Hey guys, I have a 1963 Chevy II.. When I bought the car, it had a 283 SBC and about every other time I went to start the car, the starter solenoid would just 'click'.. Sometimes I would turn the key 3-4-5 times and just get the click, and then it would start? Sometimes it would start 3-4-5 times in a row without clicking? I didn't give it much thought because I was planning on an LS2 swap and I knew everything would be new.. I didn't know if it was the starter, solenoid, batter, cables, ign. switch??

Anyway present day, I have a brand new carb'd LS2 installed , brand new starter, brand new under hood mounted Optima red top battery, brand new 2ga ground running from the battery ground to the engine block, brand new 4ga running from the battery positive to the starter lug. Battery was charged to 100% showing almost 12.9 volts at the battery.

First hit of the key with the new motor and set up, click, click, click.. I hit the key about 5-6 times getting a click at the solenoid and then she finally cranked and fired... This motor has more compression and stiffer dual valve springs than the original motor so it turns over a little harder, but is seems to click more now than it did before.. I also noticed tonight after starting quite a bit, the starter felt hot to the touch and didn't crank as fast..

So.. My question(s) are:
* Could it be the ignition switch? From peeking under the dash, it looks newer.. Contacts and wires all look good and shiny (no corrosion) Not sure how to test this.

* Could it be the positive battery cable? Is 4ga heavy enough for turning this motor, or is it putting too much amp draw on the starter? Is this making the starter get hot?

* Could it be the ground running to the aluminum engine block and not to the steel frame? The engine is mounted on solid mounts, so I assumed it would ground the frame as well.

* Could it be the positive and negative cables are different sizes? I just replicated what was in the car original and custom made to length with crimped ends.

* Could it be my new battery or new starter are defective? Probably not, but..

I keep going back to the ignition switch, because its one of the only original pieces in the equation....? Is there any way to test these, or do they only work or not work?

Appreciate any help or things to try.. Thank guys!

 

From the sound of it, it could very well be an 'insufficient ground' issue. Easy enough to run a couple more connections just to check.

And just as a guess, I'd say that the 4 ga. positive cable might be borderline too small, but let's see what others have to say. (I've seen some fairly small replacement battery cables on the shelf at parts stores...) I have a trunk-mount battery, & I've run 0/1 (big thick cable) up front, just to be sure. With your battery under the hood, you should be able to get away with a bit more, I'd think. But I'd still have both cables the same size, personally.

And I wouldn't think it would be too difficult to temporarily hook another switch in parallel to the one on the column, just to rule that out...

 

Body to frame grounds and ignition switch as well as the harness connector
check that as I have had trouble there

 

Put a DVM positive lead to the hot side of the starter...the ground lead to a good ground. You should have 12+ volts. Keep the ground lead connected....now move the positive lead to the solenoid ( purple wire..not sure if GM used purple back then). Hold the lead on the solenoid and have someone turn the key ....the instance they turn the key...you should see 12+ volts only when the key is cranked. If you don't see 12v...your problem is before the starter, i.e., ignition switch...burned or damaged wire to solenoid. You could remove the solenoid wire and test it too.

I just replaced my ignition switch. $15 fix. I don't know of a way to test them.

You can also test the circuit at the ignition switch if you have the proper color codes for a 63 nova.

 

Check the bulkhead connector at the firewall. Those things are notorious for corroding and causing issues. Be careful not to break the little tabs that latch the connector together. Take your time and 'wiggle" it off while holding down the "latch" tab. I believe it is the left hand plug of the two. The right hand plug is the body/light harness.


T,

 

old cars are notorious for having too much voltage drop in the circuit powering the starter solenoid. Especially when the starter gets hot. Pretty common to see people using a Ford remote start solenoid to bypass all the ignition switch wiring/bulkhead connectors/etc. Basically just use the ignition circuit to latch a relay which then powers the solenoid. People like using the Ford starter solenoid for this, but since they aren't switching the actual battery current a standard Bosch type relay will work just fine.

Here is a good link with a diagram

http://www.novaresource.org/starter.htm

By the way, I've seen the "click" problem caused by dirty battery posts more times than I can count.

You shouldn't need bigger cables.

 

Did you clean the frame well at the ground between the battery and the frame?
Just check for voltage at the starter solenoid with an assistance. If it isn't close to 12V, you need to resolve the voltage drop. (as has already been stated)

Since you are hearing a relay click, it does appear the starter relay is energizing and closing. I'd think it is then not the ignition switch.

Doug