what is this?
From what I have seen the LS PCM sends a 12V POSITIVE signal to the FP Relay, everything else is gounds like mentioned above.
Here is a good pic for the Fans..
And for a Manual Fan Switch to control low/high..
Here is a good pic for the Fans..
And for a Manual Fan Switch to control low/high..
Wtf "call the police." fans still wont come on. the autometer guage thats attachedto the passenger head read over 210 degrees. Fan #1 and #2 were wired per instructions of the vendor. i drove my vehicle basically all day sunday and placed a blanket on the nose of the vehicle. this is how i was able to geet the temps higher that 210 degrees. no luck. fans did not budge. maybe its time for a dyno tune or manuallly wire fans to a external switch."call the police." any other siggestion ls1 tech fam?
pocket, i dont know what that diagrams is. its way to complicated for me. here is my version of relay set up. this setup applies to lsx swaps. like i said b4 this si my version. hope this helps out. lsx swaps pcm sends a ground(-) current to all acc. except for the fuel pump. the pcm send hot(+) current for the fuel pump. ex.
relay setup
#30w fuse-battery(+)
#87-to ACC.(+):
must ground (-) ACC. to complete circuit/make turn on.
#86-from/to pcm(-)
#86-from/to pcm(-)
#85-ground to frame(-)
relay setup
#30w fuse-battery(+)
#87-to ACC.(+):
must ground (-) ACC. to complete circuit/make turn on.
#86-from/to pcm(-)
#86-from/to pcm(-)
#85-ground to frame(-)
This doesnt look like it's going to trigger a relay either...86 or 85 needs to be a + and the other needs to be the ground trigger from the PCM. Polarity doesn't matter but one has to be + and one - to trigger the relay. You can either loop the power directly from the #30 or run a separate keyed power to 86 or 85 if you only want the fans to be able to come on when the key is on.
relays my bad MeanYellowZ. lets try this again #85 is also hot(+) lead. if anyone would know, it would be you MeanYeallowZ. also some of us are looking for more of your posts. you know you have a fan base. i admire the work you do.
#30 w/fuse-to batt (+)
#87-to ACC (+):
must Ground(-) to complete circuit:come on
#85-to hot(+) source
#86-to pcm(-):pcm sends ground sig.
#30 w/fuse-to batt (+)
#87-to ACC (+):
must Ground(-) to complete circuit:come on
#85-to hot(+) source
#86-to pcm(-):pcm sends ground sig.
Last edited by dec010974; Mar 15, 2010 at 11:51 PM. Reason: corrections
scanner also on wed. im gonna see what the pcm reads by reading the live data. ill be able to speak to the vendor to hopefully straiten out the problem. ill keep you all posted. my hard work will be a source/answer for someone else.
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On topic, if you are referencing the very small metal tube coming off the top of your transmission, with the small, short piece of rubber tubing still on it, in your photo...that is nothing but a vent, so the tranny can can breath. And sometimes it will expel excess tranny fluid, with is normal. Hope this helps.
fan temps on wed, i used a buddies scanner with live run and tested (2) different pcms(vendor tuned both pcms). the engine temp went as high 252/253 degrees. the electric fans never came on. just to update, i have to send both pcms back to vendor, to locate the problem. im thinking steve@frost to get back on the road and cut my losses. or maybe just have the vehicle dyno tuned and have the tuner fix this problem. this is possible, rite? all mail order tunes must be recalibrated once everything is situated in vehicle, rite?
Last edited by dec010974; Mar 18, 2010 at 06:29 AM. Reason: mistake
Have you checked the Wiring to ensure that the Circuits are good?
If you follow out my Diagram and ground out the Green & Blue wires then the Fans should come on if the wiring is good.
If they do and the PCM doesn't turn them on then it's not tuned in the PCM.
If you follow out my Diagram and ground out the Green & Blue wires then the Fans should come on if the wiring is good.
If they do and the PCM doesn't turn them on then it's not tuned in the PCM.
Last edited by the_merv; Mar 18, 2010 at 11:46 PM.
fans hello merv/lsnova71. f__K you too big nasty. anyway idiots never have anything to do. sorry guys. when i ground wire to Batt (-) and touch #1 fan & #2 fan wires leading to the relays fans come on. vendor states that they programmed both pcms to turn fans on at 181 & 200 degreees. i guess ill send the pcms back. it be anothe r 2 weeks before i get the pcms back.
fans merv, id rather not say who is doing the tuning. but the whole ordeal with the swap has been a turn for the worse. i spend more time trouble shooting than enjoying the damn vehicle. i thought of carbing the 5.3, or even going back to my 400 small block (gen 1) several times. its very questionable if id use them again. like i said before, go with a vendor that has a good/great name. ive decided to use radiator temp relay. it will come on at certain temp and go off at certain temp. im just tired of sending stuff back and forth. i spent a ton on shipping the harness and stuff. to all my ls1tech fam thanks. keep on wrenching.
I edited some of my posts..I thought you were talking about a LT1 PCM..I got you confused with another person that had asked me about a LT1 PCM.
So you have a LS PCM that's not turning on the Fans?
So you have a LS PCM that's not turning on the Fans?
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
From: Dover Arkansas
I'd check to make sure the wires are hooked up per the Merv, also test the relays, manually ground them and see if the relays actuate and send power on down the line. Should be a simple test with a test light bulb or voltmeter. If this works, hook fans up directly to power and ground to make sure they work. Get a pinout diagram and make sure the grounds from pcm are in the right pin hole and power supply on your fuse holder. Make sure fuse is good.All this checks out, find somebody local with HPtuners or such to check out your tune. Pay them what you paid for all your shipping and have somebody you can go back to for changes down the road. Good luck.