5.3 ls with 700r4
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From: LAS VEGAS
5.3 ls with 700r4 I'm going to be running my 700r4 with my 5.3. I have a drive by cable ls6 intake manifold. What do need to make this work? Which flywheel do I need? Is there a cable and/or bracket kit for the throttle cable and throttle pressure cable for the trans? Also would like my cruise control to still work which is also cable driven. Thanks in advance!
Do yourself a favor scrap that dinosaur and put a 4L60E in it. They are a dime a dozen these days. The reliability over the older 700's is 2 fold and everything will work correctly. Being a 5.3 the harness and pcm are already ready to run the newer electronic tranny. The only really good 700's are the 87-92's because they had all the improvements.
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From: Beebe, Arkansas
I'm going to be running my 700r4 with my 5.3. I have a drive by cable ls6 intake manifold. What do need to make this work? Which flywheel do I need? Is there a cable and/or bracket kit for the throttle cable and throttle pressure cable for the trans? Also would like my cruise control to still work which is also cable driven. Thanks in advance!
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From: LAS VEGAS
I keep goin back and forth on my tranny choice. The main reason I wanna keep my 700 is because it has maybe 10k on it and fully built and upgraded. My next question would be can I use my factory cruise control also? I have a DBC throttle body and my cruise unit is cable driven also....
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From: Beebe, Arkansas
I keep goin back and forth on my tranny choice. The main reason I wanna keep my 700 is because it has maybe 10k on it and fully built and upgraded. My next question would be can I use my factory cruise control also? I have a DBC throttle body and my cruise unit is cable driven also....
If you went 4l60e it has a VSS already bolts right up with stock 5.3L dished flex plate. Then all you would need is the CC box that's mounted on the fire wall in the trucks. And wire it up and that's it.
The only down side to a 4l60e is it requires an electric speedo. Or run a cable X box which is $$ for a mech one or even more $$ for mech speedo tail housings.
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From: LAS VEGAS
Bo ur are a wealth of knowledge! My suburban is a 92 it has electronic speed sensor on the 700 and my cruise unit is DBC. But I keep leaning more towards a 4l60. I plan on running a stand alone harness for the engine and or trans so I guess if i go with 4l60 to use cruise control it would just be a matter of figuring out the wiring of the newer cruise unit and my factory wiring to make it work...
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I stayed with a built 700R4 and am using an aftermarket speedo that's compatible with the geared cable type of drive that came with the 700R4. My choice to go 700R4 was because I am eventually going to go with a carb style propane system and will be eliminating the computer and it's functions. But...that's just me. Got nothing against 4L60s.
I keep goin back and forth on my tranny choice. The main reason I wanna keep my 700 is because it has maybe 10k on it and fully built and upgraded. My next question would be can I use my factory cruise control also? I have a DBC throttle body and my cruise unit is cable driven also....
Its cake if you are a 92 already to do a 4L60E make your speedo work correctly and have cruise.
You just run the vss output from the LS pcm to the speedo output coming out of the DRAC module behind the glovebox.
This lets you ditch the drac and everything is fully controlled by the LS pcm.
I wasn't trying to sound like a ***** and make you change your mind just because it's an older tranny. But when you start trying to tie everything in and you want it to work factory flawless you can't go wrong with going the newer route. But I also understand having some coin tied up in your older tranny. But since it is built it should be an easy sale.
You just run the vss output from the LS pcm to the speedo output coming out of the DRAC module behind the glovebox.
This lets you ditch the drac and everything is fully controlled by the LS pcm.
I wasn't trying to sound like a ***** and make you change your mind just because it's an older tranny. But when you start trying to tie everything in and you want it to work factory flawless you can't go wrong with going the newer route. But I also understand having some coin tied up in your older tranny. But since it is built it should be an easy sale.
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From: LAS VEGAS
Its cake if you are a 92 already to do a 4L60E make your speedo work correctly and have cruise.
You just run the vss output from the LS pcm to the speedo output coming out of the DRAC module behind the glovebox.
This lets you ditch the drac and everything is fully controlled by the LS pcm.
