2008, 11:28 PM
#42
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I'm gonna bump this up to see what's been happening, but I want to ask a question too.
I was looking at the 98 connector pinouts on your site, and saw you had the Delphi part #'s for the C100 and other connectors, but cannot find them to save my life, for sale new.............got a bone you can throw me?
I was looking at the 98 connector pinouts on your site, and saw you had the Delphi part #'s for the C100 and other connectors, but cannot find them to save my life, for sale new.............got a bone you can throw me?
09-20-2008, 06:15 PM
#44
I'm gonna bump this up to see what's been happening, but I want to ask a question too.
I was looking at the 98 connector pinouts on your site, and saw you had the Delphi part #'s for the C100 and other connectors, but cannot find them to save my life, for sale new.............got a bone you can throw me?
I was looking at the 98 connector pinouts on your site, and saw you had the Delphi part #'s for the C100 and other connectors, but cannot find them to save my life, for sale new.............got a bone you can throw me?
As for the connectors, I've had luck with
www.mouser.com and
www.waytekwire.com
www.powerandsignal.com
These are distributor's of delphi's parts. Waytek & Power and Signal usually sell in bulk, sometimes you can find a small quantity. Mouser will offer in lower volumes, but don't have as much cataloged. I get obd2 ports and such from mouser, come out to about $1.30 for a complete OBD2 port.
And of course, here is the Delphi connectors catalog page. here you can get detailed drawings of connectors, parts that go along with connectors, etc. you can't order directly from Delphi.
http://connectors2.delphi.com/DCSGDMCS/HomePage.aspx
Good luck, hope this helps.
09-27-2008, 12:44 AM
#45
I got the headers done tonight to run NA on. When I first got this running I stole the headers from my 67 pickup, so I've now made another set. This will highlight how I made them..
1979-93 Mustang Fox body 5.0 aftermarket headers, $100 from ebay.
GM LSx exhaust flanges, pn# 12480130 $22 each (dealer cost)
Started by cutting off the stock ford flange, as close to flange as possible, sawsall works great for this. The stock ford header tubes are smashed sort of rectangle UP & Down to fit the ford head. LSx's are more rectangle Side to Side, so the ports need worked with to make them fit better, and flow better. This is accomplished by heating the ends of the tubes red hot, and using some sort of round object to open things back up. I used a cut off peice of sway bar from a mid 80's pickup, its about 1" 1/8 or so. I ground the end to be kind of a wedge to help get into the tubes. Then I could flair out the end of the tubes by heating red, and prying with the peice of sway bar.
Flanges are tack welded in place for now to make sure no interfearance between the collector and side of the block, frame etc. Will bend to where I want them, then will finish welding inside & outside and grind smooth inside.
Tomorrow I should be driving the caprice again. Its been too long.
modified sway bar, used to expand ports on headers
some of other common tools needed to do this, vice to hold the header helps too.
This is the stock ford tube, inside new flanges...
...and after expanding the tubes...
check out how thick these GM flanges are!! GM Part# 12480130
1979-93 Mustang Fox body 5.0 aftermarket headers, $100 from ebay.
GM LSx exhaust flanges, pn# 12480130 $22 each (dealer cost)
Started by cutting off the stock ford flange, as close to flange as possible, sawsall works great for this. The stock ford header tubes are smashed sort of rectangle UP & Down to fit the ford head. LSx's are more rectangle Side to Side, so the ports need worked with to make them fit better, and flow better. This is accomplished by heating the ends of the tubes red hot, and using some sort of round object to open things back up. I used a cut off peice of sway bar from a mid 80's pickup, its about 1" 1/8 or so. I ground the end to be kind of a wedge to help get into the tubes. Then I could flair out the end of the tubes by heating red, and prying with the peice of sway bar.
Flanges are tack welded in place for now to make sure no interfearance between the collector and side of the block, frame etc. Will bend to where I want them, then will finish welding inside & outside and grind smooth inside.
Tomorrow I should be driving the caprice again. Its been too long.
modified sway bar, used to expand ports on headers
some of other common tools needed to do this, vice to hold the header helps too.
This is the stock ford tube, inside new flanges...
...and after expanding the tubes...
check out how thick these GM flanges are!! GM Part# 12480130
Last edited by busta9876; 11-29-2008 at 09:39 PM.
09-27-2008, 12:57 AM
#47
You going to keep the 4L60E with the turbo install??? i've got a 4L60E but its out of a 1995 Camaro, not as strong as the newer ones. I picked up a 4L80E I'm going to rebuild. Little more expensive, but should hold up. I like the closer 1st & 2nd gear ratio on the 4L80E. I'll throw in some 4.11 or 4.56's with a spool when I get the overdrive in there. 3.42's will have to do for now.
