08 ly6 in a 2000 Sonoma
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Rittman, Ohio
Got a supposedly working but hasnt been tested 4l80e coming to me, Was donated for the cause by another s10 swapper that ended up going the 4l60e route, All I had todo was pay for shipping so got a 4l80e out of a 01 express van for $150. A buddy and I are going to rebuild it with a Jakes stage 2 kit.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Rittman, Ohio
Aslong as you have the correct ecu to control it (e38 or e67) then I dont see why it should be removed. I havent had a problem with my vvt and from charts Ive seen it seems that it helps flatten out the tq range. Gm seems to be putting it on the new gen 5 engines I dont know if its on all or not but its in the new vette. So maybe theyll finally put it in an engine that has a manual.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Rittman, Ohio
Picked up the 80e that was shipped to a terminal here. From all the reading I was expecting something crazy heavy. Without the convertor its not that bad, I was able to lift it with the pallet out of the bed of my truck and onto the floor by myself, Ya Im that beastly .
Oh also got this when I was about 40 miles from my house on the way back!!
All lugs sheared right off. never a wobble in the steering wheel just cruising through a small town and all of a sudden a loud sputtering sound like a exhaust pipe fell off or something so I turn down a side road to pull over and bam front end drops and wheel goes sailing into someones yard. No wear marks on the wheels so they werent moving around on the lugs.
DAMMIT!
Oh also got this when I was about 40 miles from my house on the way back!!
All lugs sheared right off. never a wobble in the steering wheel just cruising through a small town and all of a sudden a loud sputtering sound like a exhaust pipe fell off or something so I turn down a side road to pull over and bam front end drops and wheel goes sailing into someones yard. No wear marks on the wheels so they werent moving around on the lugs.
DAMMIT!
Last edited by tiresmokinV8; Oct 26, 2012 at 07:36 PM.
Wow! On the positive side, you are still around to complain about it. That could have been really bad with speed!
Sorry about the truck, at least it's repairable - and you have something else to drive.
Sorry about the truck, at least it's repairable - and you have something else to drive.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Rittman, Ohio
Yea Atleast I wasnt going more then 25mph at that moment. I have a buddy that owns a custom paint and body shop that I already talked to. Hell do whatever body work that might be done and paint the new fender and blend it all for the cost of supplies and supply the beer.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Rittman, Ohio
Thinking about it that caliper did freeze up on me about a month ago and I drove like that for about 10 miles to get home just had to have a strong hold on the steering wheel and foot on the gas, It got hot enough to turn the caliper that hot bluish color like sheetmetal gets when welding or having a torch to it. Wonder if that weakened the studs?
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I'm really surprised you are going to the 4l80, but I have found it really easy to go quick with mine, and so have many others. I like the fti converter. Sorry about your wheel falling off. It happened to me once.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Rittman, Ohio
For what I do I find the 6sp a real pain to drive in stop and go city traffic, which is all I drive. Mostly its the grippy clutch and light back end making it hard to drive smoothly. Maybe if Ihad a stock clutch like an ls7 it would be better, Plus an auto should be easier to launch Im hoping. 80e is a no brainer, I dont want to deal with the 60e that could break even when built. Plus my ecu should finally be happy with an auto hooked to it. Adding a tcm inline did manage to get the vss relayed to the ecu so that works now but it just caused more issues like hanging rpm when slowly shifting anywhere above 2k rpms and an idle that highly and slowly comes down to where its supposed to be after a few secs. Cant seem to figure it out. I zeroed out all the base running airflow above 2k and its still hangs. Before the tcm install if I had it zeroed it would drop too fast between shifts so I put in some airflow in those higher cells and got it where I liked it but now I cant get it to stop hanging. My dfco does work now and has been verified to work via the scanner.
