E36 M3 swap
01-08-2013, 04:24 AM
#1
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E36 M3 swap I am very excited to have this car bought from a good friend of mine. It is a 1995 BMW M3. The engine is blown. I would like to put a ls based engine even a 5.3 or just ls1 with a t56.
I have some questions.
Who makes some nice motor mounts?
Who makes headers?
What is the best way to get everything wired up cleanly?
Any info on this swap would be great. I am going to be able to buy motor when i get my tax return.
Here are the pics
I have some questions.
Who makes some nice motor mounts?
Who makes headers?
What is the best way to get everything wired up cleanly?
Any info on this swap would be great. I am going to be able to buy motor when i get my tax return.
Here are the pics
01-08-2013, 05:56 AM
#2
We have a harness for your application. Prices vary on what the actual engine/transmission combo is, but prices start at $499.
Jon
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Jon
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01-08-2013, 06:43 AM
#3
OP, Go to Bimmerforums.com and go to the engine swaps, conversions part of the forum. There is 20 + posts and builds to look at. I'm currently putting a LS2 in a 97 m3 Sedan, so I have spent many hours going through every post. Lot of good info and probably answer most if not all of your questions. Good luck with the build.
01-08-2013, 09:33 AM
#4
Easily my favorite Beamer! In my favorite color! That will make an awesome project. If its truely as clean as the pics...inside and out.
Heck getting that for a good price would tempt me to rebuild the motor and just DD the thing. But with a nice LS motor in there, its gonna be FUUUNNN!! More pics and keep us updated!
J.
Heck getting that for a good price would tempt me to rebuild the motor and just DD the thing. But with a nice LS motor in there, its gonna be FUUUNNN!! More pics and keep us updated!
J.
01-08-2013, 01:52 PM
#5
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One of my favorite BMWs, and with my favorite wheels for 3-series! This is one of the cars I dream of doing a build on, but I'd likely lean towards an M3/4/5 being that I'd need to throw car seat(s) in the back.
01-08-2013, 03:03 PM
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OP, Go to Bimmerforums.com and go to the engine swaps, conversions part of the forum. There is 20 + posts and builds to look at. I'm currently putting a LS2 in a 97 m3 Sedan, so I have spent many hours going through every post. Lot of good info and probably answer most if not all of your questions. Good luck with the build.
01-08-2013, 03:09 PM
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By the way guys this car was running strong all the way until 215k which is what it has now until my friend downshifted to wrong gear lol. Pretty clean for 215k.
It does need a new passanger window because somebody tried to steal it but they didnt do anything but steal the cds. Damn kids.
It does need a new passanger window because somebody tried to steal it but they didnt do anything but steal the cds. Damn kids.
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01-08-2013, 04:01 PM
#8
01-09-2013, 08:56 AM
#10
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From personal experience, get an f-body ls1/t56 dropout if you can. I am using a 5.3 and 4l60e because they were really cheap. However I did have to source an f body oil pan, car intake, bought ctsv accessory drive (similar layout to f body), rework truck harness. All stuff you wouldn't have to do with a complete dropout. Also the 4l60e doesn't fit in the trans tunnel without a lot of trans tunnel persuasion. Then I had to make my own headers since all of the commercially available ones are for a t56. Sure I'm able to do the swap for under 5k but its a lot of work and won't be finished any time soon since I still have to make the dreaded driver side header. Just my .02.
Pete
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01-10-2013, 06:11 PM
#12
To save some cash you can source the steering joints and build your own steering shaft and use block hugger shorty headers (PM me for details). You have to put a third joint in the middle to clear the header. Don't be fooled, people will tell you this isn't possible. I am here to tell that it is and it works well- my car has had this setup for 4 years. I used the NASH motor and trans mounts, my own steering shaft, a mustang hydroboost, and block hugger headers. The other issue you will become very familiar with is the clearance between the drivers side valve cover and the stock brake booster. Nash motor mounts caused them to hit (hence the hydroboost). You may find others that will allow you to retain the stock booster. I have seen some people making adapter plates to use a Mercedes booster (190E I think) that may work as well. Be willing to look at every make and model for options on solving fitment issues.
For example: I decided to turbo my car. I used a passenger side truck manifold with a v-band flange on the drivers side. I can tell you that it fits when its flipped forward. I was told over an over again that NO FACTORY MANIFOLD WILL FIT. They do, you just have to be willing to figure out how.
In an N/A car I agree that its near impossible. Its really a matter of how dedicated you are and how much $ you have. My original swap was done in about 45 days and didn't cost me anywhere near the 10K everyone seems to think it will cost. The second time around (adding turbo, etc, etc) it has taken nearly 2 years and a whole bunch more money than the original build.
