06colorado

iTrader: (4)

I had a similar problem with my fox swap, was trying to run the just the starter selonoid to the ignition, turned out the ignition was taking away the amps i needed so i added in the factory fox fenderwell selonoid and didnt have a problem after that.

crazymofo1986

iTrader: (3)

Volts dont matter, amps do.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

If it cranks every time and starts without delay, I'd focus on the pinion gear to ring gear clearance.

A service manual should have a distance value for the major diameter of the pinion gear tooth to the minor diameter of the ring gear teeth. Or vice versa. Your symptoms make it sound like the starter isn't mounted straight (wrong bolts) or needs shimmed like a few guys above said.

99VetteFRC

If you can get the gear out of the started with a screwdriver and mesh it with the flywheel(unhook the battery) then see if you can put a large paperclip between the gears. If not, it needs a shim. I know that sound kinda hack but thats how its done OLD SCHOOL.

1970 LSCamaro

iTrader: (5)

Following this thread...interesting

gagliano7

Sound like the flyeheel maybe wrong or backwards.

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

if theres a problem with a starter, i pull the sol., then man. engage it and ck the mesh, shim if needed
if it works everytime by jumping it, theres another issue

bakomack

I'm not sure how many amps are in my signal wire to the starter but that would seem to be my issue.

I'm on a 1/16 shim rig now and still occasionally just clunks and doesn't mesh, but it starts right up with no delay when the teeth do mesh.

The factory ford solonoid for the starter wasn't installed when I first got this car, I have it but not sure how to wire it up. I'll give it a try one of these nights after work

bakomack

So the problem is still there and really annoying/embarrassing now.

The problem for the new people the starter acts like the older fords that had then hot start problem, the solution then was to tap on the starter and it would then crank. Same problem here.
Plunger comes out and doesn't mesh with flex plate teeth. Sometimes it does and starts up fine, most other times plunger just comes out and hits the flex plate and bam that's it. No crank.

I've tried 4 different starters and both 11teeth starters and 9 teeth starters.

Also shimmed it up to a 1/16th.

The ear piece on the block is not broken or have any cracks.

The flex plate has never been off thie motor and it is the right flex plate, ignition puts out 12v to the signal wire of the starter, I've replaced the power wire from the batt to the starter and the terminals too. Even replaced a the battery with a 1000 cranking amp battery.

Does anyone have any new input to this problem?
Only thing I haven't tried is wiring in the factory ford starter solonoid but its cause I just got my hands on one.

Any clues?

bdr66

iTrader: (1)

You said it starts every time you jump the starter with a screwdriver right? Well, that to me points to the wiring for the key switch. Possibly corroded and just not sending enough amps to correctly get things moving.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Good point. The OP never posted what vehicle his engine is in, and lots of older vehicles had everything running through the ignition switch instead of relays...

bakomack

Forgot toad that info. Car is a 1988 mustang

I am using the ford starter wire too, the signal wire that had the black rubber 90 degree connection and went the the ford starter relay. I ran that wire to the terminal on the starter.

I tested the voltage to that wire while cranking and it was getting 12v.

Should I wire the factory ford starter relay back in? Maybe bump up the amperage and fix the problem?

bdr66

iTrader: (1)

As has been said before a few times, 12v doesn't matter much, it's just telling you there's power there, amps do the heavy lifting. I had 2 lights not working yet there was 12v to each. Replaced some wiring, boom, everything was happy and working. Wire that starter relay back in since it seems the key switch wire can't handle it alone.

86lxnotch

iTrader: (3)

wire the ford soleniod in into the mix. you said earlier the car doesnt have it. put it in there factory ford like and then run a single 4 ga cable from it to the starter. on the starter make a little jumper to go from the batt lug to the soleniod lug. this should solve your issue easily

bakomack

I got my hands on a ford starter solenoid today, going to wire it in this evening. Also seem like I wired up my brake sw and tcc wrong so going to go back over them to make sure. Tcc doesn't seem to be disengaging

One of these days ill get it right. Other than said issues and some bad gas mileage this car is a blast to drive

bakomack

Ford starter solenoid was the key to fixing my problem.

Has started flawlessly ever since, even cranks faster which is kinda weird as I thought it cranked fast to begone with. Either way I am now comfortable jumping in my car in a tight pinch ha!

Guess the factory mustang ignition wasn't putting out the amperage it needed, you guys were right all along. Thanks for your help guys

86lxnotch

iTrader: (3)

how bout the tcc/brake switch wiring we talked about?

LS1PUNK

iTrader: (5)

I just went through the same issue with mine.

First issue was being the wrong starter, Second was it wasn't getting the correct voltage/amps.

Also my solenoid wasnt rated for continous use and fried its self.

bakomack

Didn't work. I cut the stop lamp switch wire and just ran the wire for tcc and it didn't work. Still not disengaging
I got to looking and I thought the wire said tcc on it but when I unlocked all the wires it said "brake lamp feed(needed for torque converter lockup)"
Ran that wire the way we talked about and no bueno

fastraiderX

hi i have a 80 malibu with a 5.3 carb put a high torque starter and it keeps getting stuck in the flywheel the flywheel is sfi with a 10in convertor and a turbo 400 i been using my battery charger cause the battery is in the truck got a new battery i havent installed yet should i start shimming the starter any help thx