For what I do I find the 6sp a real pain to drive in stop and go city traffic, which is all I drive. Mostly its the grippy clutch and light back end making it hard to drive smoothly. Maybe if Ihad a stock clutch like an ls7 it would be better, Plus an auto should be easier to launch Im hoping. 80e is a no brainer, I dont want to deal with the 60e that could break even when built. Plus my ecu should finally be happy with an auto hooked to it. Adding a tcm inline did manage to get the vss relayed to the ecu so that works now but it just caused more issues like hanging rpm when slowly shifting anywhere above 2k rpms and an idle that highly and slowly comes down to where its supposed to be after a few secs. Cant seem to figure it out. I zeroed out all the base running airflow above 2k and its still hangs. Before the tcm install if I had it zeroed it would drop too fast between shifts so I put in some airflow in those higher cells and got it where I liked it but now I cant get it to stop hanging. My dfco does work now and has been verified to work via the scanner.
It will be easier to launch with a good converter. I am having issues with my converter not locking after stop and go traffic, but a quick turning the key off and on resets it and the converter locks. It also locks in third gear which is nice in traffic at lower speeds. Hp tuners locked me out of my tune, due to a glitch with the LY6 and 4L80e van program, but efi live is fine.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Rittman, Ohio
Im running an os for a '10 colorado v8. The tcm is currently only getting a vss signal and relaying it to the ecu. Im going to send my engine harness and tcm back to Current Performance to have it rewired for an auto and have the tcm programmed for a 4l80. Not sure what trans the tcm is currently set up for,
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Rittman, Ohio
Back on all fours, Steering feels fine as do the brakes. Hopefully nothing besides the fender is busted now. Grabbed new ARP studs, new lug nuts, dust cap and cleaned out the bearings to see how they felt which they were still smooth so I repacked them and put it all back together.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Rittman, Ohio
Well Santa brought me this today.
Jakes Stage 2 kit.
Also have a bunch of the specialty tools to aid in this endeavor.
Think I have everything for the rebuild now. Just have to schedule a time with my buddy to rebuild it.
Jakes Stage 2 kit.
Also have a bunch of the specialty tools to aid in this endeavor.
Think I have everything for the rebuild now. Just have to schedule a time with my buddy to rebuild it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 734
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From: Rittman, Ohio
Whats included in the stage 2 kit
"4L80E BASIC KIT-
This is a basic rebuild kit with all new frictions, steels, paper/rubber set, filter, front band, pump, case, and output bushing. We always use the '97-up style kit as it will work fine on the earlier units and includes the better friction materials.
4L80E FULL REBUILD KIT-
Includes all the components of the BASIC kit but adds a full set of bushings, thrust washers, OEM rear band, and low roller clutch.
4L80E STAGE II KIT-
All the rebuild components we use to build our STAGE II units.
Everything above plus new shift solenoids, internal harness, boost valve, HD intermediate snap ring, upgraded friction count for direct, rear torrington bearing, machined forward hub with torrington bearing, 34 element sprag, OD roller clutch, and instructions/parts to make your own hydraulic improvements without buying a valve body kit."
"4L80E BASIC KIT-
This is a basic rebuild kit with all new frictions, steels, paper/rubber set, filter, front band, pump, case, and output bushing. We always use the '97-up style kit as it will work fine on the earlier units and includes the better friction materials.
4L80E FULL REBUILD KIT-
Includes all the components of the BASIC kit but adds a full set of bushings, thrust washers, OEM rear band, and low roller clutch.
4L80E STAGE II KIT-
All the rebuild components we use to build our STAGE II units.
Everything above plus new shift solenoids, internal harness, boost valve, HD intermediate snap ring, upgraded friction count for direct, rear torrington bearing, machined forward hub with torrington bearing, 34 element sprag, OD roller clutch, and instructions/parts to make your own hydraulic improvements without buying a valve body kit."
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 734
Likes: 0
From: Rittman, Ohio
Not much new, Been working 55hr weeks to help pay for the auto swap project and my basement remodel which like everything is snowballing but will be pretty badass when done. Bought ls1 fbody brakes to install and an ac delete heater only box.
