Ok...I am swapping an LS1 into a 95 Z-28. A few questions...hope they're not too dumb. Keep in mind this is my first major automotive undertaking.

1. Headers- Long tube or mid? I am getting the LS1 steering linkage and am using an LS1 k-member so clearnace shouldn't be an issue. Just curious about how they will match up to the LT-1 stock exhaust pipes. Also considering an electric cut out just for fun....not making a drag car or anything. Any suggestion on which headers would work best?

2. Emissions or not? I think it would just make things alot simpler to go with out. I'm in South Carolina so its no big deal. Benefits? Drawbacks?

3. Tuner?- This is ultimately going to be my son's fiirst car (father son project) I have heard there are tuners that can be used to set "limits". He hates the idea but he's my only son and I would like the family name to continue! I know...then why am I giving him a Z-28? Because I had one and I remember that time of working in the garage with my dad after practice and homework. So...I guess trying to just pass on a "feeling" that I benefited from.

I appreciate any ideas, be it on these topics or others, you might think will be helpful

 

You could always set the rev limiter at 4000 RPM. That would definitely slow him down.

You can also buy monitors you plug into the OBDII port. They record speed and panic stops. i couldn't find a link, most places have switched to GPS monitors.

 

If you're buying the headers new go longtubes and get the matching y-pipe and it will mate up to the LT1 catback. If you find a good deal on used I would consider mids but only if it is a budget issue. Keeping emissions is your call. For tuning you likely can't use a handheld to adjust the tach pulses so HPtuners or EFI live would be the options.

 

Thanks...i'm still learning all the terms....would the mids need the y pipe also?

 

My last swap I used the ebay longtubes for 150.00 can't beat that deal. delete all emmissions it'll makew it way easier

 

You will need a full standalone (on a laptop) tune program or someone who has access to one to delete the VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System) in the PCM. With that enabled the engine will only start and die without running longer than a few seconds. This can not be done by any hand held tuners as far as I am aware. There are several companies on the board and a few individuals who will do this work for $150 or less. You will need a "typical" standalone tune which will delete the security and remove all the emissions stuff.

Most hand held tuners are capable of setting the speed limiter which I would use before changing the rev limiter. Factory true LS1 F-Body engines are set to 160, while most trucks top out between 95 and 110 depending on model and options. I can't remember where the Y-Body (Corvette) cars top at in the tunes but that would be a more effective way to limit the car than RPM.

 

In an F-body the VATS can stay full functional in a swap the fuel enable signal is the same