Injectors problem or PCM?
That very well might be the problem. I think 2007 was a transition year for the trucks. IIRC, they might have used BOTH setups that year... I don't know if it was an early/late distinction, or if it was split among sub-models.
??? if the engine was a complete pull out, and was running, why would it have the wrong cks in it?
If that's not the case, try the other color cks, and see if that's the problem???
If that's not the case, try the other color cks, and see if that's the problem???
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Teching In
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: San Diego, CA
My engine is from the classic 2007 Silverado 1500 4x4. I pulled off the ckp and the reluctor looks like the 24x version. I also thought that the L59 is a Gen III engine and would only be the 24x. Is it the Gen IV that GM switched to a 58x reluctor wheel? I also think that the NBS or new body style of silverado has the Gen IV engines. But, I could be wrong.
I don't know the difference between a PCM and an E38 ECM. My engine computer has 2 connectors coming out of it, a blue one and a green one. Each has 80 pins.
Geezer, I thought the crank sensor was bad when I couldn't start the engine a couple months ago. I replaced the crank and camshaft sensors to be on the safe side. I could have definitely gotten the wrong part from the parts store. But, this crank sensor is the black one. My connector to the crank sensor is gray. (I'm just telling you this, because on some of the threads, people are saying that if the wiring harness crank sensor connector is gray, you should have a gray crank sensor.)
I don't know the difference between a PCM and an E38 ECM. My engine computer has 2 connectors coming out of it, a blue one and a green one. Each has 80 pins.
Geezer, I thought the crank sensor was bad when I couldn't start the engine a couple months ago. I replaced the crank and camshaft sensors to be on the safe side. I could have definitely gotten the wrong part from the parts store. But, this crank sensor is the black one. My connector to the crank sensor is gray. (I'm just telling you this, because on some of the threads, people are saying that if the wiring harness crank sensor connector is gray, you should have a gray crank sensor.)
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From: San Diego, CA
So, I got the noid light from the store and plugged it into one of the injector connectors. During cranking, the light flashes bright for a split second and then fades each subsequent time it lights.
2007 Classic is a GENIII 24x crank. You have the right CKPS.
You said that VATS is off, did you turn it off yourself?
Do you have the intake tract complete from MAF to TB?
You said that VATS is off, did you turn it off yourself?
Do you have the intake tract complete from MAF to TB?
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From: San Diego, CA
On my HP Tuners, There is a tab in VCM Editor that is called System. In there, I have PRNDL equipped set to NONE, Column lock set to NOT FITTED, Fail Fuel Cut VSS set to 255mph, and VATS set to NONE. (IN case you were wondering, there are 3 settings for VATS: Serial, PWM, and NONE.)
Yes, the intake track is complete. I bought a GM MAF since that didn't come with my engine. But the rest of it was stock on the engine and I haven't modified it.
Yes, the intake track is complete. I bought a GM MAF since that didn't come with my engine. But the rest of it was stock on the engine and I haven't modified it.
On my HP Tuners, There is a tab in VCM Editor that is called System. In there, I have PRNDL equipped set to NONE, Column lock set to NOT FITTED, Fail Fuel Cut VSS set to 255mph, and VATS set to NONE. (IN case you were wondering, there are 3 settings for VATS: Serial, PWM, and NONE.)
Yes, the intake track is complete. I bought a GM MAF since that didn't come with my engine. But the rest of it was stock on the engine and I haven't modified it.
Yes, the intake track is complete. I bought a GM MAF since that didn't come with my engine. But the rest of it was stock on the engine and I haven't modified it.
Also check the GROUND for the engine harness that bolts to the block behind the power steering pump. This one gets missed a lot. Its for the coils mostly, but you never know..
Ok, I just wanted to hear how you disabled the VATS. You never know what people do.
Busta9876 makes some good points.
Also, there is a ground on the right side of the block on top behind the intake near the cam position sensor and also one on the back of the left head. Either one can cause major problems if loose.
Busta9876 makes some good points.
Also, there is a ground on the right side of the block on top behind the intake near the cam position sensor and also one on the back of the left head. Either one can cause major problems if loose.
My 07 Classic.. 
I can look at what's on it, if you want. It's totally stock, bought new in 03/07.
It sounds like you have the PCM, not a E38 ECM. If that is the case, I really think you're Blue #75 on the PCM should be wired "hot in run and start." Check out the wiring diagram I attached.
BTW, this diagram is for a 2005 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E trans, but every wire that I needed from my 2006 harness was identical to this 2005 drawing. I don't think there was any variation up through the 2007 trucks (GenIII version, which should be what you have). I checked the database and the Blue #75 is also hot in run and start for the 2006 Silverado 1500. The database I use lags behind, and they haven't posted up the wiring diagrams for the 2007 model year yet, but I bet it's also the same.
BTW, this diagram is for a 2005 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E trans, but every wire that I needed from my 2006 harness was identical to this 2005 drawing. I don't think there was any variation up through the 2007 trucks (GenIII version, which should be what you have). I checked the database and the Blue #75 is also hot in run and start for the 2006 Silverado 1500. The database I use lags behind, and they haven't posted up the wiring diagrams for the 2007 model year yet, but I bet it's also the same.
Last edited by FastKat; Jul 18, 2010 at 12:23 PM.
