Jeep YJ 5.3L swap (completed)
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From: Melbourne, FL.
I worked out of Detroit for a company in Blaine (North of Minneapolis) for 15 years. They wanted me to relocate to fill the slot left empty by a VP that retired. After spending some time there I figured out the winters were worse than they are in Detroit so I had to pass.
Have fun with the snow...
Ken
Have fun with the snow...
Ken
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The Jeep is my snow plow in the winter, just got 5" of snow. It doesn't go out of the driveway in the winter due to the plow on the front.
It's a great summer hot rod. I don't really four wheel it much. It's my everyday driver. How many LS swaps are driven everyday?
It's a great summer hot rod. I don't really four wheel it much. It's my everyday driver. How many LS swaps are driven everyday?
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Melbourne, FL.
Not much progress in the last couple of weeks. I had to do some traveling for work and I've been waiting on my mounts from Advance Adapters for 3 weeks now so I'm kind of stuck.
I did get lucky and was able to borrow a body cart from one of my neighbors. He builds prototype car stuff for the auto companies and had one that was not being used. It's nice not having the body sitting on blocks.
I did get lucky and was able to borrow a body cart from one of my neighbors. He builds prototype car stuff for the auto companies and had one that was not being used. It's nice not having the body sitting on blocks.
On The Tree
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I couldn't figure a way to make the truck headers work when I mocked them up. Im thinking about going with the Sanderson headers for my YJ swap. Im also going with the 241 Tcase. Im going with all new gauges for mine. Ill be wiring up a swith for 4lo and hooking into the factory setup with a 4WD tune.
Ive got the issue that I have to be emissions compliant so Ive got to worry about 4 O2 sensors, and all of the evap stuff as well. So I have to figure out how to make the Jeep fuel level sensors work with the PCM and somehow setup the fuel pressure sensor.
It did make preping the wire harness easier...
I couldn't figure a way to make the truck headers work when I mocked them up. Im thinking about going with the Sanderson headers for my YJ swap. Im also going with the 241 Tcase. Im going with all new gauges for mine. Ill be wiring up a swith for 4lo and hooking into the factory setup with a 4WD tune.
Ive got the issue that I have to be emissions compliant so Ive got to worry about 4 O2 sensors, and all of the evap stuff as well. So I have to figure out how to make the Jeep fuel level sensors work with the PCM and somehow setup the fuel pressure sensor.
It did make preping the wire harness easier... 
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2010
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I used headers for a 2000 camaro they had all the stuff for the smog the only thing is they only have the o2 sensor in one header not a big deal just put one on the other side and was great. They worked great for the CJ frame.
Here's what I did. Not YJ but a TJ.
Novak adapter from the 4l60e to the 231. I've done a 6.0 and a LS6 with a 231 behind the 6.0 and a 241R behind the LS6.
For the PCM to read the vss correctly the novak adapter has the pick up on the 4l60e mainshaft.
The drive shafts front and rear need to be modified. Rear lengthed and the front shortened. Radiator from Novak a bolt in with a tranny cooler.
I ran the left side exhaust around the front of the oil pan and merged it with the right side. 3 inch all the way out the back.
Home built frame mounts and Speedway universal engine mounts. Cut off the jeep motor mounts.
I mounted a 255 walbro in the Jeep tank. Corvete fuel filter regulator. Had to use an Autometer tach. GM computer signal will not talk to the stock Jeep tach.
I did the 8.8 swap. Works great.
Howell harness for the LS6 and 6.0 and they are truly plug and play.
Runs great. Starts at -25 degrees at the turn of the key. Great plow jeep for the winter. See pics
Novak adapter from the 4l60e to the 231. I've done a 6.0 and a LS6 with a 231 behind the 6.0 and a 241R behind the LS6.
For the PCM to read the vss correctly the novak adapter has the pick up on the 4l60e mainshaft.
The drive shafts front and rear need to be modified. Rear lengthed and the front shortened. Radiator from Novak a bolt in with a tranny cooler.
I ran the left side exhaust around the front of the oil pan and merged it with the right side. 3 inch all the way out the back.
Home built frame mounts and Speedway universal engine mounts. Cut off the jeep motor mounts.
I mounted a 255 walbro in the Jeep tank. Corvete fuel filter regulator. Had to use an Autometer tach. GM computer signal will not talk to the stock Jeep tach.
I did the 8.8 swap. Works great.
Howell harness for the LS6 and 6.0 and they are truly plug and play.
Runs great. Starts at -25 degrees at the turn of the key. Great plow jeep for the winter. See pics
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16-18 mpg depending on the driving. Around town in the summer 16.5. At 60 mph on the highway 18 mpg. Keep in mind it's like driving a brick with stuff like fenders and axles hanging out to catch the wind.
Hard to keep your foot out of it because it's so much fun.
Hard to compare to a 4.0 because the LS6 has at least 300 hp at the rear wheels.
Didn't build it for the mileage. Plows snow nice.
Hard to keep your foot out of it because it's so much fun.
Hard to compare to a 4.0 because the LS6 has at least 300 hp at the rear wheels.
Didn't build it for the mileage. Plows snow nice.
Thread Starter
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From: Melbourne, FL.
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I couldn't figure a way to make the truck headers work when I mocked them up. Im thinking about going with the Sanderson headers for my YJ swap. Im also going with the 241 Tcase. Im going with all new gauges for mine. Ill be wiring up a swith for 4lo and hooking into the factory setup with a 4WD tune.
Ive got the issue that I have to be emissions compliant so Ive got to worry about 4 O2 sensors, and all of the evap stuff as well. So I have to figure out how to make the Jeep fuel level sensors work with the PCM and somehow setup the fuel pressure sensor. It did make preping the wire harness easier...
