Engine/trans not straight in car, problem???
Engine/trans not straight in car, problem??? I finally got around to test fitting the LS1/4L60 in my 95 mustang. I had some difficulty getting the AJE trans crossmember installed. I ended up having to extend one of the slots in the mount in order to get it to bolt up. I didn't think I should have to do that, anybody else have this issue? It may just be my car, I also had some difficulty getting one of the pairs of bolts to line up at the subframe when I installed the AJE k-member (it was months ago, can't remember which side).
So the concern is this, if the engine & trans are installed at a slight angle will there be problems? Will I be chasing a driveline vibration problem, rifle thru u-joints, break mounts, ........? Any input appreciated!
So the concern is this, if the engine & trans are installed at a slight angle will there be problems? Will I be chasing a driveline vibration problem, rifle thru u-joints, break mounts, ........? Any input appreciated!
I finally got around to test fitting the LS1/4L60 in my 95 mustang. I had some difficulty getting the AJE trans crossmember installed. I ended up having to extend one of the slots in the mount in order to get it to bolt up. I didn't think I should have to do that, anybody else have this issue? It may just be my car, I also had some difficulty getting one of the pairs of bolts to line up at the subframe when I installed the AJE k-member (it was months ago, can't remember which side).
So the concern is this, if the engine & trans are installed at a slight angle will there be problems? Will I be chasing a driveline vibration problem, rifle thru u-joints, break mounts, ........? Any input appreciated!
So the concern is this, if the engine & trans are installed at a slight angle will there be problems? Will I be chasing a driveline vibration problem, rifle thru u-joints, break mounts, ........? Any input appreciated!
This should help: Spicer Tech Paper
Read the whole thing, especially starting on page 8.
Andrew
The output shaft of the transmission and the pinion gear need to be parallel, not only when viewed from the side, bust also when viewed from the top (or bottom). If they aren't parallel, you will be chasing driveline vibrations.
This should help: Spicer Tech Paper
Read the whole thing, especially starting on page 8.
Andrew
This should help: Spicer Tech Paper
Read the whole thing, especially starting on page 8.
Andrew
Andrew
From p.11 of the above reference:
Note: It is important to remember to keep the centerlines of two components that are connected by a driveshaft parallel in both the top and side views, so the operating angles will ALWAYS be equal.
Not good, if my engine/trans is angled than there is no way the centerlines could be parallel (unless the rearend is out of whack by the same angle, lol). Guess I better get that things lined up.
Note: It is important to remember to keep the centerlines of two components that are connected by a driveshaft parallel in both the top and side views, so the operating angles will ALWAYS be equal.
Not good, if my engine/trans is angled than there is no way the centerlines could be parallel (unless the rearend is out of whack by the same angle, lol). Guess I better get that things lined up.
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I finally got around to test fitting the LS1/4L60 in my 95 mustang. I had some difficulty getting the AJE trans crossmember installed. I ended up having to extend one of the slots in the mount in order to get it to bolt up. I didn't think I should have to do that, anybody else have this issue? It may just be my car, I also had some difficulty getting one of the pairs of bolts to line up at the subframe when I installed the AJE k-member (it was months ago, can't remember which side).
So the concern is this, if the engine & trans are installed at a slight angle will there be problems? Will I be chasing a driveline vibration problem, rifle thru u-joints, break mounts, ........? Any input appreciated!
So the concern is this, if the engine & trans are installed at a slight angle will there be problems? Will I be chasing a driveline vibration problem, rifle thru u-joints, break mounts, ........? Any input appreciated!
I have the engine setting in it with a t56.Still need to finish the trans cross member,clutch,wiring etc.......
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I don't think so but I'm no pro in this department. The previous owner bought it in 97 & kept it until last winter when I picked it up. Its had some track time, the po had a stroked & supercharged sb ford in it (so it probably ran mid 13's, lol). He showed me a little bit of damage to the bottom of the core support that happened when loading it on a trailer one night, other than that there is no evidence of an accident. The paint matches on the body & under the car, body lines line up good,..... I really don't think its been wrecked.
