best option for lsx sn95
#1
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best option for lsx sn95
so i've been kicking the idea around in my head of having a dedicated track car, and just keep my '00 SS the way it is as a daily. so i'm thinking gutted, no a/c, no ps, no radio etc etc. i would love to do an sn95 lq9, th400, built 8.8 and depending on budget a little spray. so anyways, i'm not sure whether to look for a roller v6 for super cheap, then transplant an 8.8 and go from there. or to grab a ragged out gt for like 2-3k sell the motor, trans, wiring harness, interior, sterio system etc etc.
anyways i've owned an sn95 before, and i obviously own an lsx. so i'm not a noob to either platform. however i've never really looked into lsx swapping a stang. first off i know i need an AJE k-member with the MU-30 mounts, and an MU-7061 crossmember for the th400(just by looking at the website). but my question to you guys is what other ls swap specific issues would i run into? headers? steering? driveshaft? wiring? i think if it's one thing that scares me away from a ground up build it'd be wiring.
anyways i've owned an sn95 before, and i obviously own an lsx. so i'm not a noob to either platform. however i've never really looked into lsx swapping a stang. first off i know i need an AJE k-member with the MU-30 mounts, and an MU-7061 crossmember for the th400(just by looking at the website). but my question to you guys is what other ls swap specific issues would i run into? headers? steering? driveshaft? wiring? i think if it's one thing that scares me away from a ground up build it'd be wiring.
Last edited by brian_rs/ss; 02-01-2011 at 09:40 AM.
#2
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Steering - Flaming river rack if you're losing the p/s.
driveshaft - Do a search here, all it takes is a specific u joint, you re-use the mustang driveshaft.
wiring - you can buy a standalone harness from a variety of vendors or board members OR have speartech rework a stock harness for you.
#4
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Headers - I believe Kooks & Dynatech both make direct fit swap headers for this application.
Steering - Flaming river rack if you're losing the p/s.
driveshaft - Do a search here, all it takes is a specific u joint, you re-use the mustang driveshaft.
wiring - you can buy a standalone harness from a variety of vendors or board members OR have speartech rework a stock harness for you.
Steering - Flaming river rack if you're losing the p/s.
driveshaft - Do a search here, all it takes is a specific u joint, you re-use the mustang driveshaft.
wiring - you can buy a standalone harness from a variety of vendors or board members OR have speartech rework a stock harness for you.
steering- i'm assuming a direct fit onto the aje k-member?
driveshaft- by re-using the stocker would it handle the power a modded 6.0 would be putting out? in my case the car would be on a trans brake with slicks. so maybe an aftermarket would be best for me?
wiring- pardon my ignorance for wiring, but i assumed that i would use a GM PCM and modified harness. is that not the case? also i assume that all the wiring for lights, fan, non motor related stuff stays ford? and what about wiring and plumbing for the fuel system? would all the ford stuff get trashed for a custom ran system?
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Did you guys come across the thread 96 Mustang GT lsx swap by 96gtdan? If not search it out, he did a great job of documenting his build. I know he helped me out a bunch!
#7
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headers- i saw the kooks but they only list having headers for fox body years.
steering- i'm assuming a direct fit onto the aje k-member?
driveshaft- by re-using the stocker would it handle the power a modded 6.0 would be putting out? in my case the car would be on a trans brake with slicks. so maybe an aftermarket would be best for me?
wiring- pardon my ignorance for wiring, but i assumed that i would use a GM PCM and modified harness. is that not the case? also i assume that all the wiring for lights, fan, non motor related stuff stays ford? and what about wiring and plumbing for the fuel system? would all the ford stuff get trashed for a custom ran system?
steering- i'm assuming a direct fit onto the aje k-member?
driveshaft- by re-using the stocker would it handle the power a modded 6.0 would be putting out? in my case the car would be on a trans brake with slicks. so maybe an aftermarket would be best for me?
wiring- pardon my ignorance for wiring, but i assumed that i would use a GM PCM and modified harness. is that not the case? also i assume that all the wiring for lights, fan, non motor related stuff stays ford? and what about wiring and plumbing for the fuel system? would all the ford stuff get trashed for a custom ran system?
steering - yes, direct fit to the aje k member with the stock rack or a variety of aftermarket pieces.
driveshaft- not sure what the capacity is for the stocker, an aftermarket one may be required
Wiring - your assumptions are correct. You can use a modified gm harness or have a new one made up. Either would operate as a stand-alone. other vehicle wiring (lights, interior...) would utilize the oem ford stuff.
