Tx98Formula

iTrader: (3)

yesterday i pulled out most of the interior, including the entire dash. The dash is actually in much better shape then i thought, only one small crack up by the clock. The metal peice that holds the defrost vents will need to be recovered in vinyl, and i'll still need the radio surround and the big piece that goes around the speedo that houses the turn signal lever and such, but pretty much everything else is definatly fixable.

When i pulled out the rear speakers i took out the foam that was in there and found a shaved down key, kind of a weird thing to find, i tried it in the door looks and such and it didn't work so not exactly sure why that was in there.. Since the car doesn't have a title yet i called to make sure it wasn't reported stolen or anything (it came back clear!), and i found out what all i had to do to get a title so hopefully that will be done soon.

TTLS1GP

iTrader: (10)

I would have a closer look at the *** end of that car. The pump access should be very close to centered on that access pannel and not partially covered to the point of bending it out to get the flange screws.

I have 4 cars here and only one has a slight issue like this and it was because it was punched in the rear. It may be that the tank is just loose or shifted but it doesn't look right either way.

Oh, and to answer your question about the tank, I would take it down, clean it and plasti-dip (with the appropriate product) the inside to prevent future corrosion or leaks. Takes less than 15min and is worth it in the end.

Tx98Formula

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=TTLS1GP;14512282]I would have a closer look at the *** end of that car. The pump access should be very close to centered on that access pannel and not partially covered to the point of bending it out to get the flange screws.
QUOTE]

I've kinda been thinking the same thing, the guy i got the car from said it has a clean title (but was of course lost) and when i called yesterday they said it is still listed under a clean title, but i noticed this the other day also


as you can see the driver side tail light sticks out a little bit, i pulled the light out thinking that maybe it was just poorly installed, but it doesn't fit all the way in. The light edges are flush all the way around except for at that one point. I have all the carpet removed from the rear, looked at the bottom of where the spare tire goes and there was a little denting but nothing major at all, i pounded it out with some wood and a hammer, with the light out i can't see any damage, the body doesn't show any damage either (other then the light not fitting correctly). I haven't gottin under the car just yet, i might run out there real quick and check it out since i'm home all this week with my son who has the flu, poor kid... Can anyone tell me what i really need to check for? i plan i swapping in a different rear end anyways so if its damaged i don't really care, the car rolls just fine also..

Tx98Formula

iTrader: (3)

I'm thinking about just picking up a truck engine wire harness here soon so i can go ahead and start all the wiring, i know the f-body harness is preferred, but from what i have read today the truck harness can be used with pretty much the same modifications, plus it seems like you can get the truck harnesses for alittle cheaper. Since its going to be a while till i can get a motor/trans i just want to get everything else ready and set up so all i really have to do is drop it in and tie up a few loose ends..

also i pulled out all of the interior today, looked in the back and i can't see any damage to show why the tank would be off center, the tank is tight in place also, maybe it was just half *** put back in and they didn't take the time to line it up?? i didn't get the jack out to lift up the back and take a good look under the car, but nothing on the inside is messed up..

TTLS1GP

iTrader: (10)

It is best to get the wiring harness/computer for the engine series you are getting. Wait and get them together or at least after the engine.

What to look for in the car as far as damage? well look at the rear frame horns and see if there is any crimping or wrinkling in at the bumper. Flaking undercoating/paint or rusting areas are signs of previous repairs or damage.

Tx98Formula

iTrader: (3)

I just get bored since i can't spend any big money on the car right now so i've been trying to find things i can take care of now, the truck harnesses are cheap, but i also just found out that they require extensive modification so thats gonna wait till i get a motor and everything together.

I looked for wrinkling and paint flaking from the inside of the car right after i posted that and i couldn't find anything. Looking under the car is going to have to wait, i'm pretty sure my son gave both my wife and i the flu so we are both home sick.

anyone have any idea how long the stock n/a rear end might last in one of these things? I want to eventually go with a solid rear, but the grannys kit is pretty expensive, how difficult is it to fab a 4-link setup, or what would be a good way or getting a solid rear in there without using the grannys kit.

devlmaycry

iTrader: (2)

As much as it sucks saving the money for some of the good prefab stuff is worth it. There's not a whole lot, but more than most want to do, of math and stuff for drive line angle and stuff like that. A lot fo people who want to mix and match end up spending more in the end. Just look around getting everthing one part at a time.

There's a few things you don't want to be cheap on. The engine/harness set, suspension upgrades, and hookers.

My 240sx I'm doing my own wiring mods, but not mixing and matching. My mount kit is prefab except for the trans, and my suspension stuff was all "store" bought from mutliple places.

Anyways, good luck with your build! It looks to be sweet once your done!