Steering pump/box help from steering gurus
I agree with you on the OEM Stuff.. (for the most part). I had assumed that the fluid would never be colder than the engine coolant running temp, but at least it is keeping the fluid from over heating. I guess GM was thinking it would stay within a temp range.
The plumbing was pertty straight forward.. using -6 AN stuff and Adapter.. Steering box is a rebuild unit with Quick Ratio inners. (yeah. questionable what was really put in it).
But as you say.. if its working.. I'll drive it !
BC
The plumbing was pertty straight forward.. using -6 AN stuff and Adapter.. Steering box is a rebuild unit with Quick Ratio inners. (yeah. questionable what was really put in it).
But as you say.. if its working.. I'll drive it !
BC
Just one other thing to throw out. The escalades had a mechanism (probably pwm solenoid) on the rear of the pump for variable assist. Is that still there and hooked to the ecu? Is the ecu reading correct speed?
Ok so I got some shop time late last night and today.
1-Swapped the cooler lines-(cooler is about the same height as the top half of the pump reservoir)
2-Plumbed my gauge into the system. Running pressures are all ait operating temp:
Idle 750rpm- 125psi
2500rpm-150-160
Full lock 1400psi
3-this is now a reman pump. Was going to replace ft seal on the other pump but the bushing was toast.
Pump seems to be unable to bleed itself. Always groany and fluid is foamy. Took it for a 15min drive.
Something odd happened during the drive, near center sitting at a light it felt like I lost all assist for a second.
Couple other side notes:
This is an ebay jgc box supposedly. So history is unknown
really.
Wasnt able to take temps. Forgot my I/R gun at work.
I welded steering stops to my control arms to limit the tie rods from hitting the oil pan and I run a 275 front tire. Wondering if these stops are preventing the box from bleeding the air because its own stops aren't being reached?
1-Swapped the cooler lines-(cooler is about the same height as the top half of the pump reservoir)
2-Plumbed my gauge into the system. Running pressures are all ait operating temp:
Idle 750rpm- 125psi
2500rpm-150-160
Full lock 1400psi
3-this is now a reman pump. Was going to replace ft seal on the other pump but the bushing was toast.
Pump seems to be unable to bleed itself. Always groany and fluid is foamy. Took it for a 15min drive.
Something odd happened during the drive, near center sitting at a light it felt like I lost all assist for a second.
Couple other side notes:
This is an ebay jgc box supposedly. So history is unknown
really.
Wasnt able to take temps. Forgot my I/R gun at work.
I welded steering stops to my control arms to limit the tie rods from hitting the oil pan and I run a 275 front tire. Wondering if these stops are preventing the box from bleeding the air because its own stops aren't being reached?
The way I read it, you had your cooler plumbing right the first time. The return from the box was connected to the bottom of the cooler and the top of the cooler was connected to the return port on the reservoir. That is the way you want it so that air can escape from the top of the cooler into the reservoir and out the reservoir vent.
Did you try bleeding the system.. Try jacking the front wheels off the ground (on jack stands). With engine running. Turn the wheel lock to lock a few times or until the sound and foam stops.
BC
BC
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: N.Texas
In the bottom out the top, if I mis-read that I'm sorry.
I usually cycle the steering with the tires off the ground quite a bit before ever starting the engine. Once you foam the fluid it has to settle before you can get any more air out. The fluid height in the res will stop changing once most of the air is out. Then repeat with the pump turning.
Those pressures are on the money for what you are doing. I would say the pump is not the issue.
LG
I usually cycle the steering with the tires off the ground quite a bit before ever starting the engine. Once you foam the fluid it has to settle before you can get any more air out. The fluid height in the res will stop changing once most of the air is out. Then repeat with the pump turning.
Those pressures are on the money for what you are doing. I would say the pump is not the issue.
LG
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Verdad Gallardo Thanks guys. I did have my cooler plumbed wrong, ill have to keep trying to bleed this thing.
Had a local steering rebuilder who sold me the seal kit tell me to dump the ps fluid and run atf. I hate fluid debates, but he thinks it handles the heat/pressure better and its cheaper to boot.
Had a local steering rebuilder who sold me the seal kit tell me to dump the ps fluid and run atf. I hate fluid debates, but he thinks it handles the heat/pressure better and its cheaper to boot.
I call BS on him. Been running the truck PS pump, jeep GC box, no cooler for 3 years. No problems.
Thanks guys. I did have my cooler plumbed wrong, ill have to keep trying to bleed this thing.
Had a local steering rebuilder who sold me the seal kit tell me to dump the ps fluid and run atf. I hate fluid debates, but he thinks it handles the heat/pressure better and its cheaper to boot.
Had a local steering rebuilder who sold me the seal kit tell me to dump the ps fluid and run atf. I hate fluid debates, but he thinks it handles the heat/pressure better and its cheaper to boot.
I'm not saying he or I thinks the fluid will fix anything, just that either can be used successfully.
I'm running an 05 5.3 pump that came with the motor. Also using smaller pulley an jeep box in my 72 442, no cooler. Using standard PS fluid.
Maybe try another box if it feels like no power assist at times. They're only $50 around here, used with warrantee.
Maybe try another box if it feels like no power assist at times. They're only $50 around here, used with warrantee.
