is bigger always better??
is bigger always better?? for the clutch master cylinder??? im using a stock 300zx cmc and with that one man bleeder thingmajig...i'm also certain theres no air in the line...but im having a hard time putting it in gear while motor is running...shift in multiple gears fine when motor is not running...so i try to put it in gear first then start the car and w/o no gas the car creeps forward a lil bit...which tells me i'm probably slipping the clutch cuz it's not disengaged all the way...i was able to make 1 lap around my block...but only in first gear cuz its very hard to shift to other gears...car runs ruff...just open exhaust manifold...
so my question is...should i run as big of a cmc as possible or just stick with a certain size???from wat ive search seem the two common size used is 3/4 or 7/8...
so my question is...should i run as big of a cmc as possible or just stick with a certain size???from wat ive search seem the two common size used is 3/4 or 7/8...
Last edited by Yellowbrother; Jun 26, 2010 at 04:11 PM.
MC's are speced by the length of travel as well as diameter. The HTOB I used required a 3/4 inch bore and 1" stroke.
Mine wouldn't full disengage when I first got it. I needed to adjust the pedal linkage all the way out to get it to fully disengage. All good now.
When you installed the HTOB you should have made measurements to make sure it had sufficient travel. My transmission supplier failed to mention that little gem causing me to overextend and ruin the first one. After doing their meausrements they sent two 1/4 spacers to put behind the bearing.
Mine wouldn't full disengage when I first got it. I needed to adjust the pedal linkage all the way out to get it to fully disengage. All good now.
When you installed the HTOB you should have made measurements to make sure it had sufficient travel. My transmission supplier failed to mention that little gem causing me to overextend and ruin the first one. After doing their meausrements they sent two 1/4 spacers to put behind the bearing.
MC's are speced by the length of travel as well as diameter. The HTOB I used required a 3/4 inch bore and 1" stroke.
Mine wouldn't full disengage when I first got it. I needed to adjust the pedal linkage all the way out to get it to fully disengage. All good now.
When you installed the HTOB you should have made measurements to make sure it had sufficient travel. My transmission supplier failed to mention that little gem causing me to overextend and ruin the first one. After doing their meausrements they sent two 1/4 spacers to put behind the bearing.
Mine wouldn't full disengage when I first got it. I needed to adjust the pedal linkage all the way out to get it to fully disengage. All good now.
When you installed the HTOB you should have made measurements to make sure it had sufficient travel. My transmission supplier failed to mention that little gem causing me to overextend and ruin the first one. After doing their meausrements they sent two 1/4 spacers to put behind the bearing.
htob??? throw out bearing??? what's the h stand for??? hehehe...
i blew the seal on the original slave cylinder/throw out bearing the first time...i pumped it with no load and it kept going until it blew the seal....i put the seal back and all...didn't trust it tho so i bought another from six speed inc or wateva that went bankrupt in houston...i didn't put no spacer on my throw out bearing...im using a luk pressure plate and stock flywheel...
hmmm...maybe u're rite tho...maybe i need to adjust the pedal to increase stroke...
wat's the factory spec for the mc on t56???
so...after taking a lil break from a semi successful semi failed attempt to drive my car today...i decided to adjust the pedal..there was maybe 1/4 left on the push rod...didn't think it would make a difference...but i turned it to the end of the rod and button things up...started the car and attempted to shift...shift into gears easily now...too late to do a test run...will test again tomorrow...
