SWEET! i see you went with the matching wheel color too | ( i had that option on one of the tires on my car

so ,,, where's the build thread? ( you should know the drill by now : 1- get camera 2- get photobucket account 3- get car 4- begin posting EVERYTHING

as for the crank sensor , i'm using the stock one , it reads off the flywheel and the sensor is located somewhere at the 3 or 9 oclock position if i recall correctly between the engine and trans.

 

i cant wait to see it finished

 

1dirtyZ, am not familiar w/ the 996 rear engine/trans unibody platform. Are there any areas that you feel need framing or strengthening in order to handle the future power that you are planning on? I only have experience w/ front engine/trans, rear diff, unibody & front engine rear transaxle unibody builds; each having rear wheel drive. Have no experience w/ rear engine/rear transaxle unibody builds & am asking out of curiosity. Thanks

 

i gotta 85 911 that i was thinking about putting a ls1 in it but backed out of it. i dont know whos making mounts for a 996 or are you getting them custom milled? i hope this works out but one problem with this hybrid is the transmission. i know for this car you can get a beefd up tranny but they arent a street type of tranny. this car is probably costing you a fortune i hope everything works out. go porsche 996 ss i love the idea i just wish the car was more beefd up and extended about a foot then it would be a bad *** mother ******. hit me up if you have any questions about this hybrid.
-knox

 

lS1-450 ,
Putting my hotrodder hat on and looking at it , it seems pretty beefy as is . and when i put my engineering hat on i can see that this thing is well built being a unibody car. and after looking at more than a few highly modified ones you rarely see any major bracing done to the car (except for roll cages ) .

thats for the chassis , but for the drivetrain i think the weak link will be either the clutch or the axles . i was thinking the that the clutch would go out first but after seeing a buddy on mine in his 996tt do several 4k + rpm launches from a standstill on his stock clutch i started thinking that the clutch is not as weak as i thought it might be

Rammajammatide, the mounts i have are just some plates with holes in them welded to bushings, by no means fancy at all its so easy even a caveman can do it

if it were up to me , i would redo the rearmost mounts where they would use the factory porsche mounts and save me the hassel of welding the bushing plates/ mounts.


as for updates, not much going on since i was busy with the whole racing thing .

i did try out the porsche gas pedal and its a no go it just doesn't have enough travel - it moves the throttle body about 1/3 of the way only.

so i'll be ordering the pedal soon and and have the cable made locally to the length needed.

furthermore, i did bend the aluminum sheets that will be used as upper heat shields, as well as the ones to be used for the alternator and A/C compressor. also sent the injectors in to be cleaned and should have them back today.

i should start getting back into it this week ,

i should have the intake all cleaned up and installed along with the injectors and rails.
also should start putting the dash and berace back in , which should be a fun process

 

1DirtZ

Dude, wheres the pics.........? Your thread is one of three I always look for. Keep up the good work.

Jim

 

soooon ,,,,,,
got tied up a bit here but consider it the calm before the storm

i'm almost done with the hardest part of the camaro's electrical crap and should be all down hill from now


i already ordered the lokar pedal which means i don't have to do anything to the dash brace ( build a bracket for the cable or other stuff like that) , so that will go in next . i also got the power steering pump in today , so i should be fooling with that too.

 

you should buy my LSA i have for sale on here. lol....fits the car!!!

 

I'd say that gear box housing flex is the weak point in the drivetrain, followed by the axles. Have heard of gear box internals failing due to housing flex on high torque Porsche builds. However, all were front engine/rear transaxles. Would think that the same could occur on a rear/rear build, just never heard of one failing. There's a company somewhere that makes a re-enforcement plate that eliminates the issue. Of course, my comments a$$ume that there is good enough traction to transmit the torque through the transmission.


...Interesting to hear, regarding the chassis strength.

 

The 996/997 chassis are rigamortis stiff-

G96's don't flex. 9ff uses a variant of the g96 in their 1000 hp car. Beef'd up synchro's, gears, LSD, billet main shaft, and then chryo everything. The case on any 911 after '87 (g50 and up) can take an LS motor. 911's are WAY overbuilt from the factory (suspension, beefy drivetrain, 22 gal tank, OEM dry sump). It just sucks dropping 6g's on a used gearbox,$3500 diff and a $3800 triple tilton clutch before 911 F/I.
Keep doin what you're doin Dirty. Progress is coming along.

 

Who said that the chassis wasn't stiff? I asked a question & it was already answered by the person of whom it was asked. BTW, I have seen two 996's with stress cracks, in the paint, from body flex.

In regards to the trans., it seems as though rear engine rear trans set ups don't have the same weak casing issues as do a front engine/rear transaxle mount. Don't know why. Maybe it's the close proximity of the engine to the trans &/or maybe the bell housing connection to the trans is over a larger area. Maybe it's the beefier housing. Dirty will find the weak link once forced induction is added. No-one has suggested that Dirty do anything other than what he has been doing.