09-27-2008, 01:14 AM
#48
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I was going to get a 4L80E way back when....but then I decided I was not going to do anything, and leave the LT1 in there. Then I changed my mind again, and put the engine in, and was going to slap on some F-body headers. Then I changed my mind again and decided to turbo it. LOL.
I am going to grenade the rear end before anything, so I will worry about the trans after that. HAHAHAHAHA.
I am going to grenade the rear end before anything, so I will worry about the trans after that. HAHAHAHAHA.
09-28-2008, 10:38 PM
#49
Well I drove the Caprice today. Got it running about midnight Saturday and decided to wait untill daylight to go drive it. Now all I need is exhaust and I'll be rolling.
attached are some underhood pics, still need to finish covering the heater box after removing the A/C evaporator. I've got a air intake tube on it now also.
attached are some underhood pics, still need to finish covering the heater box after removing the A/C evaporator. I've got a air intake tube on it now also.
09-28-2008, 10:50 PM
#50
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Awesome man!! I see you made your upper radiator mount like I did for the LT1. Works great. Now clean up that engine bay, and have fun driving!!
*EDIT* Headers look like they fit good.
*EDIT* Headers look like they fit good.
10-05-2008, 10:35 PM
#52
Well I've been driving the Caprice all weekend, got some exhaust on it Friday night and it sounds great. I put some Flowtech Terminator Mufflers on it, headers, 2.5 inch pipe. Very deep rumble, low & loud. Very different from my 67 pickup 5.3L with the Thrush welded muflers, which are loud & raspy sounding.
Only a few loose ends on the caprice, including getting the electric fan mounted, and wiring from the PCM to control the relay. I am going to see if I can make the 4000 pulse/mile signal generator on my 89 caprice work with the PCM as a speed signal input. It tries to idel too low after driving for a while, almost seems like it wants to die. Also got to get cruise control working, diagnostic port mounted, and finding the stock 89's check engine light wire under the dash.
Game plan is drive the Caprice untill I get my 1990 Cavalier Z24 swap done. I'm putting a 3800 supercharged v6 with the 5speed trans. As soon as this is done (I have all parts, only got to get it done) Caprice will be back in the shop for the turbo install. I still need to find a waste gate & blow off valve, and some plumbing for intercooler, throttle body.
Only a few loose ends on the caprice, including getting the electric fan mounted, and wiring from the PCM to control the relay. I am going to see if I can make the 4000 pulse/mile signal generator on my 89 caprice work with the PCM as a speed signal input. It tries to idel too low after driving for a while, almost seems like it wants to die. Also got to get cruise control working, diagnostic port mounted, and finding the stock 89's check engine light wire under the dash.
Game plan is drive the Caprice untill I get my 1990 Cavalier Z24 swap done. I'm putting a 3800 supercharged v6 with the 5speed trans. As soon as this is done (I have all parts, only got to get it done) Caprice will be back in the shop for the turbo install. I still need to find a waste gate & blow off valve, and some plumbing for intercooler, throttle body.
10-15-2008, 05:20 PM
#54
it pulls great all way up to 6000, rev limiter is very weird, it fuel cuts, then uses the drive by wire to limit RPM. I think its because it see 0 MPH, thinks it is free reving. I need to get the speed sensor hooked up.
Here's the problem with that
Most of the 80's gm's with electric cruise & cable speedos, use an optical sensor for a speed signal. Something like a infrared led emits a beam onto a reflector on the speedo cable, and it counts the revolutions. The output from this sensor is a 2 pulse per revolution square wave signal.
PCM needs SIN wave signal. So i'm trying to find a source for a 4 pulse SIN wave sensor that will screw into the 5/8 threads of my speedo drive on the TH400. www.jagsthatrun.com have one, but they want like $90 for it.
I will keep you all updated when I figure out my speed sensor issues.
Here's the problem with that
Most of the 80's gm's with electric cruise & cable speedos, use an optical sensor for a speed signal. Something like a infrared led emits a beam onto a reflector on the speedo cable, and it counts the revolutions. The output from this sensor is a 2 pulse per revolution square wave signal.
PCM needs SIN wave signal. So i'm trying to find a source for a 4 pulse SIN wave sensor that will screw into the 5/8 threads of my speedo drive on the TH400. www.jagsthatrun.com have one, but they want like $90 for it.
I will keep you all updated when I figure out my speed sensor issues.
01-17-2009, 04:42 PM
#55
Well thought I'd post an update on this project....
