motor mounts 71 chevelle
 

I'm looking for motor mounts that will drop the motor closest to the crossmember, mainly to give me enough space to not have to cut my tunnel for the 4l80e if possible and still have a good drivetrain angle. I looked into the dirty dingo mounts but they say they raise it about a 1/4" . I have the revised Holley pan so I don't think I will have to worry about the steering issue. Any help would be great. Thanks.

I am not sure that anyone knows exactly what you need. The LS engines have a deep skirt block that actually makes it more difficult to package in older cars that people realize. You will definitely want the engine as low as possible. If the Dirty Dingo mounts only raise it a 1/4" then thats pretty good. I'd try those and see how much room you have between the pan and the crossmember and modify the mounts as needed.

Andrew

The holley pan hangs less below the cross and doesn't hit tie rods (at least not as much as other I don't think), but does it actually sit any higher in the area immediately over the crossmember? If not then using it won't let you lower the more than any other pan and one mount will be as good as the next. I'm not saying that's the case, just something to look into before spending money.

The relevant measure is where is the crank centerline located compared to a SBC. I think the Holley pan allows you to go as low as possible compared to other pans.

Andrew

Use the new 302-2 Holley oil pan. Use generic 3/8" adapters like the ones at the link below for your sbc motor mounts. Section your sbc frame brackets to effectively shorten the overall height by 1/4". Just cut and reweld them together. Finally redrill your cross member moving the mount rearward. This lowers the engine because of the compound angle of the crossmember. You may want relocate the mounts first before modifying the frame bracket to see how much you gain before modifying the frame brackets. This means the motor goes in and out a few times unfortunately.

Use this adapter but redrill the crossmember. Install engine, mark holes and redrill.
https://www.holley.com/products/ls_p...parts/12622HKR

This will get the oil pan within 3/8" from cross member and minimize driveline angle issues. I ran into the same issues with all the adapters raising the motor too much. Bolt in options are convenient but not best suited in this case.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...8-800x600-.jpg

What tranny crossmember? Which sbc mounts are you using, 307 or 350? Shoot me a phone number, I'd be happy to talk it over with you.

This is about as low as I could get on a budget...(72 A-body)

I used the factory SBC safety mounts, and the original stands...

I bought the "cheap" Trans-Dapt 1" set back plates...

I used a 4l60e...it was tight, but just a little massage with the BFH and it was perfect...



https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...4b7fc3f1cb.jpg


F-body pan...



https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...63ade0f840.jpg




https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...54aa5d5a93.jpg

I wish Holley would figure out this swap all the way...

Andrew

A Un-Notched F-Body oil pan will fit. But it will be tight going in and coming out. I tried it before. You will have about 3/8" to 1/2" clearance between the oil pan and Cross member. Also about the same between the firewall and the right rear head.

Putting it in and removing it was only possible without the trans (T56) as I almost had to have the engine/trans at a 45 degree angle and then had problems moving it around to sit correctly.

I would strongly recommend the Holley 302-2 or any other swap pan. I have gone through a F-Body, Notched F-Body, CTS-V and now a Holley 302-2 pan on my 71 A-Body.

BC

I used these trans dapt plates with the holley pan, I'm as close as possible without touching the frame. Using standard poly motor mounts also. No floor modification needed for the 80E BUT I also have a HPI Customs frame kit with trans crossmember it probably has a lot to do with the extra clearance.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Trans-Dapt/969...d=#moreDetails

I used the Dirty Dingo double D mounts with an F-body pan on my 64. I really can't see it getting any lower then it is with this setup.

Thank you all for the replies I have been busy and forgot that I posted this. I do have the Holley revised pan -2 I will try the generic 3/8" adapter that picture has the pan very low which is where I would like it.

Ok so I'm going to try this setup I like how close the pan is to the crossmember. I will be running the 302-2 Holley pan. Just so I have this right I need to take a 1/4" out of each pedestal or a total of a 1/4 so 1/8 off of each. What Would you recommend for tranny crossmember? I was going to try and use stock but if not I could probably have my buddy make something.

For the transmission crossmember, that will largely depend on the transmission you choose. Most of the time you can get away with modifying a stock crossmember. No matter what you do, you will want to position the back of the transmission as high in the tunnel as possible. You will be limited by the slip yoke to floor contact, but all you need is a 1/4".

Andrew

I used the hooker mounts and headers. I had to fabricate my own transmission crossmember. Headers and exhaust would not clear on my 1971 chevelle. I am using a
T56. I did not have to cut the tunnel but massage with a BFH. For me, exhaust clearance was the biggest issue. I am using an F-body pan. Tight fit but I like it

As Bczee said, and as I would agree with, the f-body pan does fit, BUT it make the clearance between the heads and the firewall really tight. This isn't so much a problem when driving, but if the transmission needs to be removed (to replace the clutch, for instance) the passenger side head will hit the firewall when the engine is tilted down. Again, this may not bother some people, but it was a deal breaker for me, which is why I used the AutoKraft pan (the Holley pan was not available when I did my swap).

Andrew

Yeah I will need all the space I can get. I'm running the 4l80 and a t76mm . I'm having my buddy weld up the exhaust for me.