Standalone harness
The fact that an aftermarket company makes it doesn't make it perform any better however, they can make it fit your application better physically and without extra wires that aren't being used.
Aftermarket harnesses are generally easier to install and figure out since everything is labeled and it comes with instructions, whereas with a stock harness, you have to figure everything out. But everything is basically a one-off plug, so even that isn't very difficult. The difficulty arises when trying to figure out which wires are needed and which aren't and which ones need to be adapted to the car the harness is going into.
I know on an LT1 harness, there are only a few wires that connect the harness to the car.
12v hot all the time
12v with ignition
VSS signal - to speedo
PNP signal - to park/reverse switch
Tach wire - to tach
Oil pressure wire - to gauge
Water temp wire - to gauge
Ground - to ground
Fan signal - to fan relay
Fuel pump signal - to fuel pump relay
The rest either go to a sensor on the engine/tranny, to a plug into the pcm, or to the ODBII diagnostic port.
If you take time to study and familiarize yourself with a schematic, which you really should do if you are swapping an efi engine, the rest is just work.
Basically what you're paying for in an aftermarket harness is the labor and materials to build it, not a performance upgrade.
www.ls1wiringharness.com Sometimes he does e-bay auctions his store name is fuelinjectionconnection
I'm going to mount the PCM on the inside of the car and run the loom through the firewall.
It's actually not that bad.
This is what I removed
some of the interior harness and the engine bay harness

I'll post pics of the other stuff I pulled out tomorrow.
Last edited by SScam68; Mar 31, 2010 at 10:34 PM.
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