Pulling my hair out
Pulling my hair out Ok here is my problem. i have a 2004 lq9 alternator with a 2pin plug on it.the number on the back of the alternator is 0124525140 its a Bosch 160 amp.
my swap harness has the 4 pin plug with only 1 wire. how do i wire this together. i have searched a bunch of posts. and now i am really confused
. i have a 2 pin plug i got from the stealer-ship. or can i change the regulator from a 2 pin to a 4 pin. any help would be greatly appreciated>
my swap harness has the 4 pin plug with only 1 wire. how do i wire this together. i have searched a bunch of posts. and now i am really confused
. i have a 2 pin plug i got from the stealer-ship. or can i change the regulator from a 2 pin to a 4 pin. any help would be greatly appreciated> 
What year/model is your PCM?
The truck alternator, as you probably already figured out, communicates with the PCM via 2 wires. Depending on what your PCM is programmed to, you may be able to run the two wires from the alternator to the appropriate pins on the PCM connector.
The truck alternator, as you probably already figured out, communicates with the PCM via 2 wires. Depending on what your PCM is programmed to, you may be able to run the two wires from the alternator to the appropriate pins on the PCM connector.
Ok here is my problem. i have a 2004 lq9 alternator with a 2pin plug on it.the number on the back of the alternator is 0124525140 its a Bosch 160 amp.
my swap harness has the 4 pin plug with only 1 wire. how do i wire this together. i have searched a bunch of posts. and now i am really confused. i have a 2 pin plug i got from the stealer-ship. or can i change the regulator from a 2 pin to a 4 pin. any help would be greatly appreciated>
my swap harness has the 4 pin plug with only 1 wire. how do i wire this together. i have searched a bunch of posts. and now i am really confused
. i have a 2 pin plug i got from the stealer-ship. or can i change the regulator from a 2 pin to a 4 pin. any help would be greatly appreciated> What year/model is your PCM?
The truck alternator, as you probably already figured out, communicates with the PCM via 2 wires. Depending on what your PCM is programmed to, you may be able to run the two wires from the alternator to the appropriate pins on the PCM connector.
The truck alternator, as you probably already figured out, communicates with the PCM via 2 wires. Depending on what your PCM is programmed to, you may be able to run the two wires from the alternator to the appropriate pins on the PCM connector.
On the Camaro, the single wire coming from the alternator (not the heavy charge wire that goes to the battery) ran through the alternator trouble light on the dash and terminated at a hot in run or start circuit. The alternator "field" is internally controlled. When swapping in an engine with a Camaro alternator, the alternator trouble light can be substituted with a 470 ohm resistor. You must have some sort of resistance on this circuit if you want your alternator to last.
One of the truck alternator wires functions very similarly to the Camaro wire described above. The truck alternators I have come across have a 4-pin plug, and only use two wires - wire B and wire C. Wire B is usually brown, and functions just like the above mentioned Camaro wire, except that instead of running to a trouble light or a resistor and then to hot in run or start, it runs to a pin on the truck PCM which emulates the light/resistor. The truck PCM will also trigger the dash light when necessary. Since these wires do the same function, you should be able to run this wire to an alternator trouble light in your dash or through a 470 ohm resistor. Your wiring harness, if it's from a 2000 Camaro, probably already has this wire included. It should be the one wire that goes to your alternator (again, not the heavy wire that goes to your battery). Make sure the wire has the appropriate resistance, either through a bulb or resistor, and terminates in a hot in run or start circuit.
The second wire... the "field" wire, I don't know much about. The truck schematic has it labeled "generator field duty cycle signal". I don't remember what it does. The Camaro harness does not have a field wire because the field is internally controlled in the alternator. Maybe someone can chime in and help you with that second wire.
Let me know what year/model vehicle that alternator came from, and I'll try to find the appropriate schematic.
One of the truck alternator wires functions very similarly to the Camaro wire described above. The truck alternators I have come across have a 4-pin plug, and only use two wires - wire B and wire C. Wire B is usually brown, and functions just like the above mentioned Camaro wire, except that instead of running to a trouble light or a resistor and then to hot in run or start, it runs to a pin on the truck PCM which emulates the light/resistor. The truck PCM will also trigger the dash light when necessary. Since these wires do the same function, you should be able to run this wire to an alternator trouble light in your dash or through a 470 ohm resistor. Your wiring harness, if it's from a 2000 Camaro, probably already has this wire included. It should be the one wire that goes to your alternator (again, not the heavy wire that goes to your battery). Make sure the wire has the appropriate resistance, either through a bulb or resistor, and terminates in a hot in run or start circuit.
