Well, progress is going to be put on hold for a few weeks, time for me to get back to work after taking 2 weeks off. Sucks to work away from home, but it pays the bills etc.
Going to order the Hooker headers I linked to above, and a stacked plate transmission cooler to try to keep the ZF transmission running cool.
Thinking of the Derale 13402 cooler, if anyone has input on it?

Martin

 

Martin,

Very early Classic with a DAKAR body.

Here's a photo of the beast.

http://s1166.photobucket.com/user/zu..._0010.jpg.html

 

Looks like you have some very interesting projects going on there mate.
Some very tasty equipment for sure...

Martin

 

Well, I managed to swing by home for 2 days.
Had some other stuff that needed doing, but did have a good look over the wiring harness I got back from BP Automotive from this board.
I must say, after using Painless harness' on all my other swaps, his is FAR better!
The wiring is all wrapped, all wires are labeled clearly, and it is an overall excellent looking harness. I didn't install it, as I need to get the Hooker headers on there first to run the o2 wiring, but can't imagine it not performing as good as it looks. The fuse and relay panel is an excellent touch on his part, and even that is clearly labeled etc.
You would swear it is a brand new harness besides the old plugs that he has reused to save some coin.
All in all, worth every penny of the price, so anyone considering this harness, get it!
Will be running gauges for the motor in a gauge pod on top of the dash. Not the cleanest of ideas, but the Range Rover is not playing nicely for a custom instal of gauges without losing some functionality of other items.
am I correct in thinking I can remove the LSx oil sender unit, and just screw in the sender for the AutoMeter oil pressure gauge? Ffrom my reading, there will be no CEL etc doing it this way.
I will run oil pressure, engine temp and tranny temp on their own gauges for reliability reasons. Will feed the RR enigne temp from the OEM sensor to allow the other systems to know when it is at temp etc.
Looking to get it running next time I can take a week or two off work, so getting pretty excited now! Sucks to work away from home for a month at a time, but the job is paying for this after all....
Martin

 

Martin,

Thanks for the kind words! The rewire of the factory harness you sent came out nicely. Which worked out well for you because the factory routing is going to work so well with your LR! Watching the thread, cant wait to see it finished!

You will have to purchase the adapter from autometer for the gauge. You do not have to use the oil pressure sender on the engine. Just simply delete the codes in the pcm if they are present. The pcm controls the ground on the check engine light. So if you have to run a stand alone light just hook ignition power to one side and the MIL lead to the other.

Bill

 

Thanks Bill.
I already saw that it is a M16x1.5 (IIRC) thread on the OEM sender unit, just wanted to be sure there are no drawbacks to removing the OEM sender unit altogether.
Will run the CEL into the RR CEL on the dash too, at least that is the plan....

Martin

 

Well, ordered some parts I couldn't easily make.
Hooker 8501 cast manifolds (Jegs)
Auto Meter gauges for tranny temp, engine temp and oil pressure, along with a 3 gauge pod adn the metric adapter fittings for the oil pressure and engine temp. (Egauges.com)
The Derale cooler kit (Jegs)
And some new LR motor mounts for the Rover now I know the adapter mounts I made will work for sure.
Should be up and running next time I get a couple of weeks off!
Now to resist the temptation to fire it up with no exhaust and risk burning stuff while breaking a camshaft in (@2k rpm's for 20 minutes)
Only thing left is a weld in bung to install into the tranny oil pan.
Martin

 

Installed the Hooker headers/manifolds.
Here is the picture after the install. Pics of OEM truck manifolds are on the previous page for comparison.


Fit perfectly, and look to be well made etc.

Martin

 

Tranny cooler (Derale stack plate type) all mounted and plumbed in.

Hole for tranny temp sensor in the pan done.
All hoses routed, secured and connected.
Coolant hoses all done.


Started on the Rover wiring, seeing what is needed, what is possibly needed, and what is trash...


Now wishing I had got the gauges from Jegs instead of Egauges.com. The money saved isn't worth the slowazz shipping/FedEx.

Quick question, does the LM7 ECM need to be fully protected from the elements, or not? Thinking of mounting inside the old Rover airbox, as it is a perfect fit. If not there, making brackets to mount to inner fender.
Thoughts?
Martin

 

Upon searching (I am away from home), I cant find what downpipe would bolt up to the Hooker 8501 manifolds!
I just need a short piece of exhaust, maybe 6-12" to bolt into the manifolds to use while breaking in the camshaft etc.
Here is what it says about the downpipe etc on Hookers site
2 bolt exit flange configuration matches 2010 Camaro (also the same as the E-rod exhaust manifolds) which can be used with OE gaskets and fasteners if desired, for an OE quality seal
So looking for some pipes to use for break in etc.
o2 sensor bungs would be nice too, so I can check for codes etc when the time comes.
Ideas??

Martin

 

Bedding the new camshaft in. No exhaust besides the Hooker manifolds.
Started running on 5 when I fired it up initially, so I thought the game was over until I got new injectors. But then all of a sudden I started it again, and it was idling away!

