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Clutch bleeding frustations

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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 03:54 PM
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Default Clutch bleeding frustations

(Wasn't sure if this belonged here or in Manual Transmissions. Please move if necessary.)

Got other issues sorted out, moved on to the "bleed the clutch" thing today, and of course, it didn't go anywhere near as planned.

2001 LS1/T56 into a '97 BMW Z3.

So, to start from the beginning -

New slave cylinder, stock BMW master cylinder, braided -3an line into a custom hardline going back to the BMW
quick connect fitting. When the old motor was removed, I pulled the clutch line, but left the BMW quick connect fitting and the ~10" of line attached to it connected at the master cylinder.

I do not have any sort of catch can attached to the bleeder valve on the slave cyl. I'm aware that this is the preferred way of doing things, but I bled the clutch on my LS1 Miata without using it and it worked out fine.

So, with a friend in the car and me underneath with the 12mm socket, I have him push the clutch in, I crack the valve, close it, and tell him to release. We do this, a lot, with no success other than fluid on me and the ground.

Frustrated, I remembered that there was still a clutch stop behind the pedal. Aha, the pedal doesn't have enough travel, right? Well, I removed it, and while it felt like there was now at least some pressure, I couldn't tell if it was just spring pressure from the master cylinder
or actual line pressure.

More bleeding, never gets any better. The clutch is air-light.

At this point, are my options just buying a pressure bleeder? Using those, isn't a catch-can still supposed to be attached to the bleeder valve on the slave cyl? What are you guys doing to get a catch can on this thing? I just put the tranny back in with the new slave cyl, and I'm very much not interested in pulling it back out again, as with the longtubes on the car and a 1-pc driveshaft, it's a bit of a PITA.

Thanks! (and sorry for the long post)
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 04:33 PM
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Are the lines on the right fittings? Bottom line to master and top to bleed?
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 07:21 PM
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Yes, the lines are not mixed up. I hate chevy for putting the slave inside the bellhousing and its not even my car.
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Coup D E'Tat
(Wasn't sure if this belonged here or in Manual Transmissions. Please move if necessary.)

Got other issues sorted out, moved on to the "bleed the clutch" thing today, and of course, it didn't go anywhere near as planned.

2001 LS1/T56 into a '97 BMW Z3.

So, to start from the beginning -

New slave cylinder, stock BMW master cylinder, braided -3an line into a custom hardline going back to the BMW
quick connect fitting. When the old motor was removed, I pulled the clutch line, but left the BMW quick connect fitting and the ~10" of line attached to it connected at the master cylinder.

I do not have any sort of catch can attached to the bleeder valve on the slave cyl. I'm aware that this is the preferred way of doing things, but I bled the clutch on my LS1 Miata without using it and it worked out fine.

So, with a friend in the car and me underneath with the 12mm socket, I have him push the clutch in, I crack the valve, close it, and tell him to release. We do this, a lot, with no success other than fluid on me and the ground.

Frustrated, I remembered that there was still a clutch stop behind the pedal. Aha, the pedal doesn't have enough travel, right? Well, I removed it, and while it felt like there was now at least some pressure, I couldn't tell if it was just spring pressure from the master cylinder
or actual line pressure.

More bleeding, never gets any better. The clutch is air-light.

At this point, are my options just buying a pressure bleeder? Using those, isn't a catch-can still supposed to be attached to the bleeder valve on the slave cyl? What are you guys doing to get a catch can on this thing? I just put the tranny back in with the new slave cyl, and I'm very much not interested in pulling it back out again, as with the longtubes on the car and a 1-pc driveshaft, it's a bit of a PITA.

Thanks! (and sorry for the long post)
I have had a lot of success bleeding clutches, the best way I find if you have a difficult one is to make sure the slave cylinder is fully pushed back all the way in (some you have to remove off the transmission) then crack the bleed screw, making sure its at the highest point, then gravity bleed till all the air is expelled, removal of the clutch/brake resevoir cap will help bleed easier.
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 10:22 PM
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Question.. What size piston is the BMW master your using ?... I recall the GM one is .750" with a 1" travel. Might be something to look into..?
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Old May 29, 2011 | 11:20 PM
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not sure how old this is but im having issues today. when i built my car i went to bleed my clutch and everything went fine. The next year i put in an ls7 clutch and flywheel with a new slave cyl and it bled fine again. I pulled the motor and tranny this winter for new heads and cam. I had it all back together today and the god damn thing will not bleed proper. I did manual cracking of the line with the pedal pressed as usual and nothing. So i adjusted the travel of my master cylinder off my clutch pedal and it seemed i was in the sweet spot before because any more travel starts causing fluid to bypass the aft seal and come dripping out onto my pedal. I ripped the passenger side of the motor apart down to taking off the valve cover and taping it off so i can get the stupid master cyl out. I opened it up and it had a bit of black grime in the back so i cleaned it and tested the seals and it pressurizes with no leaks so i just threw it back in. SOMEONE PLEASE IF YOU HAVE SOME IMPUT TO HELP ME OUT THIS IS DRIVING ME INSANE....
I am going to give it another shot tomorrow and see what i can do but i hope someone has more imput. thanks
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