1972 Nova LQ4
S&P will also do the notch for a small fee. sadly, their website looks like it was put together by a 5-year-old, so I'm not sure where to find pricing without calling them (which is odd considering they seem to be a pretty legit shop).
Just cut the shifter hole, no other floor pan modifications were needed

I went with Dynatech headers. The ground clearance is horrible. Wish i would have went with something else. Oops.
Tonight i installed my BMR adjustible transmission crossmember. So happy with that decision. I was going to modify my stock one or built my own from a Chassis Engineering kit like i did on my Mustang. Best decision i have made!!
Should be making more progress again. Gotta upload some pics too.
I just recieved my PRO 5.0 shifter

From my experience with T5s this is the best shifter ever made. Hopefully it will be as positive with my T56. Only drawback is the shifter handle is machined to angle towards the driver. In my application it is too close to my drivers seat. I will look for a 'straight' handle.
With that done i should not have to pull the motor again. I can re-install my steering column and gearbox, tighten up the too low Dynatechs
, finish the exhaust etc.I still need to decide on a clutch, pedals, fuel system and EFI setup.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time

Yeah.. them Brian Tooleys kit are pertty well priced. Going single or double springs ?
I hope to have my Nova Running sometime this Summer.. but that all depends on funds.. and if anything else breaks.. LOL..
As far as any pan hanging below the X-Member.. I would not recommend it. After all of the years driving my Chevelle and having to deal with Speed Bump and dips.. I finally bottomed out one to many times and cracked it. so... a lot of time spend pulling, cleaning and replacing on replacing a pan. I got a Holley on my Nova and a notch F-Body on my Chevelle now. Just my 2 cents on using anything that hangs below.. .
BC
The only issue i 'have' is the parking brake cable is pushed down by the crossmember. I have not tried it yet but i see NO reason why i cannot run it THROUGH the adjustable slots on the crossmember.
Couldn't be happier with the purchase. If you want good pics let me know. May take me a day or two but would be happy to help.

Yeah.. them Brian Tooleys kit are pertty well priced. Going single or double springs ?
I hope to have my Nova Running sometime this Summer.. but that all depends on funds.. and if anything else breaks.. LOL..
As far as any pan hanging below the X-Member.. I would not recommend it. After all of the years driving my Chevelle and having to deal with Speed Bump and dips.. I finally bottomed out one to many times and cracked it. so... a lot of time spend pulling, cleaning and replacing on replacing a pan. I got a Holley on my Nova and a notch F-Body on my Chevelle now. Just my 2 cents on using anything that hangs below.. .
BC
I see not reason why i will need to cut the tunnel (the motor/trans is mocked up but not running). I do not belive i can fit the T56 reverse lockout soledoid. I meant to trial fit it but i cant find where i put it

For the oil pan i plan on buying the MAST pan. It will not hang below the crossmember.
What does hang below the crossmember/subframe is my Dynatech headers. I try to look past it but i need to make a change. I know i will not be happy with them. They hang below my Super Comps that hit EVERYTHING. Not sure on custom made or stainless works headers.
I am leaning heavily towards it.
For daily driver type driveability do you reccomend it? I am concerned with cold startup, A/C being turned on and off, VSS input (if needed), IAC response, pushing in the clutch with a MS4 or equalivant cam with no excessive high idle or stalling?
I really want my cake and eat it too. Big cam and power (eventually a YSI) with a car i can give to my GF and she can drive it without special instruction on how to do it.
I am leaning heavily towards it.
For daily driver type driveability do you reccomend it? I am concerned with cold startup, A/C being turned on and off, VSS input (if needed), IAC response, pushing in the clutch with a MS4 or equalivant cam with no excessive high idle or stalling?
I really want my cake and eat it too. Big cam and power (eventually a YSI) with a car i can give to my GF and she can drive it without special instruction on how to do it.
Holleys software is really simple and it allows for pretty much every adjustment needed to fine tune the car to behave however you would like. Cold startup has its own adjustment table so you can tweak it in to your liking.
The IAC is completely adjustable as well. You can set how high it revs when you start it, how long it holds it there, how fast it decays back to idle, and how quickly the IAC responds to prevent idle fluctuation from overshoot. There is an input option for a/c but I cannot comment on how it works or how well it will work since I dont have a/c.
Holley has released a V2 software update recently and that made a huge difference in the way the car starts. Before the update the car would crank for 5 seconds or so before firing. The new software has a prime feature that was designed to cure the slow start in LS engines that the previous software suffered from. Now you hit the key and it fires up instantly.
The car drives as well as any production car in my opinion. No stalling, no high idle, no surging.
There is still alot to decide on clutch, fuel system, hydraulics etc. I am starting to slowly see the end of the tunnel. Probably $4000 away till its on the road.
Trying to get it done by my 40th bday in January.








