spark,fuel,no start
Exactly what pink wire are you referring to? Also, if youre losing power to the main ignition relay in the LS harness, you wouldn't be getting spark, so how do you know that you have spark? You need to hook the LS harness's ignition relay to the wire that originally went to the coil, but it will be a resistor wire so you should replace it with a regular wire at the bulkhead connector on the firewall. That is the wire that is hot in run and crank. If you have the ignition relay hooked up in the fuse box itself, you most likely have it on a secondary ignition that is only hot in run, such as the heater blower motor and radio circuits that loose power while cranking. To test it, you could turn the key to on, then bump the starter solenoid with a screwdriver and it should start.
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 408
Likes: 4
ITS THE VATS , injectors run off of pulse ,, to the negitive side , if you have power to the injectors it does not indicate the vats is off , almost every time the engine will run on start fluid , and not without its the vats , assuming you have fuel pressure . vats interrupts the ground on the injectors , not the positive , the positive is constant,, you can buy me a beer latter
Last edited by ijimmy; Sep 4, 2014 at 05:59 PM.
ok.I spayed starter fluid into the TB and it ran for a few seconds.Thats how I know I got spark.The pink wire I refer to is the pink wire on the injector.I do believe like you say I had the switched power to a wire that shut off on starting(Like radio,blower)So I ran a hot wire right from the battery and the noid light flashed twice.I then pulled the fuel rail and hit the key again.No fuel from the injectors.I pulled the injectors and fuel pored from the rail.I'm going to soak them overnight in seafoam like one of you suggested.I have to find a power on when key on in my harness.What do you suggest?Also I checked all my grounds.I was very careful to scrape off paint and clean all the connections when I put them on.I also grounded the body to motor,frame to motor and body to frame.I tried the noid light one more time and it did 2 flashes then a break then 1 flash.almost like a miss.But no fuel passed the injectors.Would this be a vats issue?Thanks again guys you are keeping me sane........for now
If it is VATs, then it WILL run for a second or two, that is if your injectors are not stuck. Clean them and then try it. Your noid light test could be a VATs thing, but I wouldn't concentrate on that until you know for sure the injectors are spraying.
As for the power wire, hook it to the wire that originally went to be coil, just make sure its a regular wire and not a resistor wire because if it is, you wont be getting a full 12v to the ignition relay.
As for the power wire, hook it to the wire that originally went to be coil, just make sure its a regular wire and not a resistor wire because if it is, you wont be getting a full 12v to the ignition relay.
It was the VATS! it was the VATS!Thanks ijimmy
Now it wont keep running.It starts and stalls almost immediately.Pulled the fuel rail and it squirts at the injectors.After checking with the noid light and confirmed injector pulse.I hit it with starting fluid and it runs for 2-3 seconds.I discovered a fuel leak and went to pick up a fitting.I'll try again tomorrow.anything else I should look at?
Now it wont keep running.It starts and stalls almost immediately.Pulled the fuel rail and it squirts at the injectors.After checking with the noid light and confirmed injector pulse.I hit it with starting fluid and it runs for 2-3 seconds.I discovered a fuel leak and went to pick up a fitting.I'll try again tomorrow.anything else I should look at?
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Verdad Gallardo bought one of those sleabay vat delete and I now get a fire then off.Also power to the OBD port and my lights even when the key is off.Had a fuel tank leak and had to drain the tank and have it fixed.I just got back to this this morning
12 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2014
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From: 217
OBD2 port is hot all the time and typically the same circuit as cigarette lighter. I would check power circuits to engine harness to make sure your Keyed hot is hot during crank and run and 12+ is hot all the time. Also check your fuel pressure(58psig).
got a fuel pressure gauge and wasnt getting any reading.So I disconnected the line to the fuel rail and it kinda dribbled out.Disconnected the fuel filter at the tank and blew air through.All clear.Cleaned the filter.It was all clean.Drained the tank(Again)and dropped it.Pulled the pump and did a bench test in a bucket of water.Came out like a low faucet on your sink.It really should blast.Wasnt to pleased.Got much better from my Holley red pump on my carbed big block.I think the pump is just tired.It worked when pulled from the running TA I got the motor and trans from.Just ordered a new pump.Cant hurt.