I'm not sure how to proceed here. Do I:
1) slot the motor mount bolt holes to get the engine/trans straight with the car & not worry about the k-member being straight & square with the rest of the car
2)slot the k-member mounting holes & try to get it straight & square with the rest of the car
Something tells me I'd better go with #2 above. I don't know jack chit about alignment work but I have to believe the k-member needs to be closely aligned with the rearend. Any tips here?
I'm not sure how to proceed here. Do I:
1) slot the motor mount bolt holes to get the engine/trans straight with the car & not worry about the k-member being straight & square with the rest of the car
2)slot the k-member mounting holes & try to get it straight & square with the rest of the car
Something tells me I'd better go with #2 above. I don't know jack chit about alignment work but I have to believe the k-member needs to be closely aligned with the rearend. Any tips here?
You can do some basic chassis checks with some attention to detail and a tape measure. If you can find a body dimensions manual for your car, that would be great. If not, pick some points on the chassis in the rear and in the front. The lower rear control arm mounting points will work. In the front you can use the K-member mounts. Measure the distance from front to back on each side. It should be the same on the left and right. Then measure the diagonals, they should also be the same. If not, then you have some chassis problems.
I have a hard time believing that the K-member holes are that far off. It is most likely the motor mounts, but it is hard to say without measuring everything. Good luck and keep us posted.
Andrew
I have a hard time believing that the K-member holes are that far off. It is most likely the motor mounts, but it is hard to say without measuring everything. Good luck and keep us posted.
Andrew
You can do some basic chassis checks with some attention to detail and a tape measure. If you can find a body dimensions manual for your car, that would be great. If not, pick some points on the chassis in the rear and in the front. The lower rear control arm mounting points will work. In the front you can use the K-member mounts. Measure the distance from front to back on each side. It should be the same on the left and right. Then measure the diagonals, they should also be the same. If not, then you have some chassis problems.
I have a hard time believing that the K-member holes are that far off. It is most likely the motor mounts, but it is hard to say without measuring everything. Good luck and keep us posted.
Andrew
I have a hard time believing that the K-member holes are that far off. It is most likely the motor mounts, but it is hard to say without measuring everything. Good luck and keep us posted.
Andrew
Not sure when I'll have time to get back to work on the car but I'll be sure to update this thread when I take the measurements. Unfortunately my gut tells me that either the k-member is not good & square (could be a result of the weld procedure) or the car is tweaked. I'll blame the car either way, fu%#ing Ford.
Andrew, thanks for the info. I'm familiar with attention to detail w/measurements, I used to do a little qc work.
Not sure when I'll have time to get back to work on the car but I'll be sure to update this thread when I take the measurements. Unfortunately my gut tells me that either the k-member is not good & square (could be a result of the weld procedure) or the car is tweaked. I'll blame the car either way, fu%#ing Ford.
Not sure when I'll have time to get back to work on the car but I'll be sure to update this thread when I take the measurements. Unfortunately my gut tells me that either the k-member is not good & square (could be a result of the weld procedure) or the car is tweaked. I'll blame the car either way, fu%#ing Ford.
Andrew
You sure you have the correct motor mounts and trans mount? AJE sent me two different motor mounts the first go around which was a headache. I do remember having to slot one of the holes in the chassis for the trans xmember and i believe it was the passenger side. Everything appears to be lined up now and damn does the trans crossmember really screw you with making an exhaust.
You sure you have the correct motor mounts and trans mount? AJE sent me two different motor mounts the first go around which was a headache. I do remember having to slot one of the holes in the chassis for the trans xmember and i believe it was the passenger side. Everything appears to be lined up now and damn does the trans crossmember really screw you with making an exhaust.
I'm not terribly impressed with AJE's product but I work in the tube forming industry & am surrounded some excellent tig welders. Anyway, I will say AJE's customer service (so far) has been outstanding. After the initial mockup I questioned their motor mounts since they could be installed 2 different ways & the directions were non-existant. They provided me pics of installed mounts & explained the differences. After getting it re-installed with the mounts flipped the original trans mount wouldn't line up. 1 call & they were building me an offset mount & sending me a UPS call tag for the original - at no cost! They get a thumbs up for support after the sale, this all happened about 6 months after the original purchase.
