dvdswan build
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 141
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From: Seattle, WA
I haven't done the RTI but I have 12" coilovers in the front and 14" in the rear, axles are H233B (stock, housing) rear and Dana 44 front, it flexes pretty well but I'm building a play toy for all terrains not just rocks.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
I removed the battery tray, I will need to customize the fender well a little with a ball peen so the AC compressor doesn't hit it. other than that the compressor fits nicely, I need to switch the idler and tensioner pulleys which is no biggie. I'm really surprised no one has put a kit together for an LS motor for these trucks, it has been relatively easy on mods to fit it. maybe its because of the SAS IDK, I hope I didn't just jinx myself lol. now I can make the AC high and low pressure lines. I also installed the shifter for the tranny.
Last edited by dvdswan; Jun 30, 2013 at 09:29 PM.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 141
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From: Seattle, WA
so yesterday, i was able to get some truck time, cleaned out the pathy fuel tank because of a bunch of varnish and gunk that was in there, then prepped and sealed. now I have to install the fuel pump in it and it can be mounted, then I get to work on the truck tank. also got the pulleys corrected so I have my serp belt mounted, its always nice when a company sends the wrong parts for what you requested. other people's children I guess. trans dipstick tube is a work in progress, the bottom 2/3rds is perfect but I still have to fenagle the top portion and tack on the support that I cut off. mounted the condenser to see how much room I have for the radiator, still the same so now I need to look for a spot for the trans cooler which I already have, just need to get the front back on to be sure its protected for offroad use. I should be finishing the fuel lines this weekend to the manifold that will be nice and then back to the bed so I can get it done. there is a lot that needs to be done there.
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On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 141
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From: Seattle, WA
still not sure where I'm going to run it. I've thought of building a cover plate for the lower part of the bumper and placing the cooler behind it. if the rad doesn't work with the fans on it then it may go there and the rad in the bed.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 141
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From: Seattle, WA
so today I installed the front driveline with a new CV joint on it, installed the exhaust (now I just need to put hangers on it), install the front of the engine for fitment of the radiator and its tight. I'm still fighting the bed mount radiator. Also, got the bed set to the proper height and placement for installing the front bed mounts. I will be trimming to move the rad forward about an inch and need to figure out how the hoses are going to work, and I need to find some really thin electric fans now. .
holy cow thats a tight fit. ive seen a few rigs with the rad. in the bed not sure what the use for hoses but I would assume something like areoquip or russels braided lines.i was gona suggest to move it in the place of the ac condenser but im sure your gona retain AC.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Seattle, WA
its just sitting in there right now. it will be set about an inch forward when the original radiator tabs are cut off. I'm hoping that I can keep it in the front but more and more its looking not so possible but I'm not giving up yet. If I do put it in the bed I will use 1" ID aluminum tubing.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 141
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From: Seattle, WA
so I think I found some fans. I think I can fit 2-10s in the front lower portion of the condenser, and i'm hoping to fit 2-7s on the upper engine side of the radiator. the 10" is 1250 cfm x2 2500 and the 7 is 1100 cfm x2 2200. is that good? I think is decent after looking at summit and 2-12s is 2600 cfm. also I'm going to try and run them in a X pattern lower left with upper right, 1 set for high temp and 1 set for AC.
10" will pull 4 amps and the 7" will pull 3 amps.
and the best part is they're not $200ea. only $30ea.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Seattle, WA
so after some searching I found some other fans that had better performance and little bit more money. but the 10" has 2350 CFMs and the 7" has 2200 CFMs.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 141
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From: Seattle, WA
I received the cooling fans today and I think these will work perfect. but I need to build a enclosure between the radiator and condenser so the fans will blow through the radiator. they will be set up as pusher fans.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 141
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From: Seattle, WA
did some more fitting today. trimmed a old pathy grille for fittings as well.
the lower hose will fit fine to the waterpump but like the top hose connection I will have to put a 90* connection for them. Called Speedway Motors earlier in the week and they have tight bending aluminum tubing.
did some fitting for the oil pan as well.
the lower hose will fit fine to the waterpump but like the top hose connection I will have to put a 90* connection for them. Called Speedway Motors earlier in the week and they have tight bending aluminum tubing.
did some fitting for the oil pan as well.