^ I re-read some of my posts in this thread. Too much blabbering on I didnt mean to confuse or dismay.

Short version is if your going to use a GenIV for a swap? Its WAYYYYYY easier to use an engine and trans combo that came together from the factory than it is to turn the engine into a stand alone deal and adapt whatever trans you want behind it. I didnt even know about the 4L80 e38 trucks so I learned something too. Thats what the boards are alllll about.

Worth mentioning as well that Holley does offer a sweet aftermarket ECM and harness solution for all LSx engines, 24x or 58x systems too btw.

 

The Dominator will also work with either cam signal, so 2x or 4x is fine on 58x crank. You can also control 90mm fly by wire with them, but you need another harness and pedal.

 

Just to close the loop on this: I have learned quite a bit since my first post.
I'm happy to report that in just a few months, I went from knowing nearly nothing about LS stuff, to now, barely knowing anything.
I did get my car running, with almost no hiccups, using the E38, 4l80e and T42, all from different vehicles. It works flawlessly, and runs, drives and shifts like a dream. I appreciate everyone's input on this, as it was great to see the different options that could work.
-Nick

 

That is good news. Glad to hear when a project all comes together.

 

congrats on your success!!

I have a 2007 L92 + 6L80 with no DOD with the stock cam, E38, stock TCM and no BCM, converted to standalone. The only wiring hiccup vs. other standalone Gen IV transplants was adding an additional relay to the harness to allow the main ECU to turn off power to the trans controller (TCM) I believe pin 59 is an auxiliary ground trigger, which can be used to turn on the secondary power relay for the TCM. For some reason it remains live longer than the TCM, so if power is cut from both at the same time, a fault code results.

I originally had one relay providing power to both computers and this caused a low voltage Fault code upon power down (ignition off).

I did have to convert the 4WD 6L80 to 2WD. This was done by a trans shop using a 2WD 6L80 output shaft and 2WD tailshaft housing. For future 4WD > 2WD converters, use a 2WD slip yoke from a late model 3/4 ton Silverado or other such GM truck. Don't let a driveshaft builder provide you with a TH400 yoke as Strange Engineering did for me. They are the right size (diameter) and spline count, but too short to engage properly, especially with the long sleeved rear seal on the trans output housing.

To those others with an L92, what oil pressure do you see at idle and hot cruise? I cruise at 80 mph @ 2300 rpm and see just a hair under 40 psi per my electric gauge and right at 20psi at 550 rpm idle.

I have not verified with a mechanical gauge though my electric sender and gauge are brand new from auto meter. I suspect the calibration is reasonably accurate.

thanks,

Doug

 

I see quite a bit more than that, and have an electronic gauge that verify's my accuracy. I see 31psi at idle warmed up and 63-70psi on cold start. Typically crusing, I'm around 40-50. I'm running 10w40 full synthetic.

 

I am about the same, maybe a little higher.

 

thanks for the info!

I've been running mobile 1 5W-30, per GM's recommendation. I only see 50psi at cold startup, though I don't think my truck ever gets below about 60 degrees here in my garage in San Diego area. In fact, I don't think I've ever seen over 50psi on the gauge. I considered that 50psi might be the relief pressure.

I'll hook up a mechanical gauge to verify and probably switch to 10W-40.

Doug

 

yeah i also have a e38 swapped 95 camaro, it works great, this thread makes it seem really hard to do but it was quite simple.

i have a t56, e38 out of 2011 pickup, harness out of 2008 truck, vette pedal, ls3 tb, and 2012 camaro calibration. 2012 6.0 truck engine, ls7 cam

i had to rewire the harness as the pcm was on the front drivers and i needed it on the rear pass, it all works mint. all gauges ect.

 

yeah i also have a e38 swapped 95 camaro, it works great, this thread makes it seem really hard to do but it was quite simple.

i have a t56, e38 out of 2011 pickup, harness out of 2008 truck, vette pedal, ls3 tb, and 2012 camaro calibration. 2012 6.0 truck engine, ls7 cam

i had to rewire the harness as the pcm was on the front drivers and i needed it on the rear pass, it all works mint. all gauges ect.

 

Glad it all worked out. While it took you a few months, it only took me about 15 minutes (I am a slow reader) to go from thinking I knew something to knowing there are others that know a lot more. The trick is finding the right nuggets.

I am about to embark on wiring for my LS swap. I have an 2008 LY6 (truck with VVT, w/o DOD), matching 6L90e, E38 with the matching BCM. The TCM is built into the 6L90e already making that a non-issue. Like you, I have read a hell of a lot about this swap and am not feeling too uncomfortable with the sparky side of things. I do, however, plan to incorporate some of the creature comforts available through the BCM to manage the cabin of my '88 Blazer, i.e, climate control, steering wheel controls, TUTD shifting, power heated seats (for the wife), etc. Sorry, guys, not a straight liner here, just a quality upgrade to an old classic.

On the mechanical side, and I don't want to open a can of worms, but I am going to swap out the oil pump (100K on motor), and I figure while I had that off, I am considering a cam swap as well. I plan to keep the VVT, and because of the ultra-low gearing in available in the 6L90 I am good on low end torque at the wheels, but would like a few more ponies at WOT, which is around 5500rpm. Like I said, this vehicle will not be operating on the fringes, it is going to be operated pretty much at nominal for all environments.

So one serious question is which oil pump is most recommendable for this type of install. I have read a few things but am still going to throw it out here. I have read that Melling is a better option than the GMPerformance due to manufacturing quality, and maybe continent. Any experience? I am not pulling 500 hp at 8000 rpm, just nominal operating range most of the time.

Heck. I hope I didn't Hi-jack this tread, but a lot of what was discussed here is right in my cross-hairs for this summer's build activities.

 

I would just put a GM pump back in it.

Sounds like a cool project