The best advise I can give you is this- look at every build on LS1Tech and Bimmerforums that you can. There are a ton of successfully swapped E36's. Each one has little differences that may solve a problem you are going to encounter. I see things that others have done and wish I would have done mine that way. I also see problems others had and like the way I solved the same issue on my own car (in a different way). I did not care if a part was from a specific make or model. My dad pointed something out to me when I started this project- Old school hot rodders used what ever worked. A Ford body with Chevy engine and Buick rear end, etc, etc. Make a list of what you like and start collecting parts. The swap isn't that hard if you have it planned out. Good luck and don't be afraid to ask questions!
For example: I decided to turbo my car. I used a passenger side truck manifold with a v-band flange on the drivers side. I can tell you that it fits when its flipped forward. I was told over an over again that NO FACTORY MANIFOLD WILL FIT. They do, you just have to be willing to figure out how.
In an N/A car I agree that its near impossible. Its really a matter of how dedicated you are and how much $ you have. My original swap was done in about 45 days and didn't cost me anywhere near the 10K everyone seems to think it will cost. The second time around (adding turbo, etc, etc) it has taken nearly 2 years and a whole bunch more money than the original build.
The best advise I can give you is this- look at every build on LS1Tech and Bimmerforums that you can. There are a ton of successfully swapped E36's. Each one has little differences that may solve a problem you are going to encounter. I see things that others have done and wish I would have done mine that way. I also see problems others had and like the way I solved the same issue on my own car (in a different way). I did not care if a part was from a specific make or model. My dad pointed something out to me when I started this project- Old school hot rodders used what ever worked. A Ford body with Chevy engine and Buick rear end, etc, etc. Make a list of what you like and start collecting parts. The swap isn't that hard if you have it planned out. Good luck and don't be afraid to ask questions!
01-10-2013, 07:56 PM
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To save some cash you can source the steering joints and build your own steering shaft and use block hugger shorty headers (PM me for details). You have to put a third joint in the middle to clear the header. Don't be fooled, people will tell you this isn't possible. I am here to tell that it is and it works well- my car has had this setup for 4 years. I used the NASH motor and trans mounts, my own steering shaft, a mustang hydroboost, and block hugger headers. The other issue you will become very familiar with is the clearance between the drivers side valve cover and the stock brake booster. Nash motor mounts caused them to hit (hence the hydroboost). You may find others that will allow you to retain the stock booster. I have seen some people making adapter plates to use a Mercedes booster (190E I think) that may work as well. Be willing to look at every make and model for options on solving fitment issues.
For example: I decided to turbo my car. I used a passenger side truck manifold with a v-band flange on the drivers side. I can tell you that it fits when its flipped forward. I was told over an over again that NO FACTORY MANIFOLD WILL FIT. They do, you just have to be willing to figure out how.
In an N/A car I agree that its near impossible. Its really a matter of how dedicated you are and how much $ you have. My original swap was done in about 45 days and didn't cost me anywhere near the 10K everyone seems to think it will cost. The second time around (adding turbo, etc, etc) it has taken nearly 2 years and a whole bunch more money than the original build.
The best advise I can give you is this- look at every build on LS1Tech and Bimmerforums that you can. There are a ton of successfully swapped E36's. Each one has little differences that may solve a problem you are going to encounter. I see things that others have done and wish I would have done mine that way. I also see problems others had and like the way I solved the same issue on my own car (in a different way). I did not care if a part was from a specific make or model. My dad pointed something out to me when I started this project- Old school hot rodders used what ever worked. A Ford body with Chevy engine and Buick rear end, etc, etc. Make a list of what you like and start collecting parts. The swap isn't that hard if you have it planned out. Good luck and don't be afraid to ask questions!
For example: I decided to turbo my car. I used a passenger side truck manifold with a v-band flange on the drivers side. I can tell you that it fits when its flipped forward. I was told over an over again that NO FACTORY MANIFOLD WILL FIT. They do, you just have to be willing to figure out how.
In an N/A car I agree that its near impossible. Its really a matter of how dedicated you are and how much $ you have. My original swap was done in about 45 days and didn't cost me anywhere near the 10K everyone seems to think it will cost. The second time around (adding turbo, etc, etc) it has taken nearly 2 years and a whole bunch more money than the original build.
The best advise I can give you is this- look at every build on LS1Tech and Bimmerforums that you can. There are a ton of successfully swapped E36's. Each one has little differences that may solve a problem you are going to encounter. I see things that others have done and wish I would have done mine that way. I also see problems others had and like the way I solved the same issue on my own car (in a different way). I did not care if a part was from a specific make or model. My dad pointed something out to me when I started this project- Old school hot rodders used what ever worked. A Ford body with Chevy engine and Buick rear end, etc, etc. Make a list of what you like and start collecting parts. The swap isn't that hard if you have it planned out. Good luck and don't be afraid to ask questions!
