I picked up a new F body pan, dipstick and pickup for $250 over the weekend. Painted it to match the motor color, Olds gold.



I removed the truck intake and test fitted. I'm waiting on my fuel rails now. I also need to modify the truck accessory bracket and move the idler pulley before I can install.



I put a coat of gold I ordered from Inline Tube on the valve covers. I should have scuffed them up a little more after cleaning, but oh well. These can be revisited at any point since they sit on top. I'll remove the TBSS oil pan once I get the engine painted, then install the Fbody pan.

 

Motor painted twice, once in the Inline Tube



Second in Duplicolor Gold. Now the valve covers match the block

 

Well due to some conversion hiccups, I didn't get nearly as much as I planned done yesterday.

My friend came by and we got setup to remove the Olds frame mounts and install the Chevy ones. This whole process was a PITA! I'm sure it can be much easier without the suspension installed, but there is no easy way to access these bolts. We got the Olds frame mount off only to find out NPD sold me 2 RH frame mounts! The only thing good about this they are only 15min from my house.

Setting up on jack stands to get ready for install







Installed the new frame mounts in a location most others used, all bolt holes used with slight overhang. I used the Dirty Dingo Double D adapter plates with the motor mounts in the normal position. On test fit the oil pan was tight angainst the crossmember and there way to use the setting. I pulled the motor and trans back out and we moved the frame mounts back in the crossmember. I moved the motor mounts up the 3/4" fwd position and it was perfect.

What I found out next is that while my friend was able to get his motor mounted bolted, I could not get my holes to line up. After zero success shift and prying, I pulled the motor back out. Looking closer, I see Energy Suspension needs better quality control.



The weld was so sloppy, I could not get the mount to sit flush. NPD was closed and we were in too deep buy now, so my frined just grinded down the welds. I hate have to do that to new parts, but I wanted the motor in.

After a long night the motor was finally in, minus the trans. I did end up with ample oil pan and firewall clearance after all the adjustments.



Placed a wood block between the head and the firewall to allow the motor to rest.



All done and back on the ground....

 

Looking good...Im doing a 71 monte and was wondering what your set up will be for fuel delivery (tank, pump?)

 

I'm using a tank from a '95 Chevy Caprice with new sending unit and pump.

 

Kind of forgot about this thread over here. Since my last post a lot has happened. I addend a t56 magnum, LS7 clutch, flywheel and PP. I changed my pan to Autokraft and my harness to Current Performance.

I have my floor and trunk pans replaced and my firewall smoothed. Here are a cpl pics

Floors before replacement..lol



Floors and Firewall done, ready to come home.





Installing Holley brackets



Changed tank from B Body to Tanks Inc setup



Setting up possible harness location



Got a good deal on some raw Doug's LS headers and had them ceramic coated



Did a battery relocation. I don't plan on taking my car to the track so I mounted the cutoff inside



Pushed the car outside to install the front end




New rubber all the way around Bridgestone S04 pole Position 275/35 fr and 295/30 r



Griffin LS Swap Rad and Spal dual fans

 

Had my first attempt at a fire last week, car starts and dies immediately. Had my computer double checked, VATS is disabled. Scanned and only code was for rear O2 not being disabled. I should have my ECM back Tues so I can begin to verify other things. I'll check the fuel pressure at the rails, MAF and MAP. I'll also need to verify power is still present to necessary fuses when key is in the run position.

In the meantime I continued intsalling my Vintage Air. I installed a billet firewall bulkhead so I can route the hoses behind the fender well. I started mocking the lines so I can clock them and get the lines crimped. I also cut a hole in the firewall to bring the ECM inside. The engine compartment looks much neater now.

 

Nice build. Why did you ditch the 4l70e? Im curious as I'm swapping a l33 5.3 into my 66 nova and I have a 2wd 4l70e.

 

Nothing other than the fact that I really wanted a manual in the first place. I was going to run the auto with paddles. I got a good price on a built 4L70e so I scooped it. When I had to buyer for my standalone controller and trans, I bought the magnum.