Cap on radiator and a pressure tank with a cap?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 19
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Cap on radiator and a pressure tank with a cap? On my s10, the radiator needs to be recessed forward into the core support. Meaning I would need to cut a whole in the top of the support for the cap to be accessible, which I don't want to do.
My question is, could I run the unaccesible cap on the radiator and a surge tank with a radiator cap? I'm looking at a 2qt tank from canton. Would the cap on the radiator cause any issues if it did get hot? I've seen pics of how other people have put the cap through the core support, I just don't care for the look of it... And the canton tank looks pretty sweet!
My question is, could I run the unaccesible cap on the radiator and a surge tank with a radiator cap? I'm looking at a 2qt tank from canton. Would the cap on the radiator cause any issues if it did get hot? I've seen pics of how other people have put the cap through the core support, I just don't care for the look of it... And the canton tank looks pretty sweet!
IMHO, it wouldn't be a bad idea to keep in mind that each cap is a potential failure point, but off the top of my head I can't think of a significant reason not to do that... I've considered doing something similar in order to have a place to run my steam lines to. Haven't quite made up my mind on that yet.
TECH Resident
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 954
Likes: 9
From: Encinitas CA
add a large nipple to radiator (OD 1/2" or 5/8" - match to surge tank).
Run the large hose to the surge tank (which is mounted higher than the radiator). You can even weld closed the existing radiator neck. Or just make sure the inaccessible neck is high pressure than the cap on the surge tank.
This will allow you to fill from the surge tank.
Copy a high end German / Japanese cooling system. Lexus, BMW or Mercedes or Porsche all use surge tanks. Forgive me, don't know the late model US mfg.'s products as well.
Doug
Run the large hose to the surge tank (which is mounted higher than the radiator). You can even weld closed the existing radiator neck. Or just make sure the inaccessible neck is high pressure than the cap on the surge tank.
This will allow you to fill from the surge tank.
Copy a high end German / Japanese cooling system. Lexus, BMW or Mercedes or Porsche all use surge tanks. Forgive me, don't know the late model US mfg.'s products as well.
Doug
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 20
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Which 2 qt "pressure tank" from Canton?
I see they have 80-202 , but it does not look internally baffled. If that's the one... you will be filling the cooling system through a 1/2" pipe fitting (slow, but thats OK) as compared to pouring coolant in the radiator.
1. Connect the bottom fitting Tee'd to the heater return hose, in a continuous downhill run.
2. Run your steam lines in a continuous uphill run to the top of the surge tank.
3. Additional de-gassing and fill improvement: Weld the top of the radiator closed, add a 1/8" ID line from top of the radiator Inlet tank on the rad with a 1mm orifice, up hill run to an additional port on the top of the surge tank.
or
3. If you retain the plastic tank radiator... remove the lower seal (oring or gasket) from the cap. Connect a hose to the overflow nipple (this is now part of the pressurized system, use appropriate hose) add a 1mm orifice, up hill run to an additional port on the top of the surge tank.
4. Not only does the top of the tank have to be the highest point in the cooling system ... the "Fill" line must be the highest point... Dynamically, also to accomodate slosh - if not baffled.
mk
I see they have 80-202 , but it does not look internally baffled. If that's the one... you will be filling the cooling system through a 1/2" pipe fitting (slow, but thats OK) as compared to pouring coolant in the radiator.
1. Connect the bottom fitting Tee'd to the heater return hose, in a continuous downhill run.
2. Run your steam lines in a continuous uphill run to the top of the surge tank.
3. Additional de-gassing and fill improvement: Weld the top of the radiator closed, add a 1/8" ID line from top of the radiator Inlet tank on the rad with a 1mm orifice, up hill run to an additional port on the top of the surge tank.
or
3. If you retain the plastic tank radiator... remove the lower seal (oring or gasket) from the cap. Connect a hose to the overflow nipple (this is now part of the pressurized system, use appropriate hose) add a 1mm orifice, up hill run to an additional port on the top of the surge tank.
4. Not only does the top of the tank have to be the highest point in the cooling system ... the "Fill" line must be the highest point... Dynamically, also to accomodate slosh - if not baffled.
mk
