stock rx7 verts are actually pretty stiff ( not as stiff as the s2000 but its up there at the time), i m gonna say its stiffer than the 94 t-top camaro that i had, at least it feels like it

simply a rollbar should do the trick

 

They are steel fittings that consist of a male to male union in the middle, with special inserts and tube nuts that connect to the union. All that is needed is a square cut on the tubing that the insert slips over. When the nut is tightened it compresses the insert which grabs the outside of the tube to create a seal. Once the outside of the tube is grabbed it pushes it against the flare of the union and creates a seal there. The work great and eliminate the need to to flare the tube.

Andrew

 

As stated, the RX7s were pretty good when it came to chassis stiffness. This isn't going to be some hardcore track car, so it should be fine.

Andrew

 

Sweet! You get these at Summit or Jegs? True Value? Ace?

 

Project, could you pm me about your rear axles i am doing a LS1 swap into my S2000 and i have contacted the driveshaft shop and i was going to do the same as you but with the 33 spline honda hubs. just wondering what you paid verses what they want to charge me and if you like the outcome, im am also using the ford 8.8 rear end im in the process of mounting it up now the motor and tranny are already in. But i could use a little guidance on the whole fuel line thing and clutch line and some diff mount questions.

Thanks Jason

 

I get the fittings from my local industrial hydraulic supply store.

I managed to make a little more progress yesterday and today. This is the first car that I have done with power steering. Both of my previous FCs were converted over to a manual rack. However for this build, the customer wanted to keep the power steering. So I got on the V8RX7forum forum to see what issues I might be facing. It seems that the stock LS1 power steering pumps flow too much volume than what is required by the RX7 rack. There was also a couple of methods to deal with the problem. One method is to cut the pressure relief spring. The other method is to get a new orifice fitting from Turn One.

I chose to do the latter. Here is what the fitting looks like:



This is the orifice in the stock fitting:



Compared to the orifice size of the new fittings provided by Turn One:



The orifice opening is much smaller and as a result flow less volume to the rack. I know there is much debate as to what method works best and whatnot. This solution seems very simple, inexpensive, and straight forward.

Next up on the list was the rest of the fuel system. The fuel pressure regulator was mounted on the shock tower. This allowed for simple routing of the fuel lines. Once again braided stainless teflon hose is used. Instead of the crimp style fittings, these lines use reusable fittings since they look a little better, in my opinion.



Next up was finishing up the heater hoses. I found perfectly molded hoses with the correct bends that come off the fittings on the firewall. From there I used a hose union and some heat shrink hose clamps to mate with the rest of the hoses that run to the engine.



The lines were routed along the frame rail and attached to the water pump. In this picture you can also see where the engine wiring harness enter the passenger compartment. Routing the engine harness this way allows the ECU to be located where the stock Mazda ECU sits in the foot well.



Getting close!

Andrew

 

PM sent.

Andrew

 

So how much is the cobra rear end going to set you back all in all? Now that I've got my swap on the road I seem to constantly be worrying about my T2 rear end leaving me strandand.

 

I raced my car with a TII rear end for a long time. You just have to be careful. On street tires a TII will last a long time as long as you don't let it wheels hop.

As for doing a Cobra rear end, the costs are very well documented in the various threads on the V8RX7forum. The DriveShaft shop now offers billet hubs and massive outer CVs for FCs. When you combine that with their billet inner Cobra stub axles and 300M bar, you will have a virtually indestructible setup. The axles alone will set you back around $2200. So work it from there.

There are also various less expensive options that make compromises somewhere in the chain between the driveshaft and rear tires.

Andrew

 

what did you use as far as the connection to the T56 from the clutch master where it connects to the tranny case (the little brass fitting) and are you running a fuel return line back to the tank.part#'s would also be great on like the fuel regulator and fittings. sorry for all the questions but i have messed mostly with imports not to much with the LS1 but thats why im putting it in a S2000

 

Just use the corvette fpr/filter with the GM quick disconnect fuel fittings at the filter and at the rail. The rest of the fuel systems connectors are dependent on your specific swap.

I couldent help you with the clutch line I just used the custom clutch line and MC from hinson, which would prob work for your setup too.

http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/s-609...ydraulics.aspx

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ng-solved.html

Once you get the conversion fittiing you can use easy to get and relatively cheap brake lines

Andrew - aren't you done with that car yet?

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ng-solved.html

does anybody know the part number for that fitting on the left with the 90 deg. on it

 

How are you sure that fitting will fit on the S2000 master cylinder? Do you know the bore size of the S2000 MC? Will that MC work with any of the LSx clutches?

Andrew

 

It's weekends only from here on out :/

Andrew

 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Produc...+line&deptId=0

On this setup I am using an Aeromotive FPR with a return line to the tank. There are other options, such as using the Corvette filter/regulator combo that gets mounted by the tank with a short return line to the tank.

Andrew

 

Badass conversion!!! Lookin good! Keep up the good work!

 

im not sure im just needing a 90 deg fitting to go into the T56 with a male end on it to help clear the tranny tunnel. i can then have a clutch line made to screw into my MC. but i would think that my MC would be sufficeint but im no expert thats why im asking

 

Progress? Good stuff.