72 Olds 442 build
Ok, I'm starting out to say, this reluctor/VSS is an experiment, I have no idea if it's going to work.
So I was looking to add a reluctor near the speedo drive gear on the T10, but there really wasnt a good place to mount the relutor and VSS in the housing. That's when I noticed the 39 tooth reluctor on the left side of the pic, the reverse gear.
The housing there was pretty thin. I bent a piece of 0.20 thick aluminum and had it tacked to the housing. There wont be any stress on it, I just wanted to be sure it wouldn't vibrate loose. You can see the teeth of the square cut reverse gear in the hole. The reverse gear rides in this location when the trans is not in reverse.
I also tapped the hole for 1/4 NPT. The VSS only comes in fine thread, not the best for aluminum, so I tapped the center of the 1/4" NPT plug for the VSS.
So I was looking to add a reluctor near the speedo drive gear on the T10, but there really wasnt a good place to mount the relutor and VSS in the housing. That's when I noticed the 39 tooth reluctor on the left side of the pic, the reverse gear.
The housing there was pretty thin. I bent a piece of 0.20 thick aluminum and had it tacked to the housing. There wont be any stress on it, I just wanted to be sure it wouldn't vibrate loose. You can see the teeth of the square cut reverse gear in the hole. The reverse gear rides in this location when the trans is not in reverse.
I also tapped the hole for 1/4 NPT. The VSS only comes in fine thread, not the best for aluminum, so I tapped the center of the 1/4" NPT plug for the VSS.
Last edited by garys 68; Apr 4, 2012 at 12:11 AM.
The T10 is about 3/8" longer than the Muncie. Not a pproblem since my 1" setback plates moved the back of the Muncie forward about 1/4".
Muncie tail on top.
And the Sachs BBD4148 26 spline clutch should swap out for the 10 spline.
Muncie tail on top.
And the Sachs BBD4148 26 spline clutch should swap out for the 10 spline.
I needed to bend up a 1/2 shifter rod to clear the speedo output on the oddball 82 T10 tail. Also needed to cut a mounting plate for the shifter. It all fits and shifts though.
The T10 is in. Launching with the T10 3.42 1st gear is much nicer than the Muncies 2.6 1st (running a 2.73 rear). The 1st/2nd spacing is noticably different but the other gears feel about the same.
No more leaks from the Muncie. It will be good not to have newspapers on the floor any more.
Sill working on the speed sensor. The ecu was not picking up the signal with VSS/reluctor (reverse gear) spacing at 0.100". Manufacturer spec is at 0.025" so I'll crank it in a little farther and test drive again.
No more leaks from the Muncie. It will be good not to have newspapers on the floor any more.
Sill working on the speed sensor. The ecu was not picking up the signal with VSS/reluctor (reverse gear) spacing at 0.100". Manufacturer spec is at 0.025" so I'll crank it in a little farther and test drive again.
We have success with the VSS. I cranked it down to 0.020" gap from the reluctor and it's reading a speed now. I have to have the ecu reprogrammed for a 39 tooth reluctor. Right now the ecu is maxed out at 158mph at around 20 mph.
After I get the ecu back, I'll try the cruise control.
After I get the ecu back, I'll try the cruise control.
Last edited by garys 68; Apr 15, 2012 at 11:21 AM.
Major success on cruise control. The VSS is reading correctly from the reverse gear reluctor.
And the cruise control engages and runs smoothly now. Releases when switched off or brakes engaged.
Still have a minor issue with DBW throttle body hanging when gas pedal is released and clutch engaged.
And the cruise control engages and runs smoothly now. Releases when switched off or brakes engaged.