99mustang5.3 is 100% correct about 96gtdan's build thread. Lots of documentation and very helpful. Its about 12 pages and well worth the time it takes to read every entry. Here is the link
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-lsx-swap.html
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#9
You might wanna consider gettin a 4.6 car. I met a guy at the track that had an lq4 in one and he said you can use that stock k member. Dyantech used an sn95 to fabricate their headers. And custom driveshafts are pretty reasonable, thats the roue I'm goin on my 90 gt swap and its only gonna cost $280 at a local driveline shop. If you've messed with many stangs you know those bitches'll snap leavin on slicks and dope.
#10
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Can someone show me a picture of a OEM driveshaft breaking in a Mustang? I've never seen one break before.
If you read the dynatech website, it says you must you a tube K-member and tubular control arms.
If you read the dynatech website, it says you must you a tube K-member and tubular control arms.
#11
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I've got an 95 fobra sitting in my garage, ford posi, moser axles, 373 gears, frpp driveshaft. All of it held up just fine with 450rwhp and countless 5k clutch dumps. Let me know if you're interested. Can get you pics if you want. Also speartech makes good stuff, so wiring shouldn't be too scary.
#12
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ok well the driveshaft can be easily dealt with. hell even if i end up breaking the stocker it's not that big of a deal. this is going to be a track only car, so breakage doesn't scare me. now the other question is do i keep the 28 spline axles or upgrade to 31? i've searched and searched and haven't found a definitive answer that says at what point 31 splines are neccessary. i mean if i'm going to replace the entire guts of the rear end that changes my uproach to this completely. i might as well buy a gutted, roller v6 for super cheap rather than trying to start with a gt.
btw read 96gtdan's thread, it's got some good stuff in there. also i found another thread that had a lot of wiring diagrams and a fuel system layout that would be super helpful. i'll find the link to that one later and post it.
btw anybody have any insite as to what options i should choose when buying a th400? trans brake and manual valve body are both priorities. and looking at TCI's website they offer a million different combo's for these trannies.
btw read 96gtdan's thread, it's got some good stuff in there. also i found another thread that had a lot of wiring diagrams and a fuel system layout that would be super helpful. i'll find the link to that one later and post it.
btw anybody have any insite as to what options i should choose when buying a th400? trans brake and manual valve body are both priorities. and looking at TCI's website they offer a million different combo's for these trannies.
#13
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If you are doing a gutted racecar I would suggest ripping the complete harness out and doing a base harness from www.ezwiring.com for the lights, ignition, etc.
then use a speartech for the engine (if you are keeping it efi) or the MSD 6010/6012 if you are going carbed.
You will probably save 50 lbs pulling all of the ford wiring out
Using Dynatech headers, AJE kmember and mounts and the engine pretty much falls into place.
I had a driveshaft made for my car and it was very reasonable in price.
My car has a stock 8.8 /3.73s and I haven't had any issues yet although it is being built this winter.
Steering isn't too bad if you just loop the lines and don't run power steering, or you can buy the flaming river manual rack
then use a speartech for the engine (if you are keeping it efi) or the MSD 6010/6012 if you are going carbed.
You will probably save 50 lbs pulling all of the ford wiring out
Using Dynatech headers, AJE kmember and mounts and the engine pretty much falls into place.
I had a driveshaft made for my car and it was very reasonable in price.
My car has a stock 8.8 /3.73s and I haven't had any issues yet although it is being built this winter.
Steering isn't too bad if you just loop the lines and don't run power steering, or you can buy the flaming river manual rack
#14
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i have a 93 that im just using for the track. i havent decided on AC or not but i live in Florida so its hot. i used AJE and kooks headers. lots of room but my t56 is tight in the tunnel with the reverse lockout. had a stock camaro harness modified by current performance in Florida. heres a link
http://www.currentperformance.com/
Rich
http://www.currentperformance.com/
Rich
#16
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If you are doing a gutted racecar I would suggest ripping the complete harness out and doing a base harness from www.ezwiring.com for the lights, ignition, etc.
then use a speartech for the engine (if you are keeping it efi) or the MSD 6010/6012 if you are going carbed.
You will probably save 50 lbs pulling all of the ford wiring out
Using Dynatech headers, AJE kmember and mounts and the engine pretty much falls into place.
I had a driveshaft made for my car and it was very reasonable in price.
My car has a stock 8.8 /3.73s and I haven't had any issues yet although it is being built this winter.
Steering isn't too bad if you just loop the lines and don't run power steering, or you can buy the flaming river manual rack
then use a speartech for the engine (if you are keeping it efi) or the MSD 6010/6012 if you are going carbed.
You will probably save 50 lbs pulling all of the ford wiring out
Using Dynatech headers, AJE kmember and mounts and the engine pretty much falls into place.
I had a driveshaft made for my car and it was very reasonable in price.
My car has a stock 8.8 /3.73s and I haven't had any issues yet although it is being built this winter.
Steering isn't too bad if you just loop the lines and don't run power steering, or you can buy the flaming river manual rack
#17
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