LQ9/TKO600 into 67 nova
LQ9/TKO600 into 67 nova Hi guys,
I have a 67 nova that is currently running a Gen I? 350 with a 621 bellhousing mated to a tko600. The car has a Keisler hydraulic throw out bearing. I am planning on putting in a LQ9 this winter.
I am wondering what I will have to change for the new motor while keeping the tko600 and Keisler TOB.
What flywheel and clutch setups will work?
Can I keep the 621 bellhousing?
Will the driveshaft length need to be changed?
Will I need a special pilot bearing?
Any thoughts on the hydraulic TOB, will it work fine?
I read this carcraft article,
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...3/viewall.html
It looks like there is an issue with the fact that the LQ9 crank is 0.400" shorter than the Gen I. How does this come into play with my setup? I know that early LQ4 engines had the 0.400" longer cranks, would this be a better option?
Sorry for the newbie questions
Thanks in advance
Joe
I have a 67 nova that is currently running a Gen I? 350 with a 621 bellhousing mated to a tko600. The car has a Keisler hydraulic throw out bearing. I am planning on putting in a LQ9 this winter.
I am wondering what I will have to change for the new motor while keeping the tko600 and Keisler TOB.
What flywheel and clutch setups will work?
Can I keep the 621 bellhousing?
Will the driveshaft length need to be changed?
Will I need a special pilot bearing?
Any thoughts on the hydraulic TOB, will it work fine?
I read this carcraft article,
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...3/viewall.html
It looks like there is an issue with the fact that the LQ9 crank is 0.400" shorter than the Gen I. How does this come into play with my setup? I know that early LQ4 engines had the 0.400" longer cranks, would this be a better option?
Sorry for the newbie questions
Thanks in advance
Joe
On the long crank LQ4, as far as I know, no manual flywheel will work. Starter wont be spaced correctly.
Part numbers and info you'll need for the swap.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-ls-motor.html
Part numbers and info you'll need for the swap.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-ls-motor.html
Gary, wow that is a great link. I have a couple of follow up questions:
So it appears I have 2 options.
1) Use the Sachs 0.400" thicker flywheel and Sachs clutch.
PROS: makes up the 0.400" difference allowing me to keep my same TOB geometry as I have now and also allowing full engagement of the clutch splines on the input shaft. Cheaper.
CONS: Must only use Sachs clutch? Heavier rotating mass? Clutch holding power? Removed flywheel dowels could cause imbalance issues?
2) Use my flywheel/clutch of choice (probably LS7).
PROS: Can choose from a ton of flywheel/clutch options. Lighter rotating mass? More holding power from clutch? Short TOB throw necessary for disengagement?
CONS: 0.400" difference from trans to flywheel. Splines on clutch not fully seated on input shaft. Must make adjustments to hydraulic TOB.
Would the hydraulic TOB adjustment be as simple as shimming it 0.400" from the front of the trans?
Comments?
thanks
Joe
So it appears I have 2 options.
1) Use the Sachs 0.400" thicker flywheel and Sachs clutch.
PROS: makes up the 0.400" difference allowing me to keep my same TOB geometry as I have now and also allowing full engagement of the clutch splines on the input shaft. Cheaper.
CONS: Must only use Sachs clutch? Heavier rotating mass? Clutch holding power? Removed flywheel dowels could cause imbalance issues?
2) Use my flywheel/clutch of choice (probably LS7).
PROS: Can choose from a ton of flywheel/clutch options. Lighter rotating mass? More holding power from clutch? Short TOB throw necessary for disengagement?
CONS: 0.400" difference from trans to flywheel. Splines on clutch not fully seated on input shaft. Must make adjustments to hydraulic TOB.
Would the hydraulic TOB adjustment be as simple as shimming it 0.400" from the front of the trans?
Comments?
thanks
Joe
