A Body Chevelle Oil Pan Problems Solved
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A Body Chevelle Oil Pan Problems Solved The GM performance pan will not work. I hangs way below the crossmember and the tie rod smack it good. The tie rod hit realy hard on the passanger side. I would have moddified it if it didn't hang down so low.
So I called the holley tech line. The garunteed that there pan would fit and not hit the tie rod ends. Well it fits pretty good. I love the ground clearance. But I did have to raise the front of the engine a little bit. I put a 3/16 plate under each motor mount. I had to take my grease fitting out because the are the original tie rods and the fitting point straight towards the oil pan and were the first thig to hit. I also ground the tie rod eds off with the grinder a little bit. They come close now but do not hit. I am happy with this.
So I called the holley tech line. The garunteed that there pan would fit and not hit the tie rod ends. Well it fits pretty good. I love the ground clearance. But I did have to raise the front of the engine a little bit. I put a 3/16 plate under each motor mount. I had to take my grease fitting out because the are the original tie rods and the fitting point straight towards the oil pan and were the first thig to hit. I also ground the tie rod eds off with the grinder a little bit. They come close now but do not hit. I am happy with this.
I used the CTS-V pan on a 1/4" raised motor and had the exact same tie rod issue (72 Olds 442). I greased the inside tie rod ends then replaced the fitting with an allen plug. Noe one side clears and the other side barely touches.
Eventually I'll drill and tap the tie rods for a different grease fitting location.
Eventually I'll drill and tap the tie rods for a different grease fitting location.
Do they make a steering setup that either has wider tie rods or perhaps lowers the whole assembly? With all of us having the same problem it seems like someone would be selling a solution (assuming it is possible, which I have no idea about).
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You can do that yourself with some work, but just remember, if you do your bump steer will be a mess. Your center link location and length must be matched to your upper and lower control arm locations and geometries.
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I used the mast pan as well and raised my frame stands 1/4" Drivers side now has 1/8" clearance, and the passenger side tie rod just barely touches at full lock.
I have been thinking about a solution to this and I'm curious what others think. What if I took the idler arm off the passenger side frame rail and elongated the 2 mounting holes down 1/8"... Pulling the idler down 1/8" would subsequently pull the tie rods and center link down 1/8" as well I assume. I can't imagine 1/8" affecting things all that much in the steering dept... Thoughts?
I have been thinking about a solution to this and I'm curious what others think. What if I took the idler arm off the passenger side frame rail and elongated the 2 mounting holes down 1/8"... Pulling the idler down 1/8" would subsequently pull the tie rods and center link down 1/8" as well I assume. I can't imagine 1/8" affecting things all that much in the steering dept... Thoughts?
I used the mast pan as well and raised my frame stands 1/4" Drivers side now has 1/8" clearance, and the passenger side tie rod just barely touches at full lock.
I have been thinking about a solution to this and I'm curious what others think. What if I took the idler arm off the passenger side frame rail and elongated the 2 mounting holes down 1/8"... Pulling the idler down 1/8" would subsequently pull the tie rods and center link down 1/8" as well I assume. I can't imagine 1/8" affecting things all that much in the steering dept... Thoughts?
I have been thinking about a solution to this and I'm curious what others think. What if I took the idler arm off the passenger side frame rail and elongated the 2 mounting holes down 1/8"... Pulling the idler down 1/8" would subsequently pull the tie rods and center link down 1/8" as well I assume. I can't imagine 1/8" affecting things all that much in the steering dept... Thoughts?
The Holley Pan is also Identical to the JZMotorworks pan , which Holley bought the design. We have 2 Chevelles that we swapped with 2 different mount styles and 2 different engine placements but use the JZMotorworks pans in both cars. The one car gets auto crossed quite often, its the Gold Chevelle in Hot Rod this month under the Stance article. The tierods under normal conditions barely touch the pan, but push the car in a corner and they really start digging a hole in it. The 68 we swapped, we changed from a inner tie rod to a hiem joint and it clears nicely. We will have both cars at the LS fest.
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The Holley Pan is also Identical to the JZMotorworks pan , which Holley bought the design. We have 2 Chevelles that we swapped with 2 different mount styles and 2 different engine placements but use the JZMotorworks pans in both cars. The one car gets auto crossed quite often, its the Gold Chevelle in Hot Rod this month under the Stance article. The tierods under normal conditions barely touch the pan, but push the car in a corner and they really start digging a hole in it. The 68 we swapped, we changed from a inner tie rod to a hiem joint and it clears nicely. We will have both cars at the LS fest.
Saw that car in hot rod, nice! That article said you cut a coil off your hotchkis springs? I have the same ones in my 66 how much did that drop the front? Right now my front is sitting higher then I like and was thinking of doing the same...
Andrew
