"RELAPSE" 61 rag build
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On The Tree
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From: Suburb of Detroit
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Suburb of Detroit
I machined my owned motor mounts but there similar to the ones dirt dingo sells, and all the rest of the company's. I did not have to notch the crossmember, I used a 2002 camero oil pan part #12628771, there all over eBay for about $150ish. Comes with wedge pan and oil pick up tube. It clears nicely. I'm pulling the body off tomarrow, I'll post pics of all the clearance areas that were questioned then. Thanks for looking
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This appears to be a controversial topic. I'm told by several folks that if the motor clears the front crossmember that the angle of the driveshaft to rear will be wrong, and you can result in vibration. Have you checked that angle?
BTW, I have been told by a few that it doesn't do that
Also...I've been told that one thing that may make a difference is the mount perches: V8 and 6 Cyl engine perches are a different height. I don't recall which was higher.
Interested in your thoughts...
BTW, I have been told by a few that it doesn't do that
Also...I've been told that one thing that may make a difference is the mount perches: V8 and 6 Cyl engine perches are a different height. I don't recall which was higher.
Interested in your thoughts...
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 123
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From: Suburb of Detroit
This appears to be a controversial topic. I'm told by several folks that if the motor clears the front crossmember that the angle of the driveshaft to rear will be wrong, and you can result in vibration. Have you checked that angle?
BTW, I have been told by a few that it doesn't do that
Also...I've been told that one thing that may make a difference is the mount perches: V8 and 6 Cyl engine perches are a different height. I don't recall which was higher.
Interested in your thoughts...
BTW, I have been told by a few that it doesn't do that
Also...I've been told that one thing that may make a difference is the mount perches: V8 and 6 Cyl engine perches are a different height. I don't recall which was higher.
Interested in your thoughts...
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On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Suburb of Detroit
Here's the pic that was asked for about oil pan clearance, I used a 2002 camero oil pan part number 19212593. There all over eBay for $145 and come with the wedge pan and oil pick up tube. Both which are important and must be changed out if using a truck motor. You can see in my pic there are no issues, it all clears fine. As you may notice I had to "shim" my motor mounts about a 1/4", only because i reinforced my frame. You will not need to do this on a stock frame.
That part number in the last post is the "muscle car" pan kit. The F-body part number is in one of your other posts up above. Just confirming which one you used and is pictured. ???
The muscle car pan hangs down about an inch and a half and requires a lot of trimming on the frame. The 1998 - 2002 F-Body pan (complete kit available from Pace) is the best fit, doesn't hang below the cross member and lowest price I've seen. Search for PAC-8771 in google or use the link I included above.
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On The Tree
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From: Suburb of Detroit
Hmmm, now you got me wondering. lol I'll look at the pan, and grab the number off it direct. Sorry for the confusion.
I would love to try one of the CTS-V pans as from looking at the pics and dimensions in the oil pan thread, it looks like it would fit okay. Doesn't hang much lower than the f-body one. I don't wanna pay for the pan and then it not fit though. lol
Probably won't be putting the LS2 (w L92 heads) in anytime soon. Almost through with the 478" W for it. Would still like to through it in there one day for longer trips.
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Wow that's a new one to me. Everything looks to be on the same angle. I have several friends/people I've talked to and none have had a vibration problem, one friend even has the same setup I'm running, from the motor, to the trans, same mounts and all. His was in a 63 impala, no issues.
There was also a couple posts on the topic in my build thread in Chevy Talk. You can go to this link, and then do a search for the word 'notch', and you will find the first post. (If that doesn't work due to different number of posts per page, you may try to find post number 2483830 )
I called and talked to Mark at S&P (Street and Performance), and he is building a 60. He said he used the motor mounts that they sell (naturally), and tranny mount. Said it cleared the crossmember, but to get the right angle, he had to space the tranny up 1" from normal mount position to get the angle right.
At any rate, I purchased the same pan at Pace that you did, and hoping to not notch. I don't know which motor stands I have. I do plan to check the drive shaft angle.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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From: Suburb of Detroit
Thanks. Probably used the f-body pan as that's what everyone uses on X-frames. The truck pan cleared everything when I mocked it up, but hung low. I drove for years with a deep pan in the same chassis with a sbc and never had a problem. Car wasn't slammed though.
I would love to try one of the CTS-V pans as from looking at the pics and dimensions in the oil pan thread, it looks like it would fit okay. Doesn't hang much lower than the f-body one. I don't wanna pay for the pan and then it not fit though. lol
Probably won't be putting the LS2 (w L92 heads) in anytime soon. Almost through with the 478" W for it. Would still like to through it in there one day for longer trips.
I would love to try one of the CTS-V pans as from looking at the pics and dimensions in the oil pan thread, it looks like it would fit okay. Doesn't hang much lower than the f-body one. I don't wanna pay for the pan and then it not fit though. lol
Probably won't be putting the LS2 (w L92 heads) in anytime soon. Almost through with the 478" W for it. Would still like to through it in there one day for longer trips.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Suburb of Detroit
It was new to me too. This is a link to a thread on this forum site on the topic.
There was also a couple posts on the topic in my build thread in Chevy Talk. You can go to this link, and then do a search for the word 'notch', and you will find the first post. (If that doesn't work due to different number of posts per page, you may try to find post number 2483830 )
I called and talked to Mark at S&P (Street and Performance), and he is building a 60. He said he used the motor mounts that they sell (naturally), and tranny mount. Said it cleared the crossmember, but to get the right angle, he had to space the tranny up 1" from normal mount position to get the angle right.
At any rate, I purchased the same pan at Pace that you did, and hoping to not notch. I don't know which motor stands I have. I do plan to check the drive shaft angle.
There was also a couple posts on the topic in my build thread in Chevy Talk. You can go to this link, and then do a search for the word 'notch', and you will find the first post. (If that doesn't work due to different number of posts per page, you may try to find post number 2483830 )
I called and talked to Mark at S&P (Street and Performance), and he is building a 60. He said he used the motor mounts that they sell (naturally), and tranny mount. Said it cleared the crossmember, but to get the right angle, he had to space the tranny up 1" from normal mount position to get the angle right.
At any rate, I purchased the same pan at Pace that you did, and hoping to not notch. I don't know which motor stands I have. I do plan to check the drive shaft angle.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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Called my buddy yesterday who did the same set up I have in his 63, no issues what so ever with vibration, and he kept the same stock angle. My guess is maybe a bad carrier bearing or out of balance drive shaft to have vibration issues. Or perhaps just a bad install. How ever the case, I feel at ease, as it was varified by a proven setup in a running car.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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From: Suburb of Detroit
Got rid of the pan hard bar and the banana bar. Fabricated a "y link", 2" Dom tubeing tig welded. 3/4-16 hymes at the frame. The smaller center bar between the bolts of the hymes that you see is just a jig to keep the bungs straight that I had to weld into the frame
