Coolant Line to Tb
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2007
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Coolant Line to Tb Car: 98 240sx w/ 02 LS1 T-56 installed by XAT (terrible) and fixed by Redstar Performance (amazing)
The issue I am listing here is one I came across the other day that I didn't have knowledge of beforehand:
Here is my issue: somewhere along the way the coolant line to my throttle body (passenger's side) was removed (not bypassed to driver's side like it should have been if done properly) and the coolant inlet (pass side) was capped with a rubber round cap.
The driver's side of the throttle body is still connected to the coolant air bleed line (like it should be stock) so to me it looks like half of the job of a throttle body coolant bypass has been done.
The cap burst the other day shooting coolant under my hood, and I have since replaced the cap and its holding. But, I need to figure out where the coolant supply line came from on the radiator and get it rerouted back to the tb so I can either put it back to stock or bypass.
What do yall think? The radiator is a koyo by the way.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
The issue I am listing here is one I came across the other day that I didn't have knowledge of beforehand:
Here is my issue: somewhere along the way the coolant line to my throttle body (passenger's side) was removed (not bypassed to driver's side like it should have been if done properly) and the coolant inlet (pass side) was capped with a rubber round cap.
The driver's side of the throttle body is still connected to the coolant air bleed line (like it should be stock) so to me it looks like half of the job of a throttle body coolant bypass has been done.
The cap burst the other day shooting coolant under my hood, and I have since replaced the cap and its holding. But, I need to figure out where the coolant supply line came from on the radiator and get it rerouted back to the tb so I can either put it back to stock or bypass.
What do yall think? The radiator is a koyo by the way.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 48
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I dont have one right now, but its basically like this http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...e_tb_enter.jpg but there is no coolant line into the the tb and the cap looks like this http://www.installuniversity.com/ins..._enter_cap.jpg
There isn't a coolant line even present...
There isn't a coolant line even present...
It needs to connect to the pressurized cooling system. You can either add a fitting to the radiator, or put a fitting in your radiator hose or a heater hose (Jagsthatrun has these fittings) or drill and tap to put a fitting in your water pump. If you do a search on coolant steam vent or coolant bypass you will find many threads on the subject.
Pat
Pat
Yea, it sounds like you have a line running from the block/head area steam vent to the throttle body, and it's just capped at the throttle body. That is not good. You need to run the line from the capped side of the throttle body, back into the cooling system.
The only problem is, I don't know for sure where you want to put it in the cooling system. This might help though:
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-1...-34-47112.aspx
I think guys use fittings like this to plumb it back into the large coolant hose that goes to the radiator, but I am not 100% sure. A fitting like this might be a good start though.
The only problem is, I don't know for sure where you want to put it in the cooling system. This might help though:
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-1...-34-47112.aspx
I think guys use fittings like this to plumb it back into the large coolant hose that goes to the radiator, but I am not 100% sure. A fitting like this might be a good start though.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2007
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I think i got it figured out, the GM radiator has two bungs on top under the radiator cap, one for overflow tank, the other for the tb, and the 240 radiator only has one...So i need to get another bung welded in...
You might be able to tee the one bung. It might not look as nice as two bungs, but it would probably get the job done just the same.
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Carefull... if the one bung is right under the Radiator cap, you shoud not use that one, It is open to the outside and recovery tank once the cap reaches it opening pressure. It need to be connected to the pressuse side.. many have made that mistake before.
Are you planning on keeping the TB inline of the head steam vent or going to bypass the TB ?.. either way, it need to be connected to the pressure side.
Are you planning on keeping the TB inline of the head steam vent or going to bypass the TB ?.. either way, it need to be connected to the pressure side.
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Instead of messing with the radiator, do what was suggested above. Drill and tap the top of the water pump, and run the line to it. Alot of us conversion guys are running this setup with no issues. I run my 63 Chevy II this way, and have had zero cooling or leaking issues.
Jack
Jack
Here you go. I used a 1/8" NPT fitting. Use a Q size tap drill bit, .332 inches. Then use the 1/8" NPT tap. NPT gets wider as you thread it in, so don't try to put it in too tight or you risk cracking the pump housing. It is somewhat thin. Mine has been on there for 3 years now and almost 10 k miles without problem.
I have also seen someone drill and tap the front of the pump housing.
Pat
I have also seen someone drill and tap the front of the pump housing.
Pat
Some people run these LS Engines without that whole setup on them, they just cap it as the top of the Heads. These aren't like LT1's..the cool just like a SBC and I've seen them run without issues when that Head Venting setup(or whatever you want to call it) is removed.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2007
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Got it welded yesterday and put back together...no DEX COOL...Prestone Green Stuff after full flush..
Runs great! Thanks for answering the questions and to miro for putting up with all of mine!
Pics
http://picasaweb.google.com/Andrew67...62171100875810
http://picasaweb.google.com/Andrew67...62176972263698
http://picasaweb.google.com/Andrew67...62183108671042
Runs great! Thanks for answering the questions and to miro for putting up with all of mine!
Pics
http://picasaweb.google.com/Andrew67...62171100875810
http://picasaweb.google.com/Andrew67...62176972263698
http://picasaweb.google.com/Andrew67...62183108671042
Glad you both got a solution that works for you. I forgot to mention for those who might drill and tap the water pump on the motor. To keep shavings from getting into the system I put grease on my drill bit and tap to capture the residue. I also had the shop vac sucking air out of the water pump outlet while I was drilling.
Pat
Pat
Last edited by Stu Cool; Jun 26, 2009 at 10:17 AM.
