trans issue
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
trans issue i am just finishing up my swap and am running a 4l60e. I am using a painless harness. The engine runs perfect but when I try to shift into gear(any gear) i get nothing. im stumped
the harness can work for a Auto or a manual. Does the PCM need to be programmed for what trans you are using? Could it be possibel that my PCM is programmed for a man trans?
the harness can work for a Auto or a manual. Does the PCM need to be programmed for what trans you are using? Could it be possibel that my PCM is programmed for a man trans?
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 443
Likes: 3
From: Kansas City, MO
Even without pcm control the 4l60e should at least have reverse and 3rd gear. You didn't forget to bolt the torque converter to the flywheel? Did the converter seat all of the way into the pump? If it didn't the pump rotor could have broken when you bolted the trans to the engine.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Yes the converter did seat it self all the way at least I think it did.
Is it dificult to damage the pump? During install the converter was in and out a few times as I figured out what bellhousing/Plate would fit. It is possible that the convert was not seated properly.
How dificult is it to repl the Pump. Is there a way I can tell if the pump is damaged?
I assume I need to get a pressure tester for the test port
Is it dificult to damage the pump? During install the converter was in and out a few times as I figured out what bellhousing/Plate would fit. It is possible that the convert was not seated properly.
How dificult is it to repl the Pump. Is there a way I can tell if the pump is damaged?
I assume I need to get a pressure tester for the test port
EZ check on the pump:
Check the fluid level w/ engine off. Start engine and check fluid level. If it didn't drop, no pump. If it did, the pump is operating.
As for damage: If you pulled the trans up to the block w/ bolts, and the verter was not seated in the pump, the pump can/will be damaged.....125 to .200 clearance should be an indicator that the pump/verter is seated.
To measure,push the converter back from flexplate. Install a verter bolt, and screw it in til it's touching the flex, push the verter out til it hits the flex. Use a allen wrench as a feeler ga..Check between the underside of the bolt head to the flex plate.
I work thru the starter hole.
This works well, as if you measure the gap w/ the verter full back in the pump, the nose may pull out of the crank, and the measuremets will be fubar.
Check the fluid level w/ engine off. Start engine and check fluid level. If it didn't drop, no pump. If it did, the pump is operating.
As for damage: If you pulled the trans up to the block w/ bolts, and the verter was not seated in the pump, the pump can/will be damaged.....125 to .200 clearance should be an indicator that the pump/verter is seated.
To measure,push the converter back from flexplate. Install a verter bolt, and screw it in til it's touching the flex, push the verter out til it hits the flex. Use a allen wrench as a feeler ga..Check between the underside of the bolt head to the flex plate.
I work thru the starter hole.
This works well, as if you measure the gap w/ the verter full back in the pump, the nose may pull out of the crank, and the measuremets will be fubar.
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 443
Likes: 3
From: Kansas City, MO
You need to pull the pan, remove the filter, the tcc pwm solenoid to get to the two bolts for the tcc solenoid and remove that. Then remove the bellhousing with a t50pluss torx bit. Make sure you remove the o-ring on the input shaft and unbolt the pump bolts. You can use a pry bar through the gap by where the filter was to pry the pump up. Once that is out, unbolt the pump halves and you will see the carnage if the rotor is broken.
