64 cutlass possible lq4 swap
1. I plan on going to a carb setup to reduce the wiring so I'll be using to msd control box.
2. What trans should I go with? a 700r4 or a 4l60e( I want to keep the wiring down)
3. Being factory ac how would I keep the ac? with the ls ac how would I get it to run off the factory setup
4. How would I go about keeping the gauges working.
I plan on using the brp swap kit and a hummer oil pan.
I can get the car for 2500$ and I plan on using it for my daily driver after this is done, using light ported 706 heads and a light cam(.525 lift) which I have already
1. I plan on going to a carb setup to reduce the wiring so I'll be using to msd control box.
2. What trans should I go with? a 700r4 or a 4l60e( I want to keep the wiring down)
3. Being factory ac how would I keep the ac? with the ls ac how would I get it to run off the factory setup
4. How would I go about keeping the gauges working.
I plan on using the brp swap kit and a hummer oil pan.
I can get the car for 2500$ and I plan on using it for my daily driver after this is done, using light ported 706 heads and a light cam(.525 lift) which I have already
3) Going with Carb and MSD the factory AC compressor on the LS will not work correctly as I understand it. The LS uses a variable compressor. You would need one of the compressors like vintage air or Kwik performance sell. I used the full Vintage air set up and have been pleased with it. However, starting with the factory Chevelle setup if you have that would save some money.
4) straight forward on this one just need the 700r4 mechanical speedo, Autometer sells a conversion bung for the oil pressure, fuel and ammeter are unaffected. Tach would be driven off of your MSD box
- As a daily I would consider keeping the injection in your shoes since that was the big reason I did the LS swap in my daily. It is a personal preference and if you just are more comfortable with the Carb go for it.
However, as I priced it out even with a nice pre-made wiring harness purchase for the fuel injection you are still not saving any money going with a carb setup. Sticking with FI saves the cost of carb/MSD/intake manifold/14psi Pump at the expense of a 52psi Fuel pump/ wiring harness/ $300 tune.
But again it could be different for you since you have a different skill set.
If you use a quality aftermarket harness with proven working motor + 4l80e the electronics part is plug and play with the complication of attempting to use a stock speedometer. I know there are some systems out there that take the electronic speed input from the computer and convert that into mechanical output. However, the Dakota digital new design set of gauges looks mighty nice and should work well. I wish that set had been out a year ago.
However I will look into keep the fi setup a little closer.



