davidc212k

iTrader: (3)

we hooked up the fuel pump to the battery ground and positive and no prime from fuel pump.

davidc212k

iTrader: (3)

installed new fuel pump and still no go on fuel pressure or prime.
There has to be something im missing.

davidc212k

iTrader: (3)

now on the C210 i dont have these two wires hooked up. i dont know where they go.

C Orange Power feed from PCM BAT fuse to PCM
D Red Feed from fuel pump and fuel pump relay to prime connector.

davidc212k

iTrader: (3)

well i connected the red wire for the fuel prime connector and gave it 12v and the fuel pump got pressure 55psi. disconnected that wire and now without giving it 12v the fuel pump is running !! w00t w00t.

all this trouble for nothing. lol
bp auto and merv u guys are the best at troubleshooting. i owe you guys. here soon PM me your addressed and i will make all this troubleshooting worth a surprise

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

That wire that you hooked 12v is designed to work that way. It's a factory wired Prime Wire. The PCM Wire from RED 9 is not working as it should, maybe it's in the wrong pin.

Orange Power feed from PCM BAT fuse to PCM

This wire is the 12v Constant Power to the PCM.

davidc212k

iTrader: (3)

So after hooking the prime wire. like you mentioned just now its only for priming it. i disconnected that wire and for like 10 minutes the pump was working fine without that wire connected. now back to square one. no more fuel pressure. we tried to hook that wire to 12v and no more fuel pump prime anymore.
as for the 9 red pcm wire. The pcm is getting contant power cuz its hooked up straight to the battery/starter wires that build in the psi harness.

now with the new fuel pump. I'm back to square one. No fuel.

I know like u said 4 wires. Its not rocked science. Its just weird that its still not functioning how its suppose to. On the grey wire in not getting any voltage. My battery is very low on power also. I have to recharge it after every 6 key turns.

something tells me this problem is something so easy I just can't see it.

ChevyOwner

Best thing I can think of here is use a DMM and trace the wires to make sure they are indeed in the correct place on the PCM connector.

A pinout of the PCM you are using will be helpfull for you as well.

davidc212k

iTrader: (3)

im using a 2002 ls1 PCM.
It wouldnt make any sense if the pins are on the wrong side of the PCM.
If thats the case, PSI sure did a number on me.

davidc212k

iTrader: (3)

i did the following test from my 95 Camaro.

#30 - Pink - 12v
#87 - Grey - 0v
#86 - Black - 0.13v
#85 - green/white - 0.01v (this number stars at 5v and then drops to 0.01v)

on the 97 formula its like this.

#30 - Grey - 0v
#87 - Orange - 12v
#86 - black - 0v
#85 - green/white - 0v

on the formula it has 0v on the black which is for ground? could that be the problem?

davidc212k

iTrader: (3)

well i tried to start the car again and we got fuel pressure again. around 55psi.

the brake booseter and the ls1 intake hose were open. so i decided to close them with my dads help and now it idles hard, do to the throttle body wire not aligned properly.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Not sure why 87 and 30 are switched on the second one. From what you just posted they are backwards, it will work like that, but not correctly. It should be as you posted what you found for the Camaro, and how many of us have posted it here trying to tell you how it should be.

Terminal 30 is the POWER IN TO THE RELAY, 87 is the POWER OUT TO THE PUMP.


A Relay is a switch, when it's turned on, it takes the 30, connects it with the 87, and makes **** happen. 85 and 86 are the two wires that make it turn on.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

It makes you wonder how much you have been messing with this when there is a DIRECT PLUG N PLAY Harness that is built for this and it works.

4 pages posted when you could be driving the car.

It makes me curious as to what they sent you.

davidc212k

iTrader: (3)

im going to switch those two wires. #30 and #87 on the relay. repin them and see how it turns out. the problem now is that the fuel pump runs when it wants to. after priming 3-4 times. fuel pump stops making pressure.
What i also noticed is that the fuel itself is dirty. its kind of orange/yelow fuel coming out of the fuel pressure gauge via the plastic tube thingy. time to take out the fuel and swap in a fuel filter.

ChevyOwner

switching #30 and #87 on the relay will make no difference expect to allow the fuel pump test circuit to work or not (if it has that circuit).

davidc212k

iTrader: (3)

today i will get a siphon pump to take out the dirty fuel and replace the fuel filter and hopefully that it helps the fuel pump have better pressure.

If that doesnt help. Im just going to have a technician fix this for me.

davidc212k

iTrader: (3)

i didnt switch the two wires.
I just got a diagram off AllData for my 97 Firebird.

It stated that #87 is orange and hot at all times. comes from the PCM Bat Fuse 15amp.
I will double check this after work and post it.

I installed a new fuel pump and it has fuel pressure sometimes.
and when it does it, it only holds pressure for like 1 minutes and after no more fuel pressure or power to the fuel pump.

i tested the fuel pump out of the fuel tank and it primes. of course i only test it for like 2 seconds. dont want to burn it without fuel. i give it ground and 12v source.

i also purchased a new fuel pump relay and test it.
i will post the diagram here after work.

davidc212k

iTrader: (3)

From the diagram below.
seems that 30 is one that goes to the fuel pump (grey wire) and 87 is the one that is 12v. which i just checked and the 87 is orange is giving me 12v. #87 switches it to #30 for the 12v to go to the fuel pump. which in my case thats not happening.

below 97 pontiac LT1


below is the diagram for the 95 Camaro.



So basically my wiring is correct and the #87(12v) is not switching to #30 to give the Fuel Pump 12v.

davidc212k

iTrader: (3)

well guys i have a quick and awesome update. SHES ALIVE, LOL.
i did the following. i basically wired the black ground wire to a different ground source on the chassis. soon as i turned the key i heard the fuel pump prime and got fuel pressure. thats permanent fuel pressure. lol. im so excited right now.
i will rewire that ground. now all i need to do is get my dual cats and a y pipe and hook it up to my stock remaining exhaust. get my registration sticker and pass emissions.

now so far the only issue i have is im getting some smoke coming out from god knows where. i dont have have the o2 sensors yet. im guessing the header gaskets are getting acclimated or the oil pan gaskets. i do have oil. mayme some oil leak somewhere or some wire getting touched by the headers. i will check all this out this comming weekend.

forgot to mention i need to steady the idle on the throttle body cable.

mantycarguy

I do computer and electrical diagnostics for approx. 60% of my time daily and can tell you that almost 50% or better is directly related to bad grounds. Remember that in 100% of all electrical circuits 50% is the ground side.Good grounding goes this way. Battery to engine,engine to chassis and or body,engine to frame. Google automotive volt drop testing and you will find how to better use a voltmeter to make your electrical work easier in the future. By the way, make sure to clean any paint or corrosion from the surface before you attach your cables or braided straps. Guess we cant blame the company that converted your harness after all. I can imagine they must see an awful amount of this sort of thing. Glad you got this fixed

davidc212k

iTrader: (3)

i wasnt really blaming anyone. i just needed some guidance. thats all.
thanks everyone for the awesome help. i will make sure all my grounds dont have paint and are clean.