I'm about to start a swap for my cousin so I'm sure folks will be hearing alot from me over the next few months. To start off with, the motor I'm thinking of using is from a 98' corvette. Is there any big gain to getting one from a 00"-02" instead? I'll be tearing it down and sending the block/heads to be cleaned up, resealed, and balanced. I'm not planning on anything crazy because my cousins only used to 180HP under his foot. LOL! He wants a choppy sound from it so I'm thinking the easy route and Hot Cam'n it. As far as rocker arms, springs, lifters, pushrods, cam, timing chain, does anyone have any not so "run of the mill" ideas for this instead of the Hot Cam kit? It's a daily driver for sure. Opinions about going gear driven timing? He wants to use the Edlebrock ProFlo XT as the intake, undecided on trottle body, rails, and injectors as of now. Opinions? Does anyone have any experience with this intake on what it likes to be paired with? I'll be buying everything Current Performance has for the swap. Any input to this will be helpful. I'm still questioning a 6.0L. I saw one this morning for $800, and it's local. Does everything match up the same on that block as the 5.7 does?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by SleepNT.A-SwapNS.10
I'm about to start a swap for my cousin so I'm sure folks will be hearing alot from me over the next few months. To start off with, the motor I'm thinking of using is from a 98' corvette. Is there any big gain to getting one from a 00"-02" instead? I'll be tearing it down and sending the block/heads to be cleaned up, resealed, and balanced. I'm not planning on anything crazy because my cousins only used to 180HP under his foot. LOL! He wants a choppy sound from it so I'm thinking the easy route and Hot Cam'n it. As far as rocker arms, springs, lifters, pushrods, cam, timing chain, does anyone have any not so "run of the mill" ideas for this instead of the Hot Cam kit? It's a daily driver for sure. Opinions about going gear driven timing? He wants to use the Edlebrock ProFlo XT as the intake, undecided on trottle body, rails, and injectors as of now. Opinions? Does anyone have any experience with this intake on what it likes to be paired with? I'll be buying everything Current Performance has for the swap. Any input to this will be helpful. I'm still questioning a 6.0L. I saw one this morning for $800, and it's local. Does everything match up the same on that block as the 5.7 does?



Stock rockers, new gm lifters and some hardened pushrods will be fine. I used an ls2 timing chain with new oem gears. Some say the ls2 chain has a lot of slack, but it didnt bother me at all. He might have a cleanance issue with the pro flo intake. Have him check the LSX section over at the s10 forum. I have a build thread there that is linked in my sig. The hot cam or even the ls6 cam are good choices, most will say better cams can be had for the same money. I got most to all of my parts from current performance. The only real issue I am having is an electroysis issue. I had the radiator repaired once but did not test the system for voltage and it started to leak again (I was stupid for not checking it after repair). I also have any wire pinouts you might need for the swap. My swap was an LQ9 rebuild 4.030 with L92 heads. Its a beast and sometimes I need to park it and drive my slower car. most parts between a 4.8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0, 6.2 LSX engines are interchangeable. Not all but lots!
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2000 2wd Jimmy LQ9, L92 heads, Z06 cam and 2010 Camaro intake! build thread

GM 98-05 PINOUTS AND WIRE DIAGRAMS/ PM IF NEEDED

 

Thanks man. We just bought an 01' vette motor, to be shipped today. I'm thinking we're just going to go with the "Hotcam" and LS6 springs set from GMDirect. Seems to be pretty standard, and my cousins more interested in the sound, not performance. He's content staying below 400hp. We are buying everything CPW has for this build. I figure if would be the safest, smoothest way to go. Radiator, fan, and condenser; compressor bracket and compressor; H3 oil pan; Samson headers and motor mount kit. I'm also going to just have him build the harness for me. Still up in the air about the intake. It really just depends on what the motor looks like when I open her up. Too many unknowns until I see the thing. Any suggestions on the transmission cooler? Do I just neeed to get one separate and route the lines to the front of the condenser? Also would it be wise to go ahead and get tubular A-arms? Whats your opinion about swapping to the LS6 intake. I can find one for around $200. I'm already gonna ditch the EGR. Also I'm in the dark when it comes to getting the right injectors. If everthing stays stock besides the cam and springs, do I need to change them? Are there different injectors needed with the LS6 intake, if I go that route? Also would 2800-3200 stall be good enough for the hot cam or kinda overkill for daily driving? He's sticking with the 3.42's he has.

 

Get at least some tubular uppers. Some people get the stock upper control arms to work with some grinding. There was no way I could get my stock upper's to work so I bought a set of UMI tubular uppers, check my build thread to see the clearance issues I had. Much more clearance now with the tubulars. LS6 Intake will help the motor open up some with the cam choice. CPW radiator doesn't have a built in trans cooler you you're going to want to get one and either mount it in front of the condenser or under the truck with a fan.

 

Regarding the intake, the LS6 makes complete sense, especially if you can find one for $200 (that is a really good price). I would stick with the LS6 injectors as they are plenty for a mildly cammed engine. Also, are you going drive by wire or switching to drive by cable? What transmission?

Jon
PSI

 

Haven't really considered that yet. I figured I'd stick to cable. Were keeping the 4L60e, but with a heavy rebuild. Is there any benefit to wire vs. cable? I'm sure I can have it either way. I'd have to find a throttle body from a Camaro or Firebird if I use cable correct?