Still have a minor issue with DBW throttle body hanging when gas pedal is released and clutch engaged.
just my 2 cents. I see your trying to keep sort of an original apeal with this build. if that is the case then you should change the intake to the propper 4 barrel setup and use an AccuFab 4 barrel throttle body.
http://www.accufabracing.com/index.p...150-4500.html#
http://www.accufabracing.com/index.p...150-4500.html#
Nice piece, but this was sort of a "budget" build. That TB costs more than my whole engine.
just my 2 cents. I see your trying to keep sort of an original apeal with this build. if that is the case then you should change the intake to the propper 4 barrel setup and use an AccuFab 4 barrel throttle body.
http://www.accufabracing.com/index.p...150-4500.html#
http://www.accufabracing.com/index.p...150-4500.html#
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I'm pretty sure LS3 intake is rectangular port, most trucks have cathedral port (L92 the exception). With a 5.3, you'll need a cathedral port. LS1, 2, or 6 intake will work.
5.3 bore isn't big enough for LS3 heads.
4.8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0 are all cathedral port. LS3, L92 are rectangle. LS& is different from both.
Get an engine, then find out what will work with it.
4.8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0 are all cathedral port. LS3, L92 are rectangle. LS& is different from both.
Get an engine, then find out what will work with it.
what gary said. even if you had a 6.0 (which is the minimum bore size for ls3/l92 style rectangular port heads) the ls2 cam has different profile than the rectangular port heads want.
Pick an engine/size, then get parts to fit that. or pick the engine based off the parts you want (I wanted ls3 heads to start with so i went with a 6.0 ls2 block, but its got a custom cam matched to the heads)
Pick an engine/size, then get parts to fit that. or pick the engine based off the parts you want (I wanted ls3 heads to start with so i went with a 6.0 ls2 block, but its got a custom cam matched to the heads)
Update: Problem with driveshaft length......
With the 1" setback mounts, the trans is moved 1/4 - 1/2" forward. Usually not an issue. However, my car had a GM 10 bolt rear, moving the driveshaft back another 1/2". Again, alone usually not much of an issue. My driveshaft came up 1/2" shorter than the spec for a muncie car. Combine all those and add in the stock yoke on these cars is only 5" long, I found the forward end of the yoke did not extend all the way through the trans tail bushing, big problem. Also confirmed a line in the trans tail bushing and on the yoke that it's not deep enough.
Ordered a 57 1/2" driveshaft with a 5 1/2" yoke from these guys.
http://southwestspeed.com/
New driveshaft.
And new trans tail busing and seal pressed in:
With the 1" setback mounts, the trans is moved 1/4 - 1/2" forward. Usually not an issue. However, my car had a GM 10 bolt rear, moving the driveshaft back another 1/2". Again, alone usually not much of an issue. My driveshaft came up 1/2" shorter than the spec for a muncie car. Combine all those and add in the stock yoke on these cars is only 5" long, I found the forward end of the yoke did not extend all the way through the trans tail bushing, big problem. Also confirmed a line in the trans tail bushing and on the yoke that it's not deep enough.
Ordered a 57 1/2" driveshaft with a 5 1/2" yoke from these guys.
http://southwestspeed.com/
New driveshaft.
And new trans tail busing and seal pressed in:
Driveshaft installed. I always thought the 1" clearance betwen trans tail and yoke was to allow for drive train movement. But full cycling of the rear axle doesnt move the yoke even 1/4" in and out. But putting it in I realized it's so you can slide it forward to get clearance for the u joint at the diff pinion yoke....duh.
Last edited by garys 68; Jun 25, 2012 at 10:34 PM.
The frame flexed too much to get accurate angles even with the rears on ramps and jackstands on the frame behind the front tires. I put it on 4 ramps to get driveline measurements.
You want the diveshaft as long as possible but still allowing to bolt it to the diff and allow for some movement. That's typically 3/4 to 1" between the trans and yoke end. In my case I measured the distance from the U joint centers, then added what I needed to get the yoke the correct depth in the trans.
I'll shoot some pics this week.
You want the diveshaft as long as possible but still allowing to bolt it to the diff and allow for some movement. That's typically 3/4 to 1" between the trans and yoke end. In my case I measured the distance from the U joint centers, then added what I needed to get the yoke the correct depth in the trans.
I'll shoot some pics this week.
Driveshaft installed with about 3/4" of the yoke exposed. THe new torque lock sliders are holding perfectly. Now my major issue is a whisle from the top of the drivers side window at hiway speed.
