1981 C10/5.3L Build Thread
Thats the color I did my engine bay and I really like it. Pretty close to flat black and I could do the whole truck for under $100. Temporary paint job until I'm ready for body work
I think the frame changed shape sort of as it went back so it might not slide back like you can do on some cars.
I wanted to make a new crossmember so I could run the exhaust up and over instead of underneath the crossmember. The stock setup didnt give me enough room to run 3" exhaust over it.
Probably something you'll just have to try and see if you can make it work.
One thing to pay close attention to when building a crossmember is the driveline angle. Since you get to choose what angle the trans sits then measure your rear end pinion angle. I ended up putting a shim under the leafs to change it a little bit. Then use a jack and a piece of wood or something to jack the trans up until you get the angles correct. Hold it there with the jack while you tack together your crossmember so that you know its correct.
Its better to make it a tiny bit low instead of high because you can always put some washers or a plate inbetween the trans mount and your cross member if you want to move it up a little bit.
Use some pretty good tacks though because if you just do small tacks then when you pull it off to finish welding it it will warp like crazy.
I pulled both tanks and got a new cheapo Spectra tank for a 1987 C10 passenger side. The 87 was fuel injected so it has a different tank with a tray in it. I put a walbro 255 in it for now (will get two of them when I go turbo).
If I was to do it again, I would do a 91 or whatever year Blazer tank. It sits inbetween the frame in the back. Would help with traction getting weight back there.
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Ya I want a tank in the rear between the rails but im going to have to bob my frame rails to narrow it and narrow a 9" to run my tires. What year of tank do you thank would be best?
And when you were going to run the th400 were you going to buy a converter for the th400 to ls or run the adapter bushing ?
And I could hook you up with the seats and stuff if you want newer nice bucket seats or anything else out of the tahoe.
I'm no pro at all when it comes to wiring, I actually hate it haha. But eventually I got it figured out. Since you have the donor vehicle you should be able to pull the engine harness and fuse box all in one and that will make it a lot easier.
I think you have a couple options on the tank, since your going to alter the frame a little then I'd wait until you have that part figured out before you buy a tank. If the back part of the frame where the spare tire went wont be changing then you can get a 91 Chevy Blazer tank, they are like $95 on rockauto. Its pretty big though, 31 gallons. You'll have to weld in some supports for it. The other option if you want it in the back is to get a summit racing plastic tank and put it back there. There are some issues with using the foam filled ones though because they degrade over time.
Since I'll be drag racing a bit I was going to go with an aftermarket SFI flexplate either way, so I would have just got a flexplate for LS1 to TH400.
On the front suspension I just went with the Mcgauphys 2.5" drop spindles. I also had 2" drop springs but it was way too low so I put the stock springs back in. Eventually I'll change springs to drop it maybe 3/4" or so. If the back isnt low enough with the drop shackle then you'll either have to get drop leaf springs or pull the shackle and do a flip kit. I have the shackle and I think its about a 4" drop, a flip will do closer to 6"
if you do a flip kit and drop shackles you will prob need a c-notch kit for the frame. and if short bed with drop shackles the longer shackles will hit the bed floor crossmember. check out my 2wd build link below for pics of how I fixed that problem .
You are correct about the c-notch and the bed supports. The notch is pretty small though, just like an inch or two. They make brackets you can bolt on after you cut out the little section, or you can just fab it for a lot cheaper.
I had to cut a small section out of my bed supports to clear the shackles.
I'll have to check out your build thread, glad to see there are a decent amount of people with swapped 73-87s!
When its welded in I'm going to try out this frost king stuff on the floors. From what I've read it works great for sound deadening for about half the price of dynamat. Anyone used it before?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-Kin...V516/100028603
I have new carpet layed in there, but am waiting on a couple plastic pieces to come in to finish it up.
I didnt take a picture but I used Eastwood Seam sealer on all the seams top and bottom, that stuff works pretty well.
Will look nice other than my blue bench and blue headliner...
Should make a huge difference having solid floors and sound deadener in there!
Dana 60 out of a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 with 3.55 gears. (I thought they only made a 3.54 but it has a tag that says 3.55)
Going to narrow it, make a 4 link for it, run 35 spline axles and a truetrac
Thinking about using the AWD Astrovan rotors and C10 front calipers to convert to disc in the rear
Should be a fun project
I would be interested in some photos of the fuel tank upgrade. Thinking of doing mine, as I dont really like the 2 side tanks.
I wouldnt mind a bit more weight over the rear end as well. Not a lot of options out here, so need to have a good idea of what I want before I start looking.


