Sensor delete/fuse double check
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 16
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From: Lacey, WA
Sensor delete/fuse double check I'm hoping that someone on here will double check that I am removing the right sensors from my swap and also double check the fuses I will need. I am swapping a 6.0 and a 4l80E into a '78 chevy C10.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I can delete the ECL plug, the MAF/IAT plug that is near the transmission, both rear o2 sensors, the two sensors that are near the rear of the engine that are unnamed, To me at least, that don't plug into anything (I suspect that these are washer fluid sensors or something, both A/C plugs since I don't have A/C, the 7-pin connector that is on the tranny that plugs into nothing and the 4-pin park/neutral switch that goes to nothing.
I will be keeping all the plugs that are on the engine. However, do I need to run the evap sensor? I would assume no, but assuming makes an as... well, you know...
The fuses that I should need are
15A for O2 sensors. Always hot.
15A for OBDII connector. Always hot.
15A Injectors odd and coils odd. Run/Start
15A Injectors even and coils even. Run/Start
20A ECMB. Always hot.
10A ECM1. Run/Start.
10A Ignition. Run/Start. (Wired this to my stock ignition.)
Also, I can just take apart the underhood fuse plug and wire the wires I will need into another fuse box.
Thanks to anyone who can double check any bit of this. I just need a little bit of reassurance because the most technical thing I have ever done on any automobile is change the brakes. This swap is a big leap for me! Thanks to anyone who helps.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I can delete the ECL plug, the MAF/IAT plug that is near the transmission, both rear o2 sensors, the two sensors that are near the rear of the engine that are unnamed, To me at least, that don't plug into anything (I suspect that these are washer fluid sensors or something, both A/C plugs since I don't have A/C, the 7-pin connector that is on the tranny that plugs into nothing and the 4-pin park/neutral switch that goes to nothing.
I will be keeping all the plugs that are on the engine. However, do I need to run the evap sensor? I would assume no, but assuming makes an as... well, you know...
The fuses that I should need are
15A for O2 sensors. Always hot.
15A for OBDII connector. Always hot.
15A Injectors odd and coils odd. Run/Start
15A Injectors even and coils even. Run/Start
20A ECMB. Always hot.
10A ECM1. Run/Start.
10A Ignition. Run/Start. (Wired this to my stock ignition.)
Also, I can just take apart the underhood fuse plug and wire the wires I will need into another fuse box.
Thanks to anyone who can double check any bit of this. I just need a little bit of reassurance because the most technical thing I have ever done on any automobile is change the brakes. This swap is a big leap for me! Thanks to anyone who helps.
MAF is up to you if you want to go SD or not. IAT is required for any engine
Next, you dont want HO2s to have 12v constant. They will kill your battery in a few hours, give them switched
Join the ALDL, PCM 12v constant and fuel pump relay 12v into the same fuse unless your pump has an excessive draw, IE A100, aero340, Bosche 44 etc. Walbros are just fine being on the same fuse
No point in running a separate fuse for the IGN relay trigger
This is the schematic I drew when building a stand alone. Maybe it will help you sort out the needs vs dont need
This is my minimal LSx harness using an 0411 PCM pinout. I drew it a long time ago so the fuse ratings arent current, but the basic shape of the harness, whats needed etc are still correct
Next, you dont want HO2s to have 12v constant. They will kill your battery in a few hours, give them switched
Join the ALDL, PCM 12v constant and fuel pump relay 12v into the same fuse unless your pump has an excessive draw, IE A100, aero340, Bosche 44 etc. Walbros are just fine being on the same fuse
No point in running a separate fuse for the IGN relay trigger
This is the schematic I drew when building a stand alone. Maybe it will help you sort out the needs vs dont need
This is my minimal LSx harness using an 0411 PCM pinout. I drew it a long time ago so the fuse ratings arent current, but the basic shape of the harness, whats needed etc are still correct
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Lacey, WA
Thanks for the info.
Does the MAF/IAT plug go in to the factory air intake? It is near the tranmission end of the harness and that's the only place that I think it could go. Granted, my dad is the one who labeled that plug and it could be an entirely different plug. I would think not, though, being as he's labeled every other plug correctly. I'm just confused as to where this one goes. I looked up MAF/IAT on the internet and it showed a picture of the two separate plugs that go into the throttle body. I know it can't possibly go there because those plugs were already plugged in when I had the harness on the engine.
Also, I looked up the park/neutral switch online. It showed a little black box right above the shift lever. I do not have this little black box. Do I need to get one?
One last thing(I promise) What is ALDL??
Thanks for the help!!! This helps me out a ton.
Does the MAF/IAT plug go in to the factory air intake? It is near the tranmission end of the harness and that's the only place that I think it could go. Granted, my dad is the one who labeled that plug and it could be an entirely different plug. I would think not, though, being as he's labeled every other plug correctly. I'm just confused as to where this one goes. I looked up MAF/IAT on the internet and it showed a picture of the two separate plugs that go into the throttle body. I know it can't possibly go there because those plugs were already plugged in when I had the harness on the engine.
Also, I looked up the park/neutral switch online. It showed a little black box right above the shift lever. I do not have this little black box. Do I need to get one?
One last thing(I promise) What is ALDL??
Thanks for the help!!! This helps me out a ton.
Yes, MAF/IAT are in the air intake. Some trucks use a larger MAF that has the IAT incorporated. Those shouldnt be near the trans side of anything. If the connectors are already plugged in then the others are labelled wrong. Several connectors interchange with the MAF, but only the IAT connector will fit the IAT and the 3 wire connector closest to it is almost always the MAF
MAF is yel, pnk, blk/wht
IAT is tan, blk or ppl
If your trans came from a column shifted truck, it will have the range switch on the trans. If it came from a car with a floor shifter, the range switch is on the shifter itself. Even aftermarket shifters have this feature
Assembly line diagnostics link aka DLC or OBDII connector. Its what you plug the scan tool into for code reading and tuning. Everyone calls it something different and I tend to call it what I see it listed in diagrams most often as
MAF is yel, pnk, blk/wht
IAT is tan, blk or ppl
If your trans came from a column shifted truck, it will have the range switch on the trans. If it came from a car with a floor shifter, the range switch is on the shifter itself. Even aftermarket shifters have this feature
Assembly line diagnostics link aka DLC or OBDII connector. Its what you plug the scan tool into for code reading and tuning. Everyone calls it something different and I tend to call it what I see it listed in diagrams most often as
