Breakdown of a C5 fuel reg/filter?
Breakdown of a C5 fuel reg/filter? Does anyone know the breakdown of a C5 fuel regulator/fuel filter?
I mean, there is ?psi from the inline Walbro 255lph fuel pump going into the bigger of the 2 male ends on the filter & on the other side is outlet regulated down at 60ish psi going to the engine, does anyone know what the psi & flow info is on the return line of this C5 reg/filter?
I'm doing an experiment on my LS swap & I need a way to tap into the fuel line & instead of using an actual brass barb "T" fitting I thought it might be slick if i could use the return line instead of the main line.
Depending on what the answer of the above question is, would it work to have 2 regulators on the same fuel line? I mean I'll be using the factory 6.0L truck intake that has the input & return on the intake along with the regulator but if i put this C5 regulator/filter in line as well will it screw with the regulator at the engine? I mean will it still function properly?
Thanks!
I mean, there is ?psi from the inline Walbro 255lph fuel pump going into the bigger of the 2 male ends on the filter & on the other side is outlet regulated down at 60ish psi going to the engine, does anyone know what the psi & flow info is on the return line of this C5 reg/filter?
I'm doing an experiment on my LS swap & I need a way to tap into the fuel line & instead of using an actual brass barb "T" fitting I thought it might be slick if i could use the return line instead of the main line.
Depending on what the answer of the above question is, would it work to have 2 regulators on the same fuel line? I mean I'll be using the factory 6.0L truck intake that has the input & return on the intake along with the regulator but if i put this C5 regulator/filter in line as well will it screw with the regulator at the engine? I mean will it still function properly?
Thanks!
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,685
Likes: 7
From: Beebe, Arkansas
Does anyone know the breakdown of a C5 fuel regulator/fuel filter?
I mean, there is ?psi from the inline Walbro 255lph fuel pump going into the bigger of the 2 male ends on the filter & on the other side is outlet regulated down at 60ish psi going to the engine, does anyone know what the psi & flow info is on the return line of this C5 reg/filter?
I'm doing an experiment on my LS swap & I need a way to tap into the fuel line & instead of using an actual brass barb "T" fitting I thought it might be slick if i could use the return line instead of the main line.
Depending on what the answer of the above question is, would it work to have 2 regulators on the same fuel line? I mean I'll be using the factory 6.0L truck intake that has the input & return on the intake along with the regulator but if i put this C5 regulator/filter in line as well will it screw with the regulator at the engine? I mean will it still function properly?
Thanks!
I mean, there is ?psi from the inline Walbro 255lph fuel pump going into the bigger of the 2 male ends on the filter & on the other side is outlet regulated down at 60ish psi going to the engine, does anyone know what the psi & flow info is on the return line of this C5 reg/filter?
I'm doing an experiment on my LS swap & I need a way to tap into the fuel line & instead of using an actual brass barb "T" fitting I thought it might be slick if i could use the return line instead of the main line.
Depending on what the answer of the above question is, would it work to have 2 regulators on the same fuel line? I mean I'll be using the factory 6.0L truck intake that has the input & return on the intake along with the regulator but if i put this C5 regulator/filter in line as well will it screw with the regulator at the engine? I mean will it still function properly?
Thanks!
Its a waste of time. Just run one or the other. No point in two. You could always just get the later returnless truck rails. Should beabel to get them or a whole intake for cheap! Then just run the vette filter/reg.
If you use the vette regulator you can cap off the return line on the rail. You can't check pressure on the return line, as there shouldn't be enough to register on a good gauge. If there was, you would have a restriction in the line and the pressure to the engine would go too high. If you have the return style rail, just use that regulator and the correct plumbing for it.
Bo, the flow was my major concern w/ the 2 regs.
LS1, that makes sense as well considering its just going back into the tank and there shouldn't be any pressure.
Let me explain a bit on what i'm trying to do, (don't judge me lol) - This engine is going into an old 54 Ford that is bagged, custom, fender skirts the whole 9 yards, & I'm going to have flame throwers on it out the exhaust. Only problem is the EFI won't run rich enough to do it so what they do is tap into the fuel line & spray fuel into the pipes via n2o/fuel solenoid & nozzle behind the O2's/cats etc so the engine doesn't even know thats happening, I'm workin on a system that is stand alone sparker so i don't have to tap into any ignition wires as well. I'm just trying to find a good way to tap into the fuel line along the frame rails back by the tank to be able to do all this.
Make sense?
LS1, that makes sense as well considering its just going back into the tank and there shouldn't be any pressure.