The second wire... the "field" wire, I don't know much about. The truck schematic has it labeled "generator field duty cycle signal". I don't remember what it does. The Camaro harness does not have a field wire because the field is internally controlled in the alternator. Maybe someone can chime in and help you with that second wire.
Let me know what year/model vehicle that alternator came from, and I'll try to find the appropriate schematic.
On the Camaro, the single wire coming from the alternator (not the heavy charge wire that goes to the battery) ran through the alternator trouble light on the dash and terminated at a hot in run or start circuit. The alternator "field" is internally controlled. When swapping in an engine with a Camaro alternator, the alternator trouble light can be substituted with a 470 ohm resistor. You must have some sort of resistance on this circuit if you want your alternator to last.
One of the truck alternator wires functions very similarly to the Camaro wire described above. The truck alternators I have come across have a 4-pin plug, and only use two wires - wire B and wire C. Wire B is usually brown, and functions just like the above mentioned Camaro wire, except that instead of running to a trouble light or a resistor and then to hot in run or start, it runs to a pin on the truck PCM which emulates the light/resistor. The truck PCM will also trigger the dash light when necessary. Since these wires do the same function, you should be able to run this wire to an alternator trouble light in your dash or through a 470 ohm resistor. Your wiring harness, if it's from a 2000 Camaro, probably already has this wire included. It should be the one wire that goes to your alternator (again, not the heavy wire that goes to your battery). Make sure the wire has the appropriate resistance, either through a bulb or resistor, and terminates in a hot in run or start circuit.
The second wire... the "field" wire, I don't know much about. The truck schematic has it labeled "generator field duty cycle signal". I don't remember what it does. The Camaro harness does not have a field wire because the field is internally controlled in the alternator. Maybe someone can chime in and help you with that second wire.
Let me know what year/model vehicle that alternator came from, and I'll try to find the appropriate schematic.
One of the truck alternator wires functions very similarly to the Camaro wire described above. The truck alternators I have come across have a 4-pin plug, and only use two wires - wire B and wire C. Wire B is usually brown, and functions just like the above mentioned Camaro wire, except that instead of running to a trouble light or a resistor and then to hot in run or start, it runs to a pin on the truck PCM which emulates the light/resistor. The truck PCM will also trigger the dash light when necessary. Since these wires do the same function, you should be able to run this wire to an alternator trouble light in your dash or through a 470 ohm resistor. Your wiring harness, if it's from a 2000 Camaro, probably already has this wire included. It should be the one wire that goes to your alternator (again, not the heavy wire that goes to your battery). Make sure the wire has the appropriate resistance, either through a bulb or resistor, and terminates in a hot in run or start circuit.
The second wire... the "field" wire, I don't know much about. The truck schematic has it labeled "generator field duty cycle signal". I don't remember what it does. The Camaro harness does not have a field wire because the field is internally controlled in the alternator. Maybe someone can chime in and help you with that second wire.
Let me know what year/model vehicle that alternator came from, and I'll try to find the appropriate schematic.
thanks for you help
I just checked the schematic - it is as I described, wired like a regular truck alternator. The truck alternator has a 4-pin connector. The 2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV diagram shows pins A and D are not used. It shows pin B (charge indicator control) and pin C (Generator Field Duty Cycle Signal) wired to the PCM on connector 2, pins 15 and 75 respectively.
If your alternator doesn't have a 4 pin plug with only 2 pins being used, you might have the wrong alternator?! Or maybe some sort of high-performance aftermarket unit?
Anyway, it shouldn't matter much. If you don't have the correct alternator, buy it, and wire plug B through a dash light or resistor. and figure out what to do with that field wire. A google search should be able to help you out with that. I looked it up a while back, and I think it was something easy.
If your alternator doesn't have a 4 pin plug with only 2 pins being used, you might have the wrong alternator?! Or maybe some sort of high-performance aftermarket unit?
Anyway, it shouldn't matter much. If you don't have the correct alternator, buy it, and wire plug B through a dash light or resistor. and figure out what to do with that field wire. A google search should be able to help you out with that. I looked it up a while back, and I think it was something easy.