 

thats a very well engineered masterpiece bro keep this thread alive

porsche+chevy= porschevy

tell me does your camaro have allergies from water!!

see ya this weekend bro and dont forget to wash your car

 

looooool yassrey it seems it has a strange reaction to when i wash it : it brakes !

 

time for a minor update:

i made a set of upper heatshields to seperate the coils and top of the engine from the heat generated from the mufflers right underneath it , its basically a bent sheet of aluminum with notches cut into it to clear the plug wires:



and here is how they look on the car (before notching) :



also got the caddilac CTS power steering pump in , but for some reason when i bolted it on the engine it was sticking out about 3 grooves out ( serpentine belt grooves ), so i got a hold of a '08 caprice pump ( we still get these over here, thery're the holden veresion) and stood them next to each other and still the same result,,,,, only difference is the CTS pump is mounted on a bracket and theCaprice bolts right to the head , so we'll see how that goes when i get back to it

i also got the ls6 intake cleaned and prettied up
almost looks like new !



and i got the injectors back in from cleaning, these are green top ford units ( i think they are 43lbs /hr IIRC) , so i'll be slapping those on the stock rails i have somewhere here and then bolting them up to the intake. that and bolt up the lokar throttle cable bracket

meanwhile , i did bolt up my sexy black 90 mm throttle to the intake to see how it looks in the car :





and might i add it looks sexy

seriously , i had to do so to double check throttle elbow/ intake clearance ; i was worried that the latch assembly would be too close to the throttle body so i installed it and put the engine cover back on , and luckily i have enough room

(sorry for the crappy pic)




furthermore, i also started on making a new radiator hose on the pass. side of the compartment , the one i have now is 1.75" and is somewhat in the way of the intercooler hose route ( in the future) and is rubbing on the engine mount plate bolts. so i decided to make a 1.5" tube that snakes away from all that and is a better fit in the compartment, plus it standardizes the hose sizes in the engine compartment . i also installed the steam vent tubes on the engine ; i used two stem vent tubes one for the back and the other for the front. i did that because the engine sits so flat i was concerend that under acceleration i might get some steam pockets at the rear of the engine , so this was a little added insurance .


moving on ,,, i finally got the dash brace all in what a pain in the a$$ ! i keep reminding myself how much easier this project would have been if this was a manual car to begin with , but oh well ,,,





i didn't install the actual dash cause i was still debaiting and thinking about the pedal issue . like i mentioned before, i ordered the lockar pedal and i got it in , its a bit smaller than what i anticipated , but not by much. however after getting it in and seeing and thinking of how to mount it i came up with the following conclusions: i could either build a bracket to mount it in the stock location and have it sit a tad higher than the stock location and loose the TPS sensor signal ,,,,, orrrrr ,,,, just use the stock one!

how you ask after seeing it and seeing how messed up those germans made that pedal assembly , well to make my life easier and others who might be doing the same project in the future i decided to use the stock pedal assembly and just install it like it was before and with the sensor connceted and all that , but the only diffference is that i would drill the top of the pedal horizontally and place a long through bolt that whould would act as the mounting location for the cable end ( think of the bolt going across your toes when your foot is on the pedal ) , the cable would be held in place with a bracket in on the trans tunnel or under the dash and the wire that moves exits it to the pedal , the closest i could think of is a gokart pedal assembly. the cable would mount on the right side of the pedal and close tot he tunnel , which should make it out of the way of my foot

another benifit is that i can change the pedal ratio just by relocating where the bolt goes in on the side of the pedal ( the higher up the pedal i mount it , the more travel i get , and the lower the less travel i get


that sums it up for now , like i said , its a bit slow since i'm putting more effort into the camaro now that the season is ramping up, but i will be working on this nontheless

so next up :

finish as much as i can with the interior , which means :
-throttle pedal and cable
-install dash
-hook up master cylinder and fill clutch hydraulics up
-center console and seats

then there is the rear of the car :

-install intake , fuel lines, and throttle and other related stuff
-start building the mini engine compartment harness
-install the standalone harness and mount the PCM
-finalize coolant system ( still have to route the puke tank hose and the steam vents into the puke tank )

 

So your looking for seats

.
.
.


You know what you have to do boy "squeal like a pig"

~ Deliverance banjo music in the background ~


hehehehehe

 

Looking great Dirty.

 

amazing work

 

that is not a LS6 intake. Looks like a LS3 intake, because the map sensor is up front and that is a 90mm TB opening.

Did you look at the ports on the intake? If it is a LS3 it will not match up to the catherdal ports on your heads. I can see in the pics of the motor you still have catherdal ports.

 

Makes my ls1 swap look like a walk in tha park! You, sir, have ambition!

 

small update, he says, haha.

at the rate you go, it sounds like we may only get one more update? maybe 2?

cant wait to see this thing running.