Bandit, In part, my decision to run dynatechs and car shop 1 inch back plates are from myz06 thread:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...plug-wire.html

Don't be surprised if the Camaro runs around for a few years in satin black until it is restored to burnished brown.

 

I see you added links to the other threads. Thanks for that. There are some changes in the dynatech headers. They include all fasteners and 45 degree o2 bungs now. I will soon document how well they fit my application.

On another note: My harness, ecm, tcm and gas pedal were stolen, so I ordered a painless 60526. It is very nice, but remember how my 09 LY6 has an LS3 style Map sensor? The Harness will not plug into my Map sensor. More details to follow...

 

Frame por15ed, front end reassembled. I didn't paint the spindles or center link yet, but who cares. It's back together and the steering wheel isn't upside down. I did some of this while it was snowing.



Here is a problem:



The summit sway bar and ebay lower control arms don't seem to want to be friends. I might have to have a little fabing done on the lower control arms to get the sway bar to mount better. Or, is this acceptable?

 

Is that at full droop? It shouldn't be tha bad at ride height

 

Yes, full droop. I think it will be a little better on the ground.

 

It looks fine to me. That's a real bummer about your wiring getting stolen. Do you have some place to lock things up? I cant believe you are doing all this work out in the snow & rain.

 

The sway bar links will be fine once the weight of the car is on the suspension mine was the same way while up on the lift. I did wait until it was on all 4 to tighten them up.

 

These are some factory quick disconnects that I got off the van with a vette fuel filter. I still need to cut off the factory nylon hose. I would like to run them with 3/8 fuel injection (rubber braided) hose with fuel injection clamps.

The brass fittings from ace hardware are a 5/16 compression fitting to 1/4 pipe to coupling to 1/4 pipe to 3/8 barb. This will attach my 3/8 fuel injection fuel hose to the 5/16 return on the tank. I was very fortunate to purchase a 250 ft role of 3/8 dayco fuel injection hose for very little money so I want to use it for my return too.

Any objections? Remember this is not a show car, it's a go car. (I hope)

 

I don't see any issues there.

 

You should be fine with the fuel fittings, though I'd look around for a single brass fitting to replace that monstrosity you've made

I'd solder an LS3 MAP sensor plug into that Painless harness, as I don't believe the early-style MAP will work with your PCM. It's pretty simple - here's a pinout. I've got an extra connector I can ship you if you'd like. PM me.

 

I have a couple objections. I don't know if you ever intend to race the car at the track, but NHRA rules prohibits rubber hose for fuel line. So, you would fail tech inspection. The other is just plain safety. I don't like long runs of rubber hose for fuel line for fire safety.

My recommendation is to either run steel 3/8 fuel line connected by double flare fittings or run braided stainless steel covered flexible fuel line. Some people like to run 1/2 aluminum tubing for fuel line but I don't care for the aluminum tubing as I have seen it crack from vibration and/or stress.

You can buy a 25 foot roll of 3/8 galvanized steel fuel line from Napa for about $25. It takes a little more time and effort, but is worth every minute in my opinion.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I can't argue about the NHRA rules and this point is taken. But I would like to discuss the safety issue.

Here is the manufacterers description of the hose:

Dayco’s Fuel Injection Hose is constructed with a tough fluoro-elastomer, lowpermeation, gasahol and diesel fuel inner tube that provides exceptional resistance to alcohol blended fuels that weaken normal fuel injection hose. A special braided reinforcement delivers a recommended working pressure of 100psi, with a burst strength of 900psi. The abrasion-resistant outer cover resists temperature extremes of -30°F (-34.5°C) to +300°F (+149°C) as well as oil, grease, ozone, and coolants.

This stuff retails for over $7 a foot and the manufacterer has no maximum recommended length. Also, unlike a steel braided hose, this hose should be easier to inspect for condition. A steel braided hose is just a rubber hose on the inside and there is no way to inspect the condition of the rubber on the inside. Also, if I run this hose the length, I have 2 fewer connections per line. This hose is far superior to rubber low pressure fuel line so I don't think it is a good comparison and I wonder if the NHRA is making this comparison.

I don't think I have all the answers on this, but does the issue of running this hose a longer length stem from the same concerns that apply to low pressure fuel line?

 

I agree on the brass, if I can find it. Painless has been kind enough to offer to ship me the parts needed to change the connector. If it doesn't work, I will be in contact. What I have found out is that in 2009, the LY6 went to an LS3 compatible map sensor. Lucky me.

 

Yes! My spare bedroom. When I get a garage I'll appreciate it.

 

What did your Painless harness set you back ? I'm fitting a LY6 & 6L90 to a holden one tonner and am looking at using one of these harnesses, Do they do one that suits the 6L90 trans and vvt ? I spoke with them 3 or so months ago and they said they were working on it.

Cheers,

Barra

 

I need help with my air intake setup. Any advice would be appreciated.

Here is the thread where I posted:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...vette-maf.html

 

More than I want to admit, but not that much more than buying another harness and getting it modified. $1054US. I don't think it works with the 6L90 but it does work with vvt. I'm sure they're working on one that controls the 6 speed.

 

futureuser,
Thanks for the info, I'll give them another month or so and ring them again. It'll cost me about $ 2500 AUD to get one sorted over here.

Cheers,
Barra.

 

Too much snow and ice outside so I removed the shifter to do the Shiftworks mod. This is the optional Thompson ratchet detent mechanism. This is slick and has very nice action. Slap 1 and lock into 2nd. Lift and slap for 3rd and slap and lock into 4th. Please...no comments about all the slapping, I am a closet mopar fan. Imagine an LS powered 68 Charger. Oh the murder that would happen!

 

I am looking into the factory style fuel line myself. I have access to all of the tools and fittings I need to complete this. Does NHRA require all cars to shed their factory fuel line to drag? Lets say you have 2002 Z/28 and laid down some good times, will tech make you change out the factory installed lines? I really dont know. The OEM line is some tough fuel line. Its easy to route and easy to affix to the chassis. I agree on the wear and tear, it would be easier to spot. If were to go with say braided line I would get the teflon lined with the steel outer core with the stainless outside. There are more than one layer inside of the stainless braided line. I used to think it was rubber hose with a stainless sleeve and never bothered to use. But recently I talked it over with a Hi-Perf shop locally and he brought out a diagram with the multilayers in each fuel line. I was amazed. Are you interested in selling some of the 3/8" OEM line? You know you can also buy the sleeve that will fit over this type of line that will aid in wear resisitance. It sort of like heat shrink but you buy it by the roll. Just a little added protection. The line in question can withstand a lot of PSI and is easily repaired if need be. Let me know on the line as I am seriously thinking oof going that route. Keep up the good work and good luck on your build.