Let me explain a bit on what i'm trying to do, (don't judge me lol) - This engine is going into an old 54 Ford that is bagged, custom, fender skirts the whole 9 yards, & I'm going to have flame throwers on it out the exhaust. Only problem is the EFI won't run rich enough to do it so what they do is tap into the fuel line & spray fuel into the pipes via n2o/fuel solenoid & nozzle behind the O2's/cats etc so the engine doesn't even know thats happening, I'm workin on a system that is stand alone sparker so i don't have to tap into any ignition wires as well. I'm just trying to find a good way to tap into the fuel line along the frame rails back by the tank to be able to do all this.
Make sense?
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 497
Likes: 4
Bo, the flow was my major concern w/ the 2 regs.
LS1, that makes sense as well considering its just going back into the tank and there shouldn't be any pressure.
Let me explain a bit on what i'm trying to do, (don't judge me lol) - This engine is going into an old 54 Ford that is bagged, custom, fender skirts the whole 9 yards, & I'm going to have flame throwers on it out the exhaust. Only problem is the EFI won't run rich enough to do it so what they do is tap into the fuel line & spray fuel into the pipes via n2o/fuel solenoid & nozzle behind the O2's/cats etc so the engine doesn't even know thats happening, I'm workin on a system that is stand alone sparker so i don't have to tap into any ignition wires as well. I'm just trying to find a good way to tap into the fuel line along the frame rails back by the tank to be able to do all this.
Make sense?
LS1, that makes sense as well considering its just going back into the tank and there shouldn't be any pressure.
Let me explain a bit on what i'm trying to do, (don't judge me lol) - This engine is going into an old 54 Ford that is bagged, custom, fender skirts the whole 9 yards, & I'm going to have flame throwers on it out the exhaust. Only problem is the EFI won't run rich enough to do it so what they do is tap into the fuel line & spray fuel into the pipes via n2o/fuel solenoid & nozzle behind the O2's/cats etc so the engine doesn't even know thats happening, I'm workin on a system that is stand alone sparker so i don't have to tap into any ignition wires as well. I'm just trying to find a good way to tap into the fuel line along the frame rails back by the tank to be able to do all this.
Make sense?
Or tap off of the Fuel Rail. run a 16ft NOS -4 line to the back. But for that i would run a Solenoid at the fuel rail and at the back. That way you dont have fuel sitting in the line under pressure for no reason.
Let me explain a bit on what i'm trying to do, (don't judge me lol) - This engine is going into an old 54 Ford that is bagged, custom, fender skirts the whole 9 yards, & I'm going to have flame throwers on it out the exhaust. Only problem is the EFI won't run rich enough to do it so what they do is tap into the fuel line & spray fuel into the pipes via n2o/fuel solenoid & nozzle behind the O2's/cats etc so the engine doesn't even know thats happening, I'm workin on a system that is stand alone sparker so i don't have to tap into any ignition wires as well. I'm just trying to find a good way to tap into the fuel line along the frame rails back by the tank to be able to do all this.
Make sense?
Make sense?
I just saw a flamethrower kit on Speedway Motors' site that handles the spark side and it wasn't expensive. They had a single and dual version.
yep thats true but any kit you can buy still has to have something trigger it, aka points opening or closing etc. Thats why i've made my own idea for the spark, simple flip of the switch & continous spark in back. I'll post pics of what i've done when its finished 
Either way, yeah its alot of work just to be crazy lol
Either way, yeah its alot of work just to be crazy lol
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Launching!
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 205
Likes: 2
From: Mobile, Alabama
If I was going to do this, I would T the supply line to the Walbro (its not in in-tank is it?) and run a low pressure carb electric pump that would run off of the rest of the flame system electrical. Not sure you need over 50 psi to your flame nozzles.
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Verdad Gallardo yeah the 50+psi to the noid is excessive thats for sure, i was just going to put a small n20 jet in the nozzle so it doesn't flood the pipes with gas (at least till I get it perfected lol)
yep thats true but any kit you can buy still has to have something trigger it, aka points opening or closing etc. Thats why i've made my own idea for the spark, simple flip of the switch & continous spark in back. I'll post pics of what i've done when its finished
Either way, yeah its alot of work just to be crazy lol
Either way, yeah its alot of work just to be crazy lol
Check the link to what I'm talking about...
Ha, ha, ha, ha, ha!!!!!
Launching!
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 205
Likes: 2
From: Mobile, Alabama
Here is a link to building a spark box out of Radio Sack parts. I have also seen it done with a pair of relays.
http://www.tnga.org/Tech/flame_throwers.htm
http://www.tnga.org/Tech/flame_throwers.htm
go fast, that kit still gets its trigger from the vehicles ignition system, the switch just kills the engines coil & puts power to the coil for the flame thrower, thats why you need to switch it back before the engine dies completely.
74, your on the right track, between this link & another link I've done very similar.
74, your on the right track, between this link & another link I've done very similar.