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busta9876, Here's what I have:
I unhooked the MAF, and tried to start. Same thing. Still cranking and not starting.
The vacuum port on the back of the intake goes to my brake booster at this point.
I've got a ground wire near the power steering reservoir that is grounded to frame. Also on that point is the engine block, driver side head, and front axle.
FastKat, the C1.75 wire has been connected to the ignition relay and I don't get anything different when it's connected. I see it in the diagram that you sent. Thanks! It looks like I have all of the other wires exactly the same as that diagram.
99-2door, I have ground on the right side of the block on top behind the intake near the cam position sensor. I actually beefed up this wire in my wiring harness and gave it a solid ground back there.
I don't know about a ground being on the driver side head? Although I do have the rear part of the head grounded to the body firewall from there.
I have the SARVC still connected to my truck. I don't know if anyone's ever talked about using it during a swap, but I think it is used to monitor current consumption on the negative wire of the battery. Do I need it to run my engine or can I remove it?
Do I need a BCM?
Do I need to do a crank learn?
Could my PCM be stuck in some theft mode from trying to start it without the antitheft equipment installed even if I disabled the VATS?
I unhooked the MAF, and tried to start. Same thing. Still cranking and not starting.
The vacuum port on the back of the intake goes to my brake booster at this point.
I've got a ground wire near the power steering reservoir that is grounded to frame. Also on that point is the engine block, driver side head, and front axle.
FastKat, the C1.75 wire has been connected to the ignition relay and I don't get anything different when it's connected. I see it in the diagram that you sent. Thanks! It looks like I have all of the other wires exactly the same as that diagram.
99-2door, I have ground on the right side of the block on top behind the intake near the cam position sensor. I actually beefed up this wire in my wiring harness and gave it a solid ground back there.
I don't know about a ground being on the driver side head? Although I do have the rear part of the head grounded to the body firewall from there.
I have the SARVC still connected to my truck. I don't know if anyone's ever talked about using it during a swap, but I think it is used to monitor current consumption on the negative wire of the battery. Do I need it to run my engine or can I remove it?
Do I need a BCM?
Do I need to do a crank learn?
Could my PCM be stuck in some theft mode from trying to start it without the antitheft equipment installed even if I disabled the VATS?
Maybe it suggests a bad connection somewhere, or a connection in a bad place?
Maybe too much oxidation on a connection, or a loose connection on a major ground, power wire, or battery post?
Have you tried putting a load tester on the battery, or tested the battery voltage? There could be a bad cell in the battery.
Is something going on that could be causing this condition when the engine starts cranking?
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From: Brighton,IL
man i having the same problem, but my motor is a 2001 5.3 that im putting in a 68 chevy truck. i am haveing the same problem. i power up the computer and everything and crank it over itll start for like 2 seconds then die. i put noid light on it it lights up when i first start to crank then the losses power i guess to the injector cause the noid light fails to light anymore. the coils still have power its got me real confused right now any help would be appreicated
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Battery voltage is good. Battery has been purchased in the last 2 months. Optima D78 yellow top. I've also used 2 other known good batteries and nothing changed.
Wiring is mostly brand new. The engine was pulled from a brand new truck with only 1 mile on it. Needless to say, the wiring harness has no dirt, grime or anything on it that could cause a bad connection. I've crimped 10 4AWG wires to ground everything to everything else. Body to frame to engine to transmission to axles. I've got 1 1/0 Ground wire from battery to the frame to engine block at a single point on the frame.
I've double-checked and triple-checked the wiring in the new wiring harness. I even have a spreadsheet on every single wire that is connected to the PCM and where it goes.
Guys, Thank you so much for helping me with ideas here. I've tried to cover my bases and it's good to know that we're on the same page.
This was a PCM for an automatic tranny and I removed the tranny in favor of a manual. I don't know what part that would play in everything. Do I need a segment swap?
I'll keep you updated and if you have any other ideas, shoot!
Wiring is mostly brand new. The engine was pulled from a brand new truck with only 1 mile on it. Needless to say, the wiring harness has no dirt, grime or anything on it that could cause a bad connection. I've crimped 10 4AWG wires to ground everything to everything else. Body to frame to engine to transmission to axles. I've got 1 1/0 Ground wire from battery to the frame to engine block at a single point on the frame.
I've double-checked and triple-checked the wiring in the new wiring harness. I even have a spreadsheet on every single wire that is connected to the PCM and where it goes.
Guys, Thank you so much for helping me with ideas here. I've tried to cover my bases and it's good to know that we're on the same page.
This was a PCM for an automatic tranny and I removed the tranny in favor of a manual. I don't know what part that would play in everything. Do I need a segment swap?
I'll keep you updated and if you have any other ideas, shoot!
Too bad you can't borrow another PCM from someone and try it on your engine/harness. Heck, if I were you and at this point, I might pay the $75-$90 and buy a reflashed PCM from Wait4Me Performance or off eBay just to make sure it isn't a bad PCM.
FWIW, the lady that parks next to me has a Saturn Sky... she just had her PCM replaced last Friday because it went bad (hardware failure).
FWIW, the lady that parks next to me has a Saturn Sky... she just had her PCM replaced last Friday because it went bad (hardware failure).
