5.3 Problem with starter hitting the flywheel-problem fixed
A service manual should have a distance value for the major diameter of the pinion gear tooth to the minor diameter of the ring gear teeth. Or vice versa. Your symptoms make it sound like the starter isn't mounted straight (wrong bolts) or needs shimmed like a few guys above said.
A service manual should have a distance value for the major diameter of the pinion gear tooth to the minor diameter of the ring gear teeth. Or vice versa. Your symptoms make it sound like the starter isn't mounted straight (wrong bolts) or needs shimmed like a few guys above said.
I'm on a 1/16 shim rig now and still occasionally just clunks and doesn't mesh, but it starts right up with no delay when the teeth do mesh.
The factory ford solonoid for the starter wasn't installed when I first got this car, I have it but not sure how to wire it up. I'll give it a try one of these nights after work
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The problem for the new people the starter acts like the older fords that had then hot start problem, the solution then was to tap on the starter and it would then crank. Same problem here.
Plunger comes out and doesn't mesh with flex plate teeth. Sometimes it does and starts up fine, most other times plunger just comes out and hits the flex plate and bam that's it. No crank.
I've tried 4 different starters and both 11teeth starters and 9 teeth starters.
Also shimmed it up to a 1/16th.
The ear piece on the block is not broken or have any cracks.
The flex plate has never been off thie motor and it is the right flex plate, ignition puts out 12v to the signal wire of the starter, I've replaced the power wire from the batt to the starter and the terminals too. Even replaced a the battery with a 1000 cranking amp battery.
Does anyone have any new input to this problem?
Only thing I haven't tried is wiring in the factory ford starter solonoid but its cause I just got my hands on one.
Any clues?
I am using the ford starter wire too, the signal wire that had the black rubber 90 degree connection and went the the ford starter relay. I ran that wire to the terminal on the starter.
I tested the voltage to that wire while cranking and it was getting 12v.
Should I wire the factory ford starter relay back in? Maybe bump up the amperage and fix the problem?
One of these days ill get it right. Other than said issues and some bad gas mileage this car is a blast to drive
Has started flawlessly ever since, even cranks faster which is kinda weird as I thought it cranked fast to begone with. Either way I am now comfortable jumping in my car in a tight pinch ha!
Guess the factory mustang ignition wasn't putting out the amperage it needed, you guys were right all along. Thanks for your help guys
First issue was being the wrong starter, Second was it wasn't getting the correct voltage/amps.
Also my solenoid wasnt rated for continous use and fried its self.
Didn't work. I cut the stop lamp switch wire and just ran the wire for tcc and it didn't work. Still not disengaging
I got to looking and I thought the wire said tcc on it but when I unlocked all the wires it said "brake lamp feed(needed for torque converter lockup)"
Ran that wire the way we talked about and no bueno










