I need help with a big problem
Last edited by lsxRanger94; Mar 12, 2014 at 09:24 AM.
A dyno tune helps you with getting every last HP out of your motor but not even remotely needed for drivability. A tuner needs to be sitting in the car. Give a good tuner 1-2 hours in the car and it will be smooth.
Any engine codes?
I'm no pro tuner, but its possible your MAF is bad or very dirty and its running well when at WOT while using tables for fueling (OL), but running rough when its using sensors combined with the tables to determine fueling (CL).
It sounds like either a bad sensor, a wire short, or just a bad tune.
I'd start by pulling your PCM and ohm out all the wires to the important sensors: MAF, MAP, TPS, Crank, Cam.
Just get a long wire with a paper clip to push into the plugs and use your probe to touch the PCM ports. That's free and will at least eliminate the wiring. Shouldn't take more than an hour.
Are you getting any Knock retard?
If all your wiring is good, not getting any codes for bad sensors, and your not getting false knock from the cam then I would say its a bad tune.
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It sounds like either a bad sensor, a wire short, or just a bad tune.
I'd start by pulling your PCM and ohm out all the wires to the important sensors: MAF, MAP, TPS, Crank, Cam.
Just get a long wire with a paper clip to push into the plugs and use your probe to touch the PCM ports. That's free and will at least eliminate the wiring. Shouldn't take more than an hour.
Are you getting any Knock retard?
If all your wiring is good, not getting any codes for bad sensors, and your not getting false knock from the cam then I would say its a bad tune.
It's hard to get it perfect with the MAF as they don't work well at low airflow but you can get it really close.
Once you can verified the wires and swapped out the MAF and MAP with known goods. Don't buy if you don't have to. Just borrow from a friend for an hour. If that doesn't fix it the tune needs to be revised.