I've been daily driving the caprice now since my last post. I'm actually pulling off close to 20 miles per gallon in it, worse when I feel like having some fun in it. Still no turbo on it, however I have gotten some more parts.
I got everything to relocate battery to the trunk. I also have everything to redo the fuel system. I am running an intake Walbro pump, Aeromotive 13109 bypass regulator. The regulator will be in the back, with a short return line, and one single fuel line to the front. I got a new intake with the stainless steel rails and single inlet fuel line. I have a set of 62 lb hour injectors, might be a bit big at first, I've also got a set of 'flex fuel' injectors....I've also got a Innovate wide band o2 controller and sensor new in the box. now need to find a nice weekend where I'm not working on other peoples wiring harnesses and get to work.
I'm kind of at a cross roads for what to do for the computer side of things.
1. I have a Megasquirt II assembled ready to go on whatever I want. Megasquirt is nice because of its 'on the fly' tuning features and support for boost. No real downside, other then lack of electronic trans support if I go with the 4L80E down the road.
2. I have a friend that wants to sell me his HP Tuners fairly cheap. I know HP Tuners has very good speed density operating systems to run with boost. Downside is no real time tuning. However it does seem to have good data logging features.
3. I could purchase a RoadRunner real time tuning PCM from moates, I already have the CATS OBD2 and a few definitions. But downside here is speed density operating system. I just don't know much about boost tuning using MAF or stock operating system.
so after I make this decision I'm going to move forward with the turbo install. Anyone have any suggestions on any of the three approaches?
I've been daily driving the caprice now since my last post. I'm actually pulling off close to 20 miles per gallon in it, worse when I feel like having some fun in it. Still no turbo on it, however I have gotten some more parts.
I got everything to relocate battery to the trunk. I also have everything to redo the fuel system. I am running an intake Walbro pump, Aeromotive 13109 bypass regulator. The regulator will be in the back, with a short return line, and one single fuel line to the front. I got a new intake with the stainless steel rails and single inlet fuel line. I have a set of 62 lb hour injectors, might be a bit big at first, I've also got a set of 'flex fuel' injectors....I've also got a Innovate wide band o2 controller and sensor new in the box. now need to find a nice weekend where I'm not working on other peoples wiring harnesses and get to work.
I'm kind of at a cross roads for what to do for the computer side of things.
1. I have a Megasquirt II assembled ready to go on whatever I want. Megasquirt is nice because of its 'on the fly' tuning features and support for boost. No real downside, other then lack of electronic trans support if I go with the 4L80E down the road.
2. I have a friend that wants to sell me his HP Tuners fairly cheap. I know HP Tuners has very good speed density operating systems to run with boost. Downside is no real time tuning. However it does seem to have good data logging features.
3. I could purchase a RoadRunner real time tuning PCM from moates, I already have the CATS OBD2 and a few definitions. But downside here is speed density operating system. I just don't know much about boost tuning using MAF or stock operating system.
so after I make this decision I'm going to move forward with the turbo install. Anyone have any suggestions on any of the three approaches?
03-22-2009, 10:52 PM
#56
well making some progress on this beast.
Battery is relocated in the trunk now. Fuel system parts from Summit should be here Tuesday. These include all the AN fittings to plumb in a A1000 fuel pressure regulator, and connect to the fuel rail. stainless braided fuel line for supply and return. I got a box of silicone hoses in last week and t-clamps. Fiberglass header wrap is ordered along with some stainless zip ties to hold the wrap on. I ordered a new MAF. I plan to run the stock ECU with a MAF and go until I max out the MAF.
This weekend the fuel system should be completed. I'm still driving this every day to work, so I'm trying to get one step at a time done during the weekend.
I'll get some more pictures this weekend and get them posted.
Battery is relocated in the trunk now. Fuel system parts from Summit should be here Tuesday. These include all the AN fittings to plumb in a A1000 fuel pressure regulator, and connect to the fuel rail. stainless braided fuel line for supply and return. I got a box of silicone hoses in last week and t-clamps. Fiberglass header wrap is ordered along with some stainless zip ties to hold the wrap on. I ordered a new MAF. I plan to run the stock ECU with a MAF and go until I max out the MAF.
This weekend the fuel system should be completed. I'm still driving this every day to work, so I'm trying to get one step at a time done during the weekend.
I'll get some more pictures this weekend and get them posted.
01-26-2010, 01:43 PM
#59
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i'm new to the thread and recently have been thinkin about doin a similar motor swap in my car...i want to know what all is needed to complete this task...any input would be greatly appreciated.car is a 1990 chevy caprice 5.7 350tbi
