Trouble with 1st gen LS1 install?
Trouble with 1st gen LS1 install? Anyone else have issues with fitting their LS1 into their first gen using Street and Performance mounts?
Car is a 68, originally a small block/4 speed car. I have the S&P plates with Energy Suspension motor mounts. Trying to get the engine to drop all the way onto the frame mounts (frame horns?), but it just seems to not want to sit completely in.
Are you guys enlarging the bolt holes on the frame mounts?
Help! Getting a little frustrated...
Scatter'd
Car is a 68, originally a small block/4 speed car. I have the S&P plates with Energy Suspension motor mounts. Trying to get the engine to drop all the way onto the frame mounts (frame horns?), but it just seems to not want to sit completely in.
Are you guys enlarging the bolt holes on the frame mounts?
Help! Getting a little frustrated...
Scatter'd
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
If the S&P mounts are like the Hooker mounts I used this weekend, they not only locate the motor front to back, but also raise it 1/4". This puts the mounts further apart than the stock locations, so when one mount bolt is installed in the frame stand, the other is about 1/2" out of line and the motor is sitting slanted to the side. I took my frame stands off, and egged out the holes (both on where they mount to the subframe and where the mount bolts slide through. That allowed me to slide the stands up about 1/8" each, and let the motor mounts sit right. I bolted the frame stands loosely to the motor mounts, and then used a drift pin to line up the holes on the subframe while the engine was still supported by the hoist.
You'll know if the adapter plates are raising the mounts by looking at the bottom mount holes- if the lower hole for the motor mount to bolt to is in line with the two lower bolts on the engine block (or sharing one of the holes), it's raising the mounts. The first set of plates I got were "stock location" plates, that supposedly put the bellhousing in the factory location. Those plates had the lower hole for the motor mount sitting lower than the other holes, but it set the bellhousing way too far back (crashing into the firewall even without the trans). The new plates moved everything forward 1 1/4" (perfect fore/aft location), but neglected to mention that they raise it 1/4".
You'll know if the adapter plates are raising the mounts by looking at the bottom mount holes- if the lower hole for the motor mount to bolt to is in line with the two lower bolts on the engine block (or sharing one of the holes), it's raising the mounts. The first set of plates I got were "stock location" plates, that supposedly put the bellhousing in the factory location. Those plates had the lower hole for the motor mount sitting lower than the other holes, but it set the bellhousing way too far back (crashing into the firewall even without the trans). The new plates moved everything forward 1 1/4" (perfect fore/aft location), but neglected to mention that they raise it 1/4".
From a different angle..this applies to my setup, and this may apply to you, as well.
ES mounts come with metal backing plates.
There are several examples in the Conversion section, where users of ES mounts are not using the metal backing plates, for the reason you have brought up.
After not using the backing plates, the engine sat perfectly within the stands (short & narrow).
^^^This, even though the ES instructions say to use the backing plates.
ES mounts come with metal backing plates.
There are several examples in the Conversion section, where users of ES mounts are not using the metal backing plates, for the reason you have brought up.
After not using the backing plates, the engine sat perfectly within the stands (short & narrow).
^^^This, even though the ES instructions say to use the backing plates.
GMag is right about the backing plates, But the reason you can get away with not using them, is that the adapter plates will act as the backing plate... so, as long as you have something acting as a solid backing plate, you well be OK.
So, you have the option to use them with or without the ES backing plate. Whatever works out best.
On my Nova I oblonged the holes about 1/4" and my engine dropped right in. I built my plates as 1" set back, but didn't like it so close, I drilled new holes in the stand 1/2" forward and I am happy with that location.. now 1/2" setbacks...LOL.
Just adjust what you need,as you need to get everything to fit...there is no rrule that you have to do it anyone way.
BC
So, you have the option to use them with or without the ES backing plate. Whatever works out best.
On my Nova I oblonged the holes about 1/4" and my engine dropped right in. I built my plates as 1" set back, but didn't like it so close, I drilled new holes in the stand 1/2" forward and I am happy with that location.. now 1/2" setbacks...LOL.
Just adjust what you need,as you need to get everything to fit...there is no rrule that you have to do it anyone way.
BC