 

I'm going with an 01' vette motor, should be here today. It's going to be a daily driver. Stock 241 heads, typical Hotcam with LS6 springs, hardened rods, and new lifters. All fresh GM parts. I'm not trying to make over 400hp because that's enough for everyday drivin. If it has the LS6 intake on it, we're just gonna roll with it. Getting the block and heads reworked, as far as bearings and seals go. I'm just hoping I didn't buy a motor that was owned by a lead foot. Guess I'll find out soon enough.

 

That will be a great swap. And that vette motor should have the ls6 intake on it!! Subscribed!

 

Keep in mind that if you are keeping the DBW on this you will need the TAC Module, Pedal and TAC Harness. If you arent getting them with the motor, it may be more cost effective to just go DBC as the TAC Modules are getting expensive.

Jon
PSI

 

It's here! Was up till 4:30am diggin for the pistons. It does have the LS6 intake. Note takin on the DBW. I'm just going to get a new TB. I have to get a new MAF because it didn't come with the motor, so at least I can go bigger on all of that. The insides look amazing for the mileage. Some of the valve seals are bad, so the heads are going to have to be worked. I'm not sure if I want to bother with porting them, just get a set of 243's, or rebuild the 241's with new valves and of course springs, no port. It's so hard to keep from going big on this thing! I have alot of pictures, but I can't upload while I'm at work. Does anyone have any experience with anyone that I can send my heads and block to here in North Texas? I'm about 20 min. north of Dallas in Lewisville. My pops grew up racing with Kim Barr, but he's more super high performance, and wants me to let him build a damn race car motor. Lol! What's your experience with honing the block and just putting new rings in it? Kim B. says that he doesn't recommend it because he always sees problems with the rings coming loose. I'm not sure I belive this will happen on this build due to the lack of HP. He says to spend more $, buy pistons and bore. It's not really in our budget for all of that, but then again I want to do it as right as I can while I have it out of the truck. Would it be benificial to put a high flow oil pump in? I hear the LS2 oil pump, timing chain, and water pump are some things to go back with. I think I'm just going to go aftermarket on the chain though, because people say the LS2 chain fits loose. Does anyone know if I'm goning to have to notch the cradle using the H3 oil pan, or if I'm going to need move the trans crossmember? CPW says I wouldn't, others say if I don't, I have to pull the motor every time I have to pull the tranny. Lastly, dumb question, because I'm sure you do, but do I need a pulley puller to get the crankshaft pulley off? Forgot to get the bolt out before I pulled the motor apart. AHH! Rookie mistake.

 

Looks like I'm gonna be boring the block now. Number one looks like it was slappin the wall. Nice little groove. O'Well. So now the plan is to have Kim Barr machine the block and heads, so now I'm another $2000 in unexpected cost. I guess on a positive note, it'll be a complete fresh, balanced rebuild. Will be taking the block to him this weekend. Any ideas on pistons? Guess I have to find out how much he's gotta take off before I can get those. I hear you can go back with the OE rods. Is this smart?

* Lesson Learned *
Go with the already finished long block and buy the extra parts and peices that make it whole on CL or EBay. Or just spend the extra cash on a low mileage motor. FML

 

Here's the break down pictures.

 

I wouldn't do the Sanderson shorties...they looked like crap to me. I went with the BRP in frame long tubes and they are quality pieces and fit better than the shorties. They also make a transmission crossmember that works perfectly with their headers. I used the CPW poly motor mounts and plug and play harness also.

 

Yeah, my machinist said to try and fit some longtubes. I looked at some threads for the BRP, and it looks like alot of work vs. the Sandersons. I've heard they were a perfect fit, no hammering. ...? We're a way from that point though. Kim just called today, and said the block and heads are ready. Time to buy pistons. 3.905 is where they sit now.

 

It's back!! Check out the plexi covers I made. Just trying to make a decision on head gaskets.













Question, So Kim told me that I didn't need to change the cam bearings. I'm not going to be pushing much more than 400hp, but It's really hard to overlook this. I know that alot of people say if you put new bearings without a line bore, they will spin, and also, that it's normal wear for these motors. How bad are they? Comments please from someone that has went ahead and with some that look like this. Or comments from someone that was in the same situation.

 

FWIW- I have never had a bearing spin. Generally, for me the deal breaker is if there are any scratches that catch your fingernail you should replace it.(which can happen on installation) Some people clean them up with a scotch brite pad and have never had any issues at all.

For me, if I have a motor torn down that far apart I replace the bearings. I have never line honed unless there was a spun bearing that caused damage.

 

Is this something that can be done with the pistons in... safely? I'm at a loss for this one. I'm scared to replace, but will kick my own a$$ later if something messes up. I've had bad luck with this motor as it is. I ended up going with Diamond Pistons. Using the stock Crods with a 3.905 bore doesn't give you much to choose from unless youre boosting or changing to 6.125 rods or 4.00 crank. $1k set of pistons, and they don't have diamonds anywhere on them. Lol!

 

Here she is, after alittle painting, grinding, and polishing. Just trying to decide on .040 or .050 head gaskets, then the heads go on. I'm at about 10.5:1 right now because the pistons make 10.3:1, the heads and block both got milled some. Is 10.8 area alot for the street as a DD? What size gasket do I need to be looking for as far as the bore goes? It's bored out to 3.905, but I noticed when I made those plexi glass covers, that the old gasket bore is actually bigger than 3.905. Do I need to use gaskets for a 6.0 with a 4.000 bore? I may be looking too much into this, but everything so far has been built off numbers, so I wanna stick to that. If at .000 deckheight @ 9.240 the comp. is at 10.3, decked block and heads, I was told it'd be around 10.8 with the .040 by Kim. What would the difference be with each gasket?