I couldn't figure a way to make the truck headers work when I mocked them up. Im thinking about going with the Sanderson headers for my YJ swap. Im also going with the 241 Tcase. Im going with all new gauges for mine. Ill be wiring up a swith for 4lo and hooking into the factory setup with a 4WD tune.
Ive got the issue that I have to be emissions compliant so Ive got to worry about 4 O2 sensors, and all of the evap stuff as well. So I have to figure out how to make the Jeep fuel level sensors work with the PCM and somehow setup the fuel pressure sensor.
It did make preping the wire harness easier...I'm not at this stage yet so I can't say for sure if either one works.
Last edited by Docked Wage; Jan 22, 2011 at 04:39 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Melbourne, FL.
I have not dropped off the face of the earth. Been crazy busy at work and traveling quite a bit.
The good news is I finally got my motor mounts from Advanced Adapters. I also found a YJ Specific Aluminum Radiator with a Fan, Shroud, Trans Cooler and Steam Fitting for $400.00 on ebay. Superior Radiator is right here in Mount Clemens, Michigan so I went to the shop, checked it out and bought it on the spot.
The good news is I finally got my motor mounts from Advanced Adapters. I also found a YJ Specific Aluminum Radiator with a Fan, Shroud, Trans Cooler and Steam Fitting for $400.00 on ebay. Superior Radiator is right here in Mount Clemens, Michigan so I went to the shop, checked it out and bought it on the spot.
Thread Starter
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From: Melbourne, FL.
Explorer 8.8 Swap future planning? Down the road I plan to swap in an 8.8 that I got from an Explorer.
As of now I was planning on offsetting the engine to the right 1". Should I go further since the pinion on the 8.8 is almost 2" from where the stock Dana 35 is?
As of now I was planning on offsetting the engine to the right 1". Should I go further since the pinion on the 8.8 is almost 2" from where the stock Dana 35 is?
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2008
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Probably not much help, but my build thread = http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=152533
I see some info. in this thread that should be very helpful to me, thanks for sharing.
I see some info. in this thread that should be very helpful to me, thanks for sharing.
Thread Starter
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From: Melbourne, FL.
Sharpmachine,
From the pic in post #27 it looks like you might just be able to mill a few degrees off the face of the manifold and solve that problem.
Judging from your name it looks like that's something you can do if you can come up with an effective way to hold the manifold on the mill.
Ken
From the pic in post #27 it looks like you might just be able to mill a few degrees off the face of the manifold and solve that problem.
Judging from your name it looks like that's something you can do if you can come up with an effective way to hold the manifold on the mill.
Ken
On The Tree
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For the truck exhaust manifolds, I thought I read somewhere that a 1" Body Lift helps them fit. Also saw that somewhere that milling the face of the flange 7 degrees so they tip in tighter to the block helps too.
I'm not at this stage yet so I can't say for sure if either one works.
I'm not at this stage yet so I can't say for sure if either one works.
Last edited by jeepnut24; Jan 24, 2011 at 08:18 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Melbourne, FL.
Finally had some dry weather that was above freezing and got to do the sandblasting I've been waiting since December to do.
Now I should be able to get the body back on the frame and get this project back on track toward completion.
Now I should be able to get the body back on the frame and get this project back on track toward completion.
Thread Starter
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From: Melbourne, FL.
I've been travelling for work a lot lately but have been making progress. Here's what I've done in the last couple of weeks:
I swapped the output shaft from the 2wd style to the 4wd style in my 4L60E transmission.
I split the Jeep NP231 and the Chevy NP231 transfer cases and mixed and matched the parts so that the t-case would bolt to the 4l60E using the stock chevy adapter. I used the bigger chevy chain and planetary gear set inside and then used the Jeep output shaft and back half.
I machined a hole in the passenger side of the transfer case adapter and added a VSS between the t-case and transmission so I don't have to mess with finding shift tables since my PCM came from a 2wd truck. I used the advance adapters reluctor wheel and vss kit. It worked like a charm.
Next thing I need to do is bolt the trans to the engine and hang it over the frame so I can position the Engine Mounts.
Slow but sure progress.
I swapped the output shaft from the 2wd style to the 4wd style in my 4L60E transmission.
I split the Jeep NP231 and the Chevy NP231 transfer cases and mixed and matched the parts so that the t-case would bolt to the 4l60E using the stock chevy adapter. I used the bigger chevy chain and planetary gear set inside and then used the Jeep output shaft and back half.
I machined a hole in the passenger side of the transfer case adapter and added a VSS between the t-case and transmission so I don't have to mess with finding shift tables since my PCM came from a 2wd truck. I used the advance adapters reluctor wheel and vss kit. It worked like a charm.
Next thing I need to do is bolt the trans to the engine and hang it over the frame so I can position the Engine Mounts.
Slow but sure progress.
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From: Melbourne, FL.
I managed to get the powertrain assembly hanging over the frame today. I'm a bit disappointed that the Advance Adapters Engine mounts won't let me offset the engine 1" toward the passenger side. I'm on the farthest hole out on both sides so without fabricating a spacer block I won't be able to shift the motor over to the right.
I wanted to do that to make up for the additional offset the Ford 8.8 will have. I'm hoping this won't cause a vibration problem down the road.
I may just leave the D30 in until I get everything else sorted out. Prior to this I did not have any issues with vibrations so keeping it in for now will eliminate a variable.
I wanted to do that to make up for the additional offset the Ford 8.8 will have. I'm hoping this won't cause a vibration problem down the road.
I may just leave the D30 in until I get everything else sorted out. Prior to this I did not have any issues with vibrations so keeping it in for now will eliminate a variable.