LS2 storage
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 197
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, AZ
LS2 storage Just started my 55 Olds 88 hot rod & got a deal on a 20K mile LS2 and trans out of an 06 GTO.
Looks like it's gonna be a while before I actually do anything with the motor beyond mock-up.
What's the best way to store this while I take care of the body and chassis (maybe a year?).
Should I remove the water pump and flush with water? I was think of shrink wrapping it on my engine stand.
What about the AC compressor? Anything special needed beyond sealing up the holes?
Joe
Looks like it's gonna be a while before I actually do anything with the motor beyond mock-up.
What's the best way to store this while I take care of the body and chassis (maybe a year?).
Should I remove the water pump and flush with water? I was think of shrink wrapping it on my engine stand.
What about the AC compressor? Anything special needed beyond sealing up the holes?
Joe
you may want to flush the cooling jackets out, but its probably overkill.
what i would do is pull all the plugs, shoot some wd40 in all of the cylinders, put the plugs back in.
leave it on your stand, shrink wrap it pretty well. whatever you cant do with shrink wrap, clean real well and use masking tape. make sure any showing machined surfaces have either oil or wd on them, and you should be good to go. the a/c compressor, make sure its filled to the correct level with the oil, than plug it or tape over the holes for the hoses. everyonce in a while you can turn the compressor just to distribute the lube. idk about the engine though, turning wise. never had to store one that long. good luck and lookin forward to your build.
what i would do is pull all the plugs, shoot some wd40 in all of the cylinders, put the plugs back in.
leave it on your stand, shrink wrap it pretty well. whatever you cant do with shrink wrap, clean real well and use masking tape. make sure any showing machined surfaces have either oil or wd on them, and you should be good to go. the a/c compressor, make sure its filled to the correct level with the oil, than plug it or tape over the holes for the hoses. everyonce in a while you can turn the compressor just to distribute the lube. idk about the engine though, turning wise. never had to store one that long. good luck and lookin forward to your build.
i had my ls1 in my 240 for about a year and a half, i took my plugs out every 2 months, sprayed some stabil fogging oil (wd-40 should work) and used the starter to turn the engine over, of course with oil in the pan, when i was finally able to start the motor lifters didn't take long at all to prime, What i did was probably overkill but i didn't have problems when i started the motor. I don't know if I would let the starter turn the motor on a stand, and loosing the rockers I think is a good idea instead of letting them sit for a year in one place, I didn't think of that.
you may want to flush the cooling jackets out, but its probably overkill.
what i would do is pull all the plugs, shoot some wd40 in all of the cylinders, put the plugs back in.
leave it on your stand, shrink wrap it pretty well. whatever you cant do with shrink wrap, clean real well and use masking tape. make sure any showing machined surfaces have either oil or wd on them, and you should be good to go. the a/c compressor, make sure its filled to the correct level with the oil, than plug it or tape over the holes for the hoses. everyonce in a while you can turn the compressor just to distribute the lube. idk about the engine though, turning wise. never had to store one that long. good luck and lookin forward to your build.
what i would do is pull all the plugs, shoot some wd40 in all of the cylinders, put the plugs back in.
leave it on your stand, shrink wrap it pretty well. whatever you cant do with shrink wrap, clean real well and use masking tape. make sure any showing machined surfaces have either oil or wd on them, and you should be good to go. the a/c compressor, make sure its filled to the correct level with the oil, than plug it or tape over the holes for the hoses. everyonce in a while you can turn the compressor just to distribute the lube. idk about the engine though, turning wise. never had to store one that long. good luck and lookin forward to your build.
don't ever use wd40 it is not a rust preventative it actually promotes rust once it dries, get a film product like maxfilm or others they are the absolute best for that. and for inside the cyinders pick up some engine fogger at napa thats what its made for
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 197
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, AZ
Thanks for the advice. What about the raw aluminum outside surface? Is there something I can spray on it that will keep it from oxidizing too much? Something that will come off when I want it to?
I will try to post some progress a sit happens. The body and front chassis need lots of attention though first.
I will try to post some progress a sit happens. The body and front chassis need lots of attention though first.
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If it is only going to sit a year or two then I would just tape over the openings, throw a tarp over it and call it good. Whatever youi do make sure to change the oil before starting it again.
If you are really worried about it or live in a super humid area like Florida, then you can get an engine storage bag and put a box of water absorber in the bottom when you seal it up. Most home stores sell boxes of desiccants.
Don't know that I agree with the comment about WD40 causing rust. I use it on my guns all the time. The WD stands for water displacement, it was made specifically to prevent rust by displacing water.
http://www.wd40.com/faqs/
If you are really worried about it or live in a super humid area like Florida, then you can get an engine storage bag and put a box of water absorber in the bottom when you seal it up. Most home stores sell boxes of desiccants.
Don't know that I agree with the comment about WD40 causing rust. I use it on my guns all the time. The WD stands for water displacement, it was made specifically to prevent rust by displacing water.
http://www.wd40.com/faqs/
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Verdad Gallardo thats what i thought. my glock has had it on it for a year while its been dormant in my basement and the barrel/slides have no rust on them. plus i've never had an engine rust with wd on it (granted i spray it on every few weeks to recoat it, but ive also never been patient enough to store an engine for more than a month)
"http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367491&highlight=wd40"
When doing the storage prep, pull the injectors, shake out the fuel, and put some 3 in 1 oil in them, cap them off, and bag them in zip loc bags.
When doing the storage prep, pull the injectors, shake out the fuel, and put some 3 in 1 oil in them, cap them off, and bag them in zip loc bags.
If it is only going to sit a year or two then I would just tape over the openings, throw a tarp over it and call it good. Whatever youi do make sure to change the oil before starting it again.
If you are really worried about it or live in a super humid area like Florida, then you can get an engine storage bag and put a box of water absorber in the bottom when you seal it up. Most home stores sell boxes of desiccants.
Don't know that I agree with the comment about WD40 causing rust. I use it on my guns all the time. The WD stands for water displacement, it was made specifically to prevent rust by displacing water.
http://www.wd40.com/faqs/
If you are really worried about it or live in a super humid area like Florida, then you can get an engine storage bag and put a box of water absorber in the bottom when you seal it up. Most home stores sell boxes of desiccants.
Don't know that I agree with the comment about WD40 causing rust. I use it on my guns all the time. The WD stands for water displacement, it was made specifically to prevent rust by displacing water.
http://www.wd40.com/faqs/