Martin

 

Couple of quick ???'s for anyone that has the patience.
I had to tie the Range Rover into the LSx for certain things to function. The RR needs to know the engine is running, and the TPS position.
I am getting an intermittent fault on the RR tranny side regards the TPS, as well as an intermittent 5v signal fault on the LSx side. Bill (BP Automotive) kindly left a pigtail for me to use, to tie the RR into the TPS. I used all 3 wires on the RR TPS, which in turn means the TPS is actually getting two 5v signals going into it. Better to use just the LSx 5v reference signal, and then just the ground and return signal for the RR?
Now it's running, just a case of sorting out the little "niuggles" to make it drive like a factory rig again.
Cheers
Martin

 

Well, here she is getting ready to go to the exhaust shop for her new exhaust!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...er-trailer.gif
Unfortunately, when the exhaust was done, we could hear a tapping sound. Turns out the brand new flexplate I installed had 55 thou of runout, and wasn't even round! This in turn wallowed out the seal on the transmission, and actually welded a bronze bushing from the tranny pump onto the torque converter snout.
Transfer case and tranny are out, tranny is back at the shop that just rebuilt it before being installed. Hughes Performance flexplate about to go in, instead of the POS you get from a parts store. I got the flexplate with the motor, and it was still in the box! Guessing the guy I got the motor etc from just bought the cheapest POS flexplate he could get at the time. Only thing legible on it is "Made In Mexico".
Needless to say, the new flexplate will be measured for runout etc before anything else goes back in.

Martin

 

Work has been hectic, but progress has been made, of sorts...
Tranny had the front housing rounded out, so a 700R4 is going in there. My local tranny guy said he would build me a 700R4 to handle all the power I could want to throw at it, along with a torque converter, for very reasonable money. @$250 less than what I can sell the rebuilt Rover transmission for in fact...
I made a reluctor wheel for the front pulley, to make all Rover systems work reliably. The tone ring wasn't a stable enough signal in the end.
The reluctor wheel that is now on the back of the front pulley

Engine bay as it sits. Still some wiring to tidy up, then a top cover. Rubber boot for the CAI has been trimmed to make a straight line, before anyone corners me about it!

Martin

 

Martin, I've been wanting to do this same swap. I currently have a 98 TJ with the 5.3/4l60e and just picked up a 1998 P38 that has a locked up motor. I have an extra 5.3 on the stand that was meant for another V* TJ. I had a 96 RR years ago but I heard too many things about the RR computer hurdles. Do you have the templates for your conversion plates? interested in selling any?

 

I made my own motor mounts, using the P38 mounts to build from.
I did make an aluminum adapter to go from the LSx to the P38 trans, but got offered a 700R4 for an excellent price, and was having issues with the Rover one as far as front seals went.
I will be heading out to the shop tomorrow to figure out the R4 to BW transfer case adapter, and will keep you in mind when doing so.
The electrics are pretty much sorted, as seen in the video I posted IIRC. I think I still have the file for the miniature reluctor wheel, which is mounted to the front pulley, with the P38 crank sensor facing it on a custom bracket.
I can go through all connections via email if need be.
I would say it's perfectly doable, and the rewards will be worth the headaches IMHO. Once the first one is done, and electrics figured out, it's 90% easier for the second one in my experience with other swaps.
Shoot me a PM with your email addy, and I will try to make a list tomorrow, of the electrical connections, fuel pump, and so on.

Martin

 

Martin,

Just sent a pm with my contact info. I'm glad to see the 700r4 is an option. I'd like to use a 4l60e.

Jody

 

how is the truck doing since the swap? what mpg are you getting?

 

Been flawless, and not a clue on MPG.
A few notes, then I will add some foto's.
Use a 4L60E. The TV spring that came with the TV Made Easy kit makes the throttle pedal too firm. Contacted the seller, but all they suggested was the cable was hanging up, which it isnt. Will get Bill to make me the harness for the 4L60E, and then pick one up ASAP.
Temp is running at 210 degrees steady with the Bosch OEM radiator, which is OK, but an aluminum one is going in soon, and has been ordered. It is a direct replacement, so no reinventing the wheel is needed.
OEM crossmember gets cut and rewelded for a trans mount.
I will also remove the 2" lift I made (which was free), and install an aftermarket oil pan to clear the tie rod.
Adapter I made to go from the 700R4 to the P38 transfer case, which is offset on both front and rear, so no easy way around it.

Adapter shaft.

Pretty much done, a few months ago.

Motor mounts I made, which go to the P38 engine mounts.


Trans crossmember with the new mount that goes to the 4wd tail housing mount.

 

wow. thanks for the explanation and pics. There is a p38 not far from me. 97 with a blown head gasket. Looks relatively clean from the pics. Owner wants $500 for it. I am pretty dead set on putting together a 7 series bmw swap right but wouldn't mind swapping into a p38 or the generation after that for a winter time 4x4 vehicle. If you get a chance, I'd really like to know what type of mpg you are getting. That will make it or break it for me in terms of doing a swap like this in the future.