Motor Not Functioning With New Harness
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 413
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Update on the new crank sensor. Result is the same. The fuel pump does not activate. Any other suggestions on what to look for?
Do you have Key On power at Blue PCM connector, Position 19? Yes
Do you have ground at Blue PCM connector, Position 1 and 40?
Do you have ground at Red PCM connector, Position 1 and 40?
Do you mean can I actually follow the wires to a grounded surface? No.
Are the connectors above black wires indicating ground? Yes.
Is there a way to check those four positions for ground using a multimeter?
Do you have Key On power at Blue PCM connector, Position 19? Yes
Do you have ground at Blue PCM connector, Position 1 and 40?
Do you have ground at Red PCM connector, Position 1 and 40?
Do you mean can I actually follow the wires to a grounded surface? No.
Are the connectors above black wires indicating ground? Yes.
Is there a way to check those four positions for ground using a multimeter?
Last edited by Bilster; Apr 7, 2013 at 10:11 PM.
from me... 
Update on the new crank sensor. Result is the same. The fuel pump does not activate. Any other suggestions on what to look for?
Do you have Key On power at Blue PCM connector, Position 19? Yes
Do you have ground at Blue PCM connector, Position 1 and 40?
Do you have ground at Red PCM connector, Position 1 and 40?
Do you mean can I actually follow the wires to a grounded surface? No.
Are the connectors above black wires indicating ground? Yes.
Is there a way to check those four positions for ground using a multimeter?
Do you have Key On power at Blue PCM connector, Position 19? Yes
Do you have ground at Blue PCM connector, Position 1 and 40?
Do you have ground at Red PCM connector, Position 1 and 40?
Do you mean can I actually follow the wires to a grounded surface? No.
Are the connectors above black wires indicating ground? Yes.
Is there a way to check those four positions for ground using a multimeter?
My first inclination would be to either connect one lead from the DMM to the pin(s) in question, and the other lead to a known-good ground, with the DMM set to the 'continuity' test position (my DMM shows the schematic icon of a diode at that position). If you get an audible tone, then you can answer that question with a YES.
You might also be able to select 'Volts-DC' to test that - if there's a negligible reading on the meter (which would mean that there's just a tiny difference in electrical potential), then I would guess (and that's only a guess!!!) that you could answer 'yes' to that question.
You MIGHT also be able to select the resistance (ohms) setting on your DMM - Actually, DON'T do that. That will introduce a voltage from your DMM into that circuit, & the possibility exists that you could conceivably pop something.
So just STAY THE F**K AWAY from the resistance setting, unless Jon from PSI, or John from SpearTech, or (perhaps) the guy from BP says otherwise. (And just so you know, the 'resistance' setting should show the Greek "Omega" character - 'Ω')Anyone else have any feedback on this???
Last edited by V8Rumble; Apr 8, 2013 at 02:37 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 413
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Agreed. And they know that I will be purchasing one of their harnesses next time. I learned a valuable lesson about making a purchase on a part that is not your area of expertise. And that is you better buy a part with customer support. I didn't and now I'm sitting on a door stop.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 413
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Gave up and took it to a very reputable technician who specializes in automotive electrics and electronics. He got it running. I will post the details when I pick up the truck. Will probably post the truck build when I'm totally completed as I think I'm the only one who has done a street version of the 1997-2001 Ford F150 conversion. I know someone has done a desert/off road version.
