driveline angle at 8 degrees??
driveline angle at 8 degrees?? I just put my engine in hopefully for the last time for this swap in my 1969 Nova. Anyway, of course, when I mocked everything up the driveline angle I got was about 5 degrees. However, when after putting everything back together my engine and tranny are setting at 8 degrees. For what it is worth, when I try to raise the tranny to decrease the angle it hits the trans tunnel. Now I don't have the fenders, hood radiator support etc in right now. So my question is...am I ok with this angle considering the added weight of the body panels yet to be installed?
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I just put my engine in hopefully for the last time for this swap in my 1969 Nova. Anyway, of course, when I mocked everything up the driveline angle I got was about 5 degrees. However, when after putting everything back together my engine and tranny are setting at 8 degrees. For what it is worth, when I try to raise the tranny to decrease the angle it hits the trans tunnel. Now I don't have the fenders, hood radiator support etc in right now. So my question is...am I ok with this angle considering the added weight of the body panels yet to be installed?
1.)Your engine/trans angle matches your rear pinion angle within .5 degrees; if you're setting up a leaf spring drag car, you can run a couple extra degrees of down angle on the pinion to compensate for axle-wrap on acceleration.
2.) Your U-joint working angles are measured and calculated to be at least .5 degrees and no more than 3 degrees.
The 8 degrees you are reporting is not a problem for the operation of the engine or transmission themselves, but is more than likely going to put you outside the recommended U-joint operational geometry mentioned above.
Last edited by user 4737373; Nov 24, 2013 at 08:27 AM.
Are you measuring this angle with relation to the garage floor or to the rocker panel of the car? Level the chassis then re-verify the angle.
As stated above your biggest concern is with the driveshaft & pinion angle relationship.
As stated above your biggest concern is with the driveshaft & pinion angle relationship.
Any idea where to measure on the car to check a level chassis.
It doesn't matter what angle the car is sitting at relative to the ground (within reason). Just use a level so everything is relative to the same thing. It does have to be sitting on the tires or axles, these old frames flex too much to have it on frame stands.
Sounds like your engine is 8 degrees down in back. Your driveline is only 5 degrees down towards the rear. The difference there is 3 degrees, within the 5 degrees max I've always head. If it stays within those specs, you're ok.
Now you need the pinion angle up 8 degrees in the front to match the motor trans.
Sounds like your engine is 8 degrees down in back. Your driveline is only 5 degrees down towards the rear. The difference there is 3 degrees, within the 5 degrees max I've always head. If it stays within those specs, you're ok.
Now you need the pinion angle up 8 degrees in the front to match the motor trans.
Last edited by garys 68; Nov 24, 2013 at 02:32 PM.
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I am using stock Nova frame mounts with Prothane engine mounts and Dirty Dingo Double D. The transmission is a 4L60e. The rear suspension will be a leaf spring from Global west. The car will be a cruiser with minimal drag race use. The engine will be a 5.3 with about 350HP.
Any idea where to measure on the car to check a level chassis.
Any idea where to measure on the car to check a level chassis.
The other issue you are fighting is the discrete engine height at the front of the engine that comes with using the common frame stand/SB mounts/swap plates installation. In other words, there's no way for you to lower the front of the engine. This is one of the reasons that the new Hooker 1st/gen F-body/ 3rd-gen Nova mounts eliminate the frame stands entirely and retrofit later clamshell style mounts into the car. Using the Hooker engine brackets and 4L60 specific crossmember will allow you to stuff the engine and trans into your car at a 3 to 3.5 degree angle without requiring any cutting or beating of the floor panels.