I wasn't trying to sound like a ***** and make you change your mind just because it's an older tranny. But when you start trying to tie everything in and you want it to work factory flawless you can't go wrong with going the newer route. But I also understand having some coin tied up in your older tranny. But since it is built it should be an easy sale.
You just run the vss output from the LS pcm to the speedo output coming out of the DRAC module behind the glovebox.
This lets you ditch the drac and everything is fully controlled by the LS pcm.
I wasn't trying to sound like a ***** and make you change your mind just because it's an older tranny. But when you start trying to tie everything in and you want it to work factory flawless you can't go wrong with going the newer route. But I also understand having some coin tied up in your older tranny. But since it is built it should be an easy sale.
Yes the pcm behind the glovebox will go away.
Tell whoever is building your harness you need a output signal wire from the pcm speedo output left with the wiring you have to tie into inside the cab.
Behind the glovebox you can get tach, speedo, check engine, brake switch signals, hvac request if you are keeping operational ac, and ignition to power your swap harness.
Tell them you want all of the wiring that needs to be run inside the cab to go through the factory firewall location below the puke bottle it will be neat and clean that way and you can hit all of the needed connections behind the glovebox
Tell whoever is building your harness you need a output signal wire from the pcm speedo output left with the wiring you have to tie into inside the cab.
Behind the glovebox you can get tach, speedo, check engine, brake switch signals, hvac request if you are keeping operational ac, and ignition to power your swap harness.
Tell them you want all of the wiring that needs to be run inside the cab to go through the factory firewall location below the puke bottle it will be neat and clean that way and you can hit all of the needed connections behind the glovebox
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From: LAS VEGAS
Yes the pcm behind the glovebox will go away.
Tell whoever is building your harness you need a output signal wire from the pcm speedo output left with the wiring you have to tie into inside the cab.
Behind the glovebox you can get tach, speedo, check engine, brake switch signals, hvac request if you are keeping operational ac, and ignition to power your swap harness.
Tell them you want all of the wiring that needs to be run inside the cab to go through the factory firewall location below the puke bottle it will be neat and clean that way and you can hit all of the needed connections behind the glovebox
Tell whoever is building your harness you need a output signal wire from the pcm speedo output left with the wiring you have to tie into inside the cab.
Behind the glovebox you can get tach, speedo, check engine, brake switch signals, hvac request if you are keeping operational ac, and ignition to power your swap harness.
Tell them you want all of the wiring that needs to be run inside the cab to go through the factory firewall location below the puke bottle it will be neat and clean that way and you can hit all of the needed connections behind the glovebox
Your aftermarket harness should have the wires that need to be tied into the vehicle labeled.
There is a single large connector behind the glovebox that contains all the needed wiring connections you need to tie into.
There is a single large connector behind the glovebox that contains all the needed wiring connections you need to tie into.
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Orlando
5.3 700r4 Hudson I'm going to be running my 700r4 with my 5.3. I have a drive by cable ls6 intake manifold. What do need to make this work? Which flywheel do I need? Is there a cable and/or bracket kit for the throttle cable and throttle pressure cable for the trans? Also would like my cruise control to still work which is also cable driven. Thanks in advance!
I have cruise on my 700r4, carbed though. I just used the edelbrock brackets. The 4l60e isn't much different, if anything they are more of a hassle than a 700r4. I have a 92, so maybe its a good one
Last edited by snook; Sep 6, 2013 at 05:45 PM.
I stayed with a built 700R4 and am using an aftermarket speedo that's compatible with the geared cable type of drive that came with the 700R4. My choice to go 700R4 was because I am eventually going to go with a carb style propane system and will be eliminating the computer and it's functions. But...that's just me. Got nothing against 4L60s.
Last edited by Ozz1967; Aug 21, 2016 at 07:51 PM.
What car did you do the swap in? I need to find a transmission crossmember to use with my 700R4 and LS swap...I want to keep my 700R because it was built to handle my modded 406 sbc and installed literally weeks before my motor ate itself and I can't justify spending another $1600+ to build another trans this soon to go along with the LS swap in my 84 Firebird.