Shit...
Not trying to be a smart-***, but if you don't have the proper tools (the correct expensive bits, etc), do as 89ROC-Z suggested, take it to a machine shop. In the long run, you will save money and have a proper repair without further damage. The machine shop has the tools, equipment and most of all, the knowledge regarding which tools and methods to use. JMO
Mike
Mike
No problem, I understand. I was just hoping to not have to shell out $100-150
thanks
If you will try this, you will throw your PB Blaster and all the other 'store bought' sprays in the trash.
Some of you might appreciate this. Machinist’s Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted” environment.
*Penetrating oil …... Average load*
None ………………...…. 516 pounds
WD-40 ……………..….. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ……….….… 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench …….… 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ………….... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix…….53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a “home brew” mix of 50% – 50% automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the “home brew” was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
I hope this helps,
Mike
Some of you might appreciate this. Machinist’s Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted” environment.
*Penetrating oil …... Average load*
None ………………...…. 516 pounds
WD-40 ……………..….. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ……….….… 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench …….… 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ………….... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix…….53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a “home brew” mix of 50% – 50% automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the “home brew” was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
I hope this helps,
Mike
And on the easy outs, the link I posted says the mistake most people make is not completely drilling out the bolt before trying to use an easy out. They say if you use a left handed bit that is as large as you can get without hitting the threads, then the majority of the time the bolt comes out with the bit. No easy out needed.
And a welder beats a vice grip every time.
Pop, you didn't hijack the thread, we're still on the subject of stuck bolts and how to free them. For those that don't have a 'week or two' to wait on the penetrant to work, the 50/50 mix will greatly help loosen things up.
Mike
Mike
Good luck. I really think the heat is going to make all the difference. I've suprised my self a few times when i thought something wasnt going to break free, and i used a little heat and it broke free easily.
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
I had the same problem this past weekend one manifold bolt on each head. Here is what I did...
The bolts were already broken when I bought the motor from LKQ. The heads of the bolts were broken off leaving entire shaft exposed (from the first thread to where the flange stars at the bottom of the bolt head).
I hit the first one with PB blaster and let it soak for a few min. Then I found a sacrificial socket and tapped it on the shaft of the bolt with a hammer. Hit it one more time with PB Blaster and came right out with ease.
Now on the other side same scenario with the broken head and shaft exposed. Not so lucky, shaft broke making the broken bolt flush with the head. I then did the drill out the bolt exercise and used an extracting bit and now I have a broken extractor inside a broken bolt inside my head.
I think its time for a machine shop trip...grrr
The bolts were already broken when I bought the motor from LKQ. The heads of the bolts were broken off leaving entire shaft exposed (from the first thread to where the flange stars at the bottom of the bolt head).
I hit the first one with PB blaster and let it soak for a few min. Then I found a sacrificial socket and tapped it on the shaft of the bolt with a hammer. Hit it one more time with PB Blaster and came right out with ease.
Now on the other side same scenario with the broken head and shaft exposed. Not so lucky, shaft broke making the broken bolt flush with the head. I then did the drill out the bolt exercise and used an extracting bit and now I have a broken extractor inside a broken bolt inside my head.
I think its time for a machine shop trip...grrr
I had trouble removing the gland nuts on my Datsun struts just yesterday. Got the one side off no problem after spraying everything down with a can of screw loose. The other side I wasn't so lucky and rounded the nut.
Tried cleaning up the nut with a file but no joy. Instead I drilled a 7/8 inch hole in a 3 foot piece of angle iron, slipped that over the strut shaft and welded it to the gland nut. Came right out after that.
Never did get to try the acetone and ATF. But this strut was bent and super rusty, so the nut was probably a goner either way.
Gotta love old cars.
Tried cleaning up the nut with a file but no joy. Instead I drilled a 7/8 inch hole in a 3 foot piece of angle iron, slipped that over the strut shaft and welded it to the gland nut. Came right out after that.
Never did get to try the acetone and ATF. But this strut was bent and super rusty, so the nut was probably a goner either way.
Gotta love old